Athearn RDCs and DCC

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ICG/SOU

ICG/SOU

HO & O (3-rail) trainman
Hi,

A fellow brought in a couple of these to the shop in order to put DCC in. I took the shells off, and one had a regular gold Athearn can motor, with older driveshafts and rubber bands. The other had a Jet motor with the same drive assembly. He wants to repower (had two used Mashimas with flywheels) both, and just run a mobile decoder. He does want lights and such.

What I am looking for is if there is a more efficient drive system (rubber bands seem so 1960s), or if I should just leave it alone. Also, are there any interior kits for them (doesn't have seating or anything).

Thanks in advance.
 
Putting DCC in one of these rubber band powered drives may be a waste of time. Unless he wants to spring for an Ernst gearing set for the RDC, IIRC is still available from Walthers, I wouldn't bother.

As for interiors I can't remember if one is available or not, but I'm not sure there would be room for one anyway, around the drive components.
 


RE: RDC RE-Power

Hi,i just finished several RDC's converting from Rubber band drive.I used 2 axel Bloomberg Trucks and Athearn High Permformance Motor.You have to do a little milling to the frame,Cut the shaft stands off and drill and tap a hole for the Truck pins.As for the interior i took a Life-like Passenger car and copied the sillouettes and Put it on the inside of the Windows.They run very nice and don't run 150 mph,They will also pull at least 4 to 5 other dummy cars without any loss of performance. Harold
 
You have a few options.

1. Remove the rubber bands and install the Ernst gear kit, the gold can should be ok for DCC, replace the jet with a gold can if at all possible. You may also want to replace the gold can with the more recent version with flywheels.

OR

2. Replace the trucks with ones that have gear towers on them, and replace the shafts for the rubber bands with an actual drive shaft, again replace the motor with the more recent version with flywheels for better performance.

OR

3. Replace the drive completely.

From what I've read, the Athearn RDCs may be too short (prototype is 85'). If I were you. I'd get the Proto 1000 model.
 
Thanks. I'm sourcing the parts right now, and will let him know how much it would be to get them going. I'll likely recommend after seeing all the expense that getting a new one from Proto would be better.
 
Yep, the Proto model looks better, and runs better as well. I'm trying to think of an excuse to get one (I model the present day)
 
I'd go with the Proto as well, wish I never parted with my two.
I'm looking for a couple undec's for my shortline now.
Eric, maybe that's your excuse you need?
 
I do prototype modeling (to some extent).

I need to figure out which museums/tourist roads have them, and which paint schemes they're in.
 


If you can't find what you need from NWSL, Hollywood Foundry in Australia makes similar powered trucks called the Bull Ant but has more choices for configurations such as wheel sizes and wheelbases (but I think they also cost a bit more as well)
 
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