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So yeah, started laying some track tonight; got the mainline down. And hrmmm, pieces are not fitting like they did in the wonderful software diagram.
I even went so far as to pin all the snap track pieces in place, make each of them nice and flush and still fall short under a inch on both sides.
Has this happen to anyone else, or did I just make rookie mistake?
I can fix it, not too worried about that. I got plenty of Flex track to play with. Just running the snap pieces down to get a good idea for the trackbed placement. Will more than likely use flex on the entire layout (excluding the turn outs) Just leaves me scratching my head...
Oh 1 more quick question, I got some Atlas turnouts #4's and#6s code100. Its a no-no to solder these correct?
Derek
Hi Derek,
I've been involved in HO for many years and always used flex track even back when it wasn't very flexable, the 50's to about the 70's.
As your finding out, it one thing to have a template printed out for you and another things to get things to fit as the template proclaims it will. That's where using Flex track
really comes in handy and makes things a lot easier especially for minor adjustments.
There are several things you need to be aware of in laying your track. If your using cork or similiar road bed that will help you keep your spacing so tracks don't get too close together but if your laying at ground level near stations or industry spurs be sure to watch your clearances between rail to ensure enough space for the Loco's as the cabs take more width in many cases than the cars.
In fastening your flex track to the corck or even th board or ground level material be sure to only have the brad just barely touch the top of the ties so as not to through rail spacing off which will happen if the brads are pressed/tapped in too much as it forms a V of the tie/s and pulls the rails together too much.
Your rail joints, ends of the rails, should be just slightly apart, about a 1/16th" to allow for expansion contraction and the same goes for switches. I would say if your going to solider any tracks at the joint only two 3' sections together and not every joint.
I would leave the switches unsolidered and just ensure tight rail joiners are used where you want them or you can even leave gap if you want to have a segrated area or block.
Hope this helps
Derek, it's not uncommon for the real track to be off an inch or so from what the softwar says. If you had a pefect workd, where every track measuered exactly what was in the program database, everything would fit. In the real worl, some track is a a few millimeters too long or short. Layout enough track and you come up too short or long. You are also not laying track with 100% perfection in curves and straights, so that also has an effect. Just be prepared to cut a litte off or add a little, here and there, since you're building a big jigsaw puzzle, and all the pieces aren't diecast and perfect.

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