Anyone Need a Bridge?


funnelfan

Member
Work and other things conspired to not allow me to do anything model railroad wise for the past two weeks. And worse yet, I've have some projects all ready to go during that time that I really wanted to do. So finally I get a good day off work and tore into the first project with zeal. I took one of the new Trainman bulkhead flatcars and added a pair of Details West "Trombone" cut levers, replaced the accumate couplers with Kadee Whisker couplers and weathered the heck out of it. I then had a package of Rix Bridge Beams that I assembled into a load. I placed the car in a friend's train while at the club last night. The car preformed flawlessly.
There are still some things to do. In fact I I'm looking for something the represent flat steel banding that would be durable. I really will need that for the structural steel load I'm going to make for the TTX Bulkhead flat next.
 
...In fact I I'm looking for something the represent flat steel banding that would be durable. I really will need that for the structural steel load I'm going to make for the TTX Bulkhead flat next.

Have you thought about using blackened unwaxed dental floss? It flattens quite easily, and gives the effect of flat steel tiedown straps well. It can be colored with a magic marker, sharpie or paint pen.
 
Hey Ted, great loads!
I have some extra beams I was going to sell at the big train sale and show this weekend in Winnipeg, I think I'll pull them out now! :D
I agree with the floss straps, I've also used thin styrene strips as well.
 
Ted, maybe some thin black pinstripe tape? Obviously, don't take off the adhesive backing... If it's too wide, and you have a steady hand (or a chopper), you could cut it in half, lengthwise.
 
yep, one bridge here please, and some salty crackers while you at it :D
looks nice.

replaced the accumate couplers with Kadee Whisker couplers

why? were acumate's bad? i have no experience with them but from the description on their site sounds like top of the line coupler.
 
... were acumate's bad? i have no experience with them but from the description on their site sounds like top of the line coupler.

Many modelers replace the factory-installed knuckle couplers (Accumates, McHenrys, whatever) and replace them with metal Kadee's because they are less likely to break while pulling a heavy load. As for me, I keep the factory couplers on until one of them fails - then I replace both couplers on that car with Kadee's.
 
I do the same as Ken. No point in tossing out perfectly good couplers, especially considering my average train length is 10 cars. I've used 1/8" artist's crepe tape for strapping material. It comes in black, it stretches nicely, and holds with no additional glue.
 
Many modelers replace the factory-installed knuckle couplers (Accumates, McHenrys, whatever) and replace them with metal Kadee's because they are less likely to break while pulling a heavy load. As for me, I keep the factory couplers on until one of them fails - then I replace both couplers on that car with Kadee's.

I use metal kadees on all of my equipment because they perform better. With plastic couplers, they may uncouple on S-curves or tight curves. If the train is too heavy, the shank of the coupler on the first car will twist and uncouple the car, or the coupler head would break off. If you push your cars or if your cars run away or have a hard coupling, those plastic couplers will break.

Metal Kadees don't do any of that. Kadees also come in many different shank lengths for function, and many different heights for the coupler head to compensate for coupler height issues on some cars. They also make scale head couplers, and whisker couplers for equipment that won't take regular centering springs.

Accumates are just junk. The coupler's fingers and the thumb are seperate pieces that are NOT connected. They are 2 pieces that sit in the coupler pocket and each one has a centering mechanism. The 2 parts are held together by friction. If I used a plastic couplers, I'd use the sprung McHenrys (the ones with the finger spring break too easily) or EZ-mates.
 
Kadees also come in many different shank lengths for function, and many different heights for the coupler head to compensate for coupler height issues on some cars.

Accumates are just junk. The coupler's fingers and the thumb are seperate pieces that are NOT connected. They are 2 pieces that sit in the coupler pocket and each one has a centering mechanism. The 2 parts are held together by friction. If I used a plastic couplers, I'd use the sprung McHenrys (the ones with the finger spring break too easily) or EZ-mates.

that choice is my only consern with kadees. price is not trivial and there is quite a possibility of "crap this is not the right height/length!"

as far as acumates, aha so thats what those are, i had 2 piece coupler on one of the genesis cars and was wondering what it is. it did seem like it is going to give some trouble
 



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