An idiot in search of DCC enlightenment...

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T

The_Limey

Member
Hi all from the U.K

despite being a professional model maker the ins and outs of RR modelling are alien territory, so please be gentle. Ask me about painting an N gauge figure to look real and I am your man, but mention electricity and I pass out. So, with that said:

I am planning a 15 foot end to end layout in N. Essentially two yards with two lines between them. Nothing fancy, no loops etc.

I am using Kato Unitrack and would like to be able to run more than one loco at a time, and so I assume DCC is the way. I don't mind switching the turnouts etc using the Kato switches as they are so to speak. My only 'must' is that I can move several locos at the same time if required.

So, can anyone give me some advice on what I need to do to achieve this?


Thanks in advance guys...

Mark
 
That is easy. Simply get a DCC starter set, such as a Digitrax Zephyr or NCE Powercab. Connect the power output leads to the track power wire leads on the Unitrack. Make sure the Unitrack turnouts are set for non power routing, and have a blast. Programming locos to different addresses so you can operate them independently is a little more involved, but not much.
Easiest way is to program in ops mode on the layout, changing cv1 to something other than 3. Make sure the power is on to the track before doing this, and only have one loco at a time on the layout.
 


So tell me if I have this correct...

If I set them to non-power routing the whole turnout is live?

If so, I have that sorted.


Now, assuming that I use the blue Kato switches, but I don't have them plugged into the side of a Kato DC controller, how would I power them?

Sorry to be so dumb, but as I say I am new to this.
 
The_Limey said:
I am planning a 15 foot end to end layout in N. Essentially two yards with two lines between them. Nothing fancy, no loops etc.

I am using Kato Unitrack and would like to be able to run more than one loco at a time, and so I assume DCC is the way. .... My only 'must' is that I can move several locos at the same time if required.

So, can anyone give me some advice on what I need to do to achieve this?
Click to expand...
With no reversing loops, turntables, or wye tracks this is easy. When connecting the track add extra places to feed power in. When done connect all the track feed wires in parallel (all the same side rail together). Buy a DCC starter system and connect it according to the directions that come with it. Basically that will be to connect the two wires from the DCC system to the two sets of track feeder wires (one for each rail). Connect the power to the DCC system, plug in a throttle, and it should be ready to go.

A DCC ready locomotive will be programmed to channel #3. Set the Throttle to channel #3, put the loco on the track, and it should be ready to test out the track.

If you are installing your own decoders into the locos that will be a bit more involved. Each one will have to have its own channel number to allow independent operation. This is called programming the decoder. There will be directions for doing this with whatever DCC system you buy, and supplemental informaiton with the decoders themselves.
 
Aha....

so for instance...

10 tracks... 10 'red' wires all to one side of the power, 10 black all to the other?

Makes more sense now.

And I guess that my turnouts will be linked to a Kato 16V AC to 12V DC converter and thence to an independent power supply?
 
The_Limey said:
so for instance...

10 tracks... 10 'red' wires all to one side of the power, 10 black all to the other?

Makes more sense now.
Click to expand...
Yes, exactly.

And I guess that my turnouts will be linked to a Kato 16V AC to 12V DC converter and thence to an independent power supply?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I am ignorant of turnout controls and power supplies specific to Kato brand. I am certain someone else here will know.
 
The_Limey said:
Thanks...

At least I have one thing put to bed.

I assume that realistically each line wants power to it?
Click to expand...
They don't HAVE to be all powered separately, but it will keep your trains running smoothly. The non-power routing option when selected supplies power at all times to the tracks. Power-routing will turn off power if a switch is thrown away from the part that has power.
 
DCC always supplies about 14 volts of square-wave AC current to all the rails that are directly connected to each other and to the 'power distribution grid'. As in DC, where there are gapped and unpowered lengths, or where turnouts route power to one side of the frog and not the other when the points rails are lined appropriately, you will have dead rails there. If you still want power routing to avoid shorts at the frogs and guard rails (DCC systems are highly sensitive to shorting and will shut down), but if you also want the rails after the frogs powered, you will have to gap beyond the frog and power those rails with feeders.

The decoders adopt a name that you assign to them. Most of us use the 'cab number' on steamers or the diesel locomotive's individual number. The decoders run the locomotive, you run the decoders. If you want two engines doing two different things, you must direct each decoder to do what you want of it. They'll do it. So, you say you want to run two locomotives at once. Just acquire each cab number, one at a time, tell it do make the loco do something using your hand-held throttle, and then acquire the other and do the same. Both will continue to do what you assigned to them last until you command them to do otherwise.

There is a precis for wiring for DCC - http://www.wiringfordcc.com/
 


Umm, one word or two of caution here. It is possible to run two locomotives into each other using DCC.
 
Selector said:
DCC always supplies about 14 volts of square-wave AC current to all the rails ...
Click to expand...
Just to be technically correct the voltage applied to the rails will vary from 13 to 17.5 VDCC depending on the system and system settings. My Lenz system from the factory was 17.5 VDCC. I found this was too high for my tastes and reprogrammed the unit to send 14.5 VDCC to the track.
 
bnsf971 said:
Umm, one word or two of caution here. It is possible to run two locomotives into each other using DCC.
Click to expand...

LOL, already have a digital slotcar system so that's one thing I'm already wise to, but obviously that's all ready to run and there's no wiring - My bane!
 
bnsf971 said:
They don't HAVE to be all powered separately, but it will keep your trains running smoothly. The non-power routing option when selected supplies power at all times to the tracks. Power-routing will turn off power if a switch is thrown away from the part that has power.
Click to expand...

Right... aha... so by selecting non-routing I am in effect making the whole thing live. therefore, if I just made sure that I run cables to extremes points etc?
 
Selector said:
DCC always supplies about 14 volts of square-wave AC current to all the rails that are directly connected to each other and to the 'power distribution grid'. As in DC, where there are gapped and unpowered lengths, or where turnouts route power to one side of the frog and not the other when the points rails are lined appropriately, you will have dead rails there. If you still want power routing to avoid shorts at the frogs and guard rails (DCC systems are highly sensitive to shorting and will shut down), but if you also want the rails after the frogs powered, you will have to gap beyond the frog and power those rails with feeders.

The decoders adopt a name that you assign to them. Most of us use the 'cab number' on steamers or the diesel locomotive's individual number. The decoders run the locomotive, you run the decoders. If you want two engines doing two different things, you must direct each decoder to do what you want of it. They'll do it. So, you say you want to run two locomotives at once. Just acquire each cab number, one at a time, tell it do make the loco do something using your hand-held throttle, and then acquire the other and do the same. Both will continue to do what you assigned to them last until you command them to do otherwise.

There is a precis for wiring for DCC - http://www.wiringfordcc.com/
Click to expand...


Thank you, most informative, but I have to say at 7:49 on a quiet U.K morning it caught me off guard :)
 
Thanks...

I'll run a feed to the two 'main lines and then into 2 or three of the sidings at each end then... That should do the trick I guess.
 
Iron Horseman said:
Just to be technically correct the voltage applied to the rails will vary from 13 to 17.5 VDCC depending on the system and system settings. My Lenz system from the factory was 17.5 VDCC. I found this was too high for my tastes and reprogrammed the unit to send 14.5 VDCC to the track.
Click to expand...

True, and it actually varies between 12 volts and on up into 24 volts, depending on the intended application and settings, as you suggest. In our case, with N scale, the decoders are required to be able to handle 24 volts DC per NMRA specifications, but they are meant to run typically at about 12 volts in that scale. I have run my HO decoders in all three voltage range settings with my Super Empire Builder's DB150 5 amp power...but not on purpose. :o
 
Just be careful and pick a number and stick with it. If your DCC voltage is too high, you can shorten the life span of your headlights or blow them out completely.

The club I belong to is mostly 14 volts, but there is a section where it is 16 volts. I use 16 volts in the resistance equation for all of my lighting installations to be safe.

I had a Kato RS2 that had a factory 12 volt bulb in the middle of the board. The bulb got so hot on 14 volts that it melted a hole in the roof of the loco.
 


Noted, thank you...

Mark



If only we wargamers were as helpful on our forums :)

As I say, any miniature painting advice I can give just ask as I am a multi award winner and featured on Discovery Channel.

Galleries of my work can be found at www.conflictincolour.com
 
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