Aladdin General Store in O scale
- Thread starter CNR Glen
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+1 Very, very nice. Thanks also from me for sharing.
One tiny, hopefully constructive, "criticism" - No offense intended; For some reason the "perfect" drapes upstairs are really pulling my eye - They just seem to jump out as a little too "twee"..... A couple of possibilities [Assuming it's not too late of course, in which case I apologize and forget I said anything!
]
- One or two (in the back "bedrooms"?) are at least partially closed? [I really like that a few of the windows are open btw - That helps.]
- Even the "back" of many drapes have some kind of pattern in them - Maybe ones in different rooms could be finished in (slightly!) different colors or have a pattern of some sort added?
- Even someone standing in one or two of the windows may "take the edge off" a little?
I dunno - Maybe the above will make 'em jump out even more, and I can certainly see those at the front being kept "perfect" by the owner.
As always, my 02c and I'm certainly not trying to offend - Just offering some thoughts!
Cheers,
Ian
Well done! Very realistic and love the details especially the outhouses. I think a guy sitting in the outhouse would be great with a little light in it.
Can't wait to see it in place in a scene.
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I had some extra time this week so I manged to get most of the roofs on.
The rear roof over the board and batten addition has small rafters to attach. On this I have noticed is that the slots are made just large enough for the tabs to fit. Since I added the rafters after I painted I had to scrape the paint off each rafter tab to make it fit.
I also added all the trim to the front of the building
Mostly it's a matter of tracking down the right piece of trim of the lasercut sheets, painting it and gluing or sticking it in place. I had to sand a few pieces to fit but it was pretty easy. All the trim has the peel and stick but I added glue to some of the smaller part, just to make sure they would stay.
The two Roofs on the side additions (bar and post office) were installed too
I haven't placed the trim on those yet. You can also see the corbells on the upper trim which really add some character to the building.
The main roof and the rear addition's roof will both get shake shingles while the two side roofs will get corrugated roofing. I'm waiting for some polly-s rust for those.The next project will be the porch roof, which will also have shake shingles.
The rear roof over the board and batten addition has small rafters to attach. On this I have noticed is that the slots are made just large enough for the tabs to fit. Since I added the rafters after I painted I had to scrape the paint off each rafter tab to make it fit.
I also added all the trim to the front of the building
Mostly it's a matter of tracking down the right piece of trim of the lasercut sheets, painting it and gluing or sticking it in place. I had to sand a few pieces to fit but it was pretty easy. All the trim has the peel and stick but I added glue to some of the smaller part, just to make sure they would stay.
The two Roofs on the side additions (bar and post office) were installed too
I haven't placed the trim on those yet. You can also see the corbells on the upper trim which really add some character to the building.
The main roof and the rear addition's roof will both get shake shingles while the two side roofs will get corrugated roofing. I'm waiting for some polly-s rust for those.The next project will be the porch roof, which will also have shake shingles.
I've started work on the front porch roof
The front support comes as the mian joist with the uprights to be attached. There are two small hollow squares that slide up each post for the accent. I assembled and glued all this except for the bottom squares on each post. The posts fit into the holes on the porch and then I slid the squares down and glues them in place. I painted the assembly and then glued it all in place in the porch, adding the roof supports right after.
The front support comes as the mian joist with the uprights to be attached. There are two small hollow squares that slide up each post for the accent. I assembled and glued all this except for the bottom squares on each post. The posts fit into the holes on the porch and then I slid the squares down and glues them in place. I painted the assembly and then glued it all in place in the porch, adding the roof supports right after.
+1 Very, very nice. Thanks also from me for sharing.
One tiny, hopefully constructive, "criticism" - No offense intended; For some reason the "perfect" drapes upstairs are really pulling my eye - They just seem to jump out as a little too "twee"..... A couple of possibilities [Assuming it's not too late of course, in which case I apologize and forget I said anything!
]- One or two (in the back "bedrooms"?) are at least partially closed? [I really like that a few of the windows are open btw - That helps.]
- Even the "back" of many drapes have some kind of pattern in them - Maybe ones in different rooms could be finished in (slightly!) different colors or have a pattern of some sort added?
- Even someone standing in one or two of the windows may "take the edge off" a little?
I dunno - Maybe the above will make 'em jump out even more, and I can certainly see those at the front being kept "perfect" by the owner.
As always, my 02c and I'm certainly not trying to offend - Just offering some thoughts!
Cheers,
Ian
TRhanks for the compliments and the constructive critisim. However I'm building the kit for a friend and so it's pretty much going to be box-stock. The curtains are laser cut in the kit and so come in that particular shape. I couldn't close them any more than they are already because of that. While I agree some color choices might have been nice , this is what I had to work with.
I've built a bar mills kit (in HO) with simular construction but Bar mills does not supply curtians with that kit. Instead they suggest that you use tin foil, cut into the shape of curtains and painted. using tin foil you can shape the curtain any way you with including draping it outside the window frame.
I've built a bar mills kit (in HO) with simular construction but Bar mills does not supply curtians with that kit. Instead they suggest that you use tin foil, cut into the shape of curtains and painted. using tin foil you can shape the curtain any way you with including draping it outside the window frame.
I've been busy with shingling the roofs for the past couple days. The shingles I believe are die cut peel and stick. They come in a wood brown color of the sheets.I sprayed Creamcoat Mudstone on the sheet in a ramdom pattern to get some variety in the shingles when they go on the roof.
To start applying the shingles you first stick a 'starter-strip' on the bottom of the roof.
This gives the first row of shinlge the proper height instead of an unrealistic drop-off.
Then it's just a matter of applying the first row to cover the starter strip, and then the second row to cover the non-shingle part of the first strip and so on
When you finish the one side of the roof up to the top, you turn and add the other side. When both sides are done you are given a 'cap' piece that is a double-wide non shingle strip that has a scoring line length-wise. That is for bending over the roof peak
I did like how the finished roof looks with the peak cap on and the coloring of the shingles. I'll add some dry-brush steaking later with the addition of the chimney and other details.
The rear addition was done in a simular manner but I kept the airbrushing of the shingles a little lighter since this was a later addition to the building, hence the shingles would be newer.
I have to add the last course of shingles on the top yet. Those will be indiviual shingles cut from the sheets since there is no way to hide the top part on the shingle strip.
I've just started shingling the porch roof
To start applying the shingles you first stick a 'starter-strip' on the bottom of the roof.
This gives the first row of shinlge the proper height instead of an unrealistic drop-off.
Then it's just a matter of applying the first row to cover the starter strip, and then the second row to cover the non-shingle part of the first strip and so on
When you finish the one side of the roof up to the top, you turn and add the other side. When both sides are done you are given a 'cap' piece that is a double-wide non shingle strip that has a scoring line length-wise. That is for bending over the roof peak
I did like how the finished roof looks with the peak cap on and the coloring of the shingles. I'll add some dry-brush steaking later with the addition of the chimney and other details.
The rear addition was done in a simular manner but I kept the airbrushing of the shingles a little lighter since this was a later addition to the building, hence the shingles would be newer.
I have to add the last course of shingles on the top yet. Those will be indiviual shingles cut from the sheets since there is no way to hide the top part on the shingle strip.
I've just started shingling the porch roof
I added the last of the trim to the rear of the building and installed the roof. Okay the roof it removable so I really didn't install it, just placed it there.
I painted the chimney last night but it needs a couple washes before it gets placed in the roof
I airbrushed the metal roof parts as well. I rushed and forgot that I have to prime them first so the first attempt didn't go very well. but then I fliped them over primed and painted them in rust.
This brings me to a quandry. I had planned to glue the panels to the roof as they are and them use washes, drybrushing and chalks to weather them so the weathering could be done as they will sit and thus bleend them together. Or I coud weather them as you see in the picture for a more random look when I put them on the roof. Ideas anyone?
I painted the chimney last night but it needs a couple washes before it gets placed in the roof
I airbrushed the metal roof parts as well. I rushed and forgot that I have to prime them first so the first attempt didn't go very well. but then I fliped them over primed and painted them in rust.
This brings me to a quandry. I had planned to glue the panels to the roof as they are and them use washes, drybrushing and chalks to weather them so the weathering could be done as they will sit and thus bleend them together. Or I coud weather them as you see in the picture for a more random look when I put them on the roof. Ideas anyone?
I've done a bit of painting /weathering to a couple of the metal roof panels. I started by painting the entire panel in Floquil rust. Then I drybrushed Galleria Burnt Umber lengthwise. Then I drybrushed Galleria Burnt Sienna on them.
After that I brushed some folf-art Dapple gray
I'm trying to find a look for panels that have a bit of rust on them but still sericeable.
After that I brushed some folf-art Dapple gray
I'm trying to find a look for panels that have a bit of rust on them but still sericeable.
I installed the metal roof panels. The laser cut guide lines on the roof really help with lining them up.
The first course is laid down with the edges overlaping a bit.
Then the second course is laid down. I added weight to the second corse but a few edges didn't lay flat so I added some more glue and taped them down while the glue set
The other side went down nice and flat. I put an athearn blue box filled with metal parts on the panels while the glue set to make sure nothing lifted
I think the coloring came out pretty good.
The first course is laid down with the edges overlaping a bit.
Then the second course is laid down. I added weight to the second corse but a few edges didn't lay flat so I added some more glue and taped them down while the glue set
The other side went down nice and flat. I put an athearn blue box filled with metal parts on the panels while the glue set to make sure nothing lifted
I think the coloring came out pretty good.
I've finally finished the kit and all the detail parts. Here's the finished product
The interior, second floor view block
First floot interior
Twin outhouses, complete with toilet paper
Detail parts. They're a mix of Cast resin and white metal
A pair of chairs, both laser cut wood and easily the most fragile parts of the whole kit
Finally The gas pump, a mix of white metal and plastic parts
The interior, second floor view block
First floot interior
Twin outhouses, complete with toilet paper
Detail parts. They're a mix of Cast resin and white metal
A pair of chairs, both laser cut wood and easily the most fragile parts of the whole kit
Finally The gas pump, a mix of white metal and plastic parts
I've finally finished the kit and all the detail parts. Here's the finished product
The interior, second floor view block
First floot interior
Twin outhouses, complete with toilet paper
Detail parts. They're a mix of Cast resin and white metal
A pair of chairs, both laser cut wood and easily the most fragile parts of the whole kit
Finally The gas pump, a mix of white metal and plastic parts
Well done! Very realistic and love the details especially the outhouses. I think a guy sitting in the outhouse would be great with a little light in it.
Can't wait to see it in place in a scene.
Thanks. The building is already at my friend's house where he will eventually be adding scenery around it.
As for converting to O scale, I don't see that happening anytime soon. Far too much real estate is taken up by doubling the size I'm working in now as well as the overall cost difference between HO and O.
As for converting to O scale, I don't see that happening anytime soon. Far too much real estate is taken up by doubling the size I'm working in now as well as the overall cost difference between HO and O.
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