A good start... I hope


Well, I have been so excited about benchwork, laying track, and wiring switch machines, I had not thought about electrical safety :eek: I replaced the original 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong GFI. The top plug goes to the room light. The bottom plug is for the layout. I wanted a right angle head for the layout plug, but they are almost $20!!! This one I had and will do for now. No one can walk into it were it is, so it should be fine. The two old fashioned extension cords I had run to the transformers had to go. So, I ran 14-2 with a grounding wire along the frame of the bench, secured with electrical staples, to an outlet/switch panel I built under the table. Everything is plugged into here, and can be shut off by one switch, with room for expansion! Everything is safe, fully insulated, and protected from any kind of overload. I also became annoyed by the fact every time I operated a remote turnout, my locomotives would slow down. I decided a seperate power supply was in order. It is 4 amp continuous/6 amp max 12 volt supply I had from my shop at work for testing customer's equipment. Since I work for the county now, it was just sitting in my toolbox. It will operate up to four turnout machines at the same time! :D
 
Looking good!I have used 4% grades in the past. While I would recommend something smaller if you have the space, you can live with what you have. You will have to shorten the train length or double the engines pulling. I had a fleet of passenger cars I took the weight out of because of the grade, which made for the occasional derailment. What you could do to fix the S-Curve (if you want to) is use a piece of flex track and make the S more flowing and shallow. Otherwise, worry about it if you have problems, it doesn't seem like you are hauling long cars, so you shouldn't have worries.

The lower level of my layout is almost nothing but S-Curves, 10-inch straight between, and I can haul a full passenger train no problem.

The Woodland Scenics foam can be expensive, so you might want to consider making your own if you are going to go that route. All it takes is a big sheet and a scroll or band saw.

Keep up the good work, and keep having fun!

-Adam
 
Blue, it's a good thing you can't see the wiring on my layout - you'd have a heart attack. :eek: Nice job on the electrical. Having a separate power supply for the switches is good idea. You can also use it for things like streetlights and crossing signals. All mine is handles with two old but still reliable MRC monster power packs with two buses, one for switches and signals and the other for all my lighting, which is now up to about 100 bulbs.
 
A better start

Well, after running my trains around the table, looking at some of the amazing layouts posted on this forum, and some research, I came to the conclusion that my "good start" was destined to evolve into something else. The large table set in the middle of the small room just was not "cuttin it". I quickly became tired of shuffling sideways between the wall and layout with my head ducked forward to avoid bumping into the ceiling. So, last weekend, the table was dismantled. I measured out the room, sketched some plans while at work, and Monday began reconstruction. The layout is now spread around the room with a peninsula in the middle. I can comfortably walk within the layout. The bench is also 6 inches lower than the table was so my son can see everything without me carrying him. I have to thank everyone for all your encouragement and compliments. This is a great forum and a great hobby.
 
I liked your first layout but, the new one definitetly looks more inviting. Off to a good start, act 2, scene 1. :)
 
You did a good thing, Blue. First, you recognized the shortcomings of your first plan and fixed them instead of letting your ego take over and just pushing on. Second, you're going to like the penisula layout a lot better. You'll be able to get more track and scenery in the same space. Good move. :)
 
Well, I have had a little time here and there to put into the new layout. I decided to run an elevated section around the entire room, with a "duck under" at the doorway. Trying to squeeze two continuous loops on one level would mean a 15 inch radius turnaround on the inside loop. Too sharp. I can live with 18 inch radius as my minimum. The upper level is 4 inches above the 0 elevation level with 22 inch radius curves. I will run between a 10 to 11 foot long grade down 3 inches to a yard at a 1 inch elevation. That should give me a 2.5% to 2.2% grade. The inside loop mainline will be at 0 elevation level. I may set up a connecting line between the two loops at a 1.6% grade, depends on how much track I have left from my last Ebay score :) Right below the window I plan to setup a river, and part of my inside loop will tunnel under the upper mainline.
Before I get too involved with inside line trackwork, I would like to paint the room a "sky blue" color... yes I will fix the missing section of sheetrock! I have absolutely no clue about paint color. I have a Lowes and Home Depot close by. Can anyone offer some suggestions?
Here are some progress pictures...
 
And a couple more...
A note on the middle picture, I will have to shorten the peninsula 6 to 8 inches. It is a bit of a tight squeeze walking through there right now... have to turn myself sideways.
 
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WOW!!...This has really turned into something! You'd never know its your first layout by judging your bench work and wiring. Great Job!!..I suggest doing allot of experimenting with plans before attaching anything to that bench work. Make sure your happy, tho it will easy to change before any ballast is added.
 
blue sky

Find some light blue interior latex, paint the whole room that color. You can always paint a backdrop panel and attach it to the wall later. Try painting a wall, if it turns out too dark, you can always add white and start over. Remember, haze and dust makes the sky look lighter toward the horizon, plus you want the sky light enough that it just fades into the background, accentuating your modeling work.

Dave


.....Before I get too involved with inside line trackwork, I would like to paint the room a "sky blue" color... yes I will fix the missing section of sheetrock! I have absolutely no clue about paint color. I have a Lowes and Home Depot close by. Can anyone offer some suggestions?
 
Id say your off to a GREAT start!! And i agree with the others, your benchwork and wireing looks very nice!! :D
 
Thankyou everyone for all your compliments and encouragement. I am having a blast with this project! Daveleb55, thankyou for your post. I will head out this weekend and pick up some light blue interior latex like you suggest. I will keep you all posted!!!
BTW, I managed to get a little more time on this over the weekend. Mostly working on the grade
 
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Made some more progress... I think I have a track plan I am happy with. I am waiting for some Ebay wins to arrive (Atlas turntable $15, 3 more Atlas turnouts and track $8, and another transformer $10) then I will have everything I need to finish laying track. I picked up a box of WS foam roadbed with 36 two foot strips and will be buying more. Once I have enough roadbed, I will lay it all at the same time. Here are some progress pics...
 
Looking fine, Blue. Check at Home Depot and Lowes in the custom paint return section. Some shade of blue is a common custom color and people will return lefotovers, which you can get for 25% of normal retail. If it's too dark, some cheap white latex will lighten it. Try it on a few sections of wall with the room lighting up and see which one looks the best.
 
I decided to do away with terminal tracks, and soldering to the track was a little tedious, so I soldered leads to the nickle silver rail joiners. I made about 24 pair for booster leads and seperate leads for switching blocks on and off. This process was very easy and very quick. Not to mention really cheap!!! Atlas sells a similar product for nearly $4 a pair!!!:eek:
 
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