10 amp DCC

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It is about three times what you will ever need, even with six or seven sound-equipped engines MU'd to pull 130 weighted cars. Most of us have to have friends come over to run a bunch of our engines in order to get near 5 amps.

If you are a lone wolf operator, and would probably only ever run two pairs of MU'd engines, you'll be lucky to use 2 amps.

Caveat: this assumes you are using free-wheeling cars in good condition and newer can motors and drives. If you are resurrecting older engines with open frame motors, you can add at least 70% to the figures above.

-Crandell
 
I agree with Crandell. Unless you're running a besement sized empire and are using DCC to control other things like switches and a bunch of reverse loops, you'll never need 10 amps of power. It's really expensive to get that much power now and you can always add boosters in the future. For most home layout 2 to 3 amps is more than adequate.
 


I run (2)18 amp power supplies/boosters and one (10)amp dual control power supply. I have over 1700 lineal feet of track to supply, run old Athearn Hi-Fi's from time to time. There are no fewer than a dozen engines running during an operating session. Do I need all of that power? Dunno. but, it's better tohave it and not need it than to need it and not have it. I have seen the needles go over 15 amps when running some of the older equipment. Some of those old engines suck 1.5-2 amps. Efficient is not a good description, that's for sure.

Also, the length of your leads will make a difference. Long leads equals power loss.

Bob
 
Hmm... I guess I would have to agree that more is better if you need it. If our OP has such a vast layout, he would be wise to have several boosters.

On the other hand, why pay for potential that you will almost never want or need? Unless our OP is running numerous trains up 2-4% inclines towing many cars and needing to run them on his 300' layout, he is unlikely to need more than 5 amps, and if necessary, a single additional booster if his layout is better split into two large power districts, each managing, say, 150 linear feet of rails.

It depends on the application. It does take some simple arithmetic, some foresight to include future possible needs, and then pay for the 99% solution.

-Crandell
 
power

I guess my wife would best describe me as being the guy on tv putting a bigger motor on a dishwasher and when it's turned on it shoots out the door because of too much power. When I was building street rods I always put the biggest motor I could in her and then just feel the vibration of the power. I think I'm looking at about 300' with out the yard and the N scale. And yes I'll have some grades and someday I want to operate all with the computer. My DCC unit is a NCE and I like the idea of the reverse loop feature with the 10 amp unit. Buy it once and get it over with.
 
Brrrrmmm, brrrrrrmmmm!!!!

Sumthin' like this?

snorkelmotorside.jpg
 
Power

Now that's one big RAT! And I think you know what I mean. To feel the power of something that was not suppose to be is just out of this world. What's it going in? An FN1 and your track is going to take the load. It looks great. You do know what I mean by the term Rat don't you. What's the cubes and HP? I see you have some heavy straps on the blower.
 
Not a RAT, a "monster mouse". It's a 410CI Rodek, based on a 400CI Chevy, billet. We had it dyno'd at around 1800HP. I brought it home and tamed it down a bit. Changed injector nozzles and blower drives and blades. Probably around 1200hp now. It's in my '41 Willys.

There is exactly 1 1/4" of clearance under the hood. And, yes, it will pull the front wheels of of the ground.

Another view.
snorkelmotorfront.jpg


Here's the car.
3cf3_12.jpg


Bob
 


power

I would think that it would jump where's the ladder bars? The body looks nice, it looks like it's metal rather than plastic. How many hours to get it that way? The part of building up a car I liked the best was to start it for the first time knowing that that engine didn't belong in that car and with a carb you know there was going to be a flame shoot up by your arm as you do the final adjustment on the timing. My wife would complain about the house vibrating. the last custom I did was a 54 Ford Skyliner and it had to have louvers in the hood because there was no room for the air to flow out of the engine compartment. It had 1/4' from the radiator to the front of the water pump so I had two pusher fans on the front.
 
If'n ya look closely, Rex, ain't no windshield or windows in the car when that pic was taken. And it's not black anymore either. The only reason it's black is because the paint didn't come in in time to paint it for a show. And we pulled the windows to paint it. Black is all I had.

Bob
 
Car engines aside (which looks pretty impressive, Bob :) ), buying up in power now is fine as long as you understand that the price of model railroad electronics has been steadily dropping. I'm pretty sure that anyone who stocked up on basic four function decoders three years ago would regret that decision today. The price of power boosters will drop over time, so I would buy more power when I knew I needed it. Up to you which way you want to go.
 
Yep, Jim, my boosters didn't come cheap. But, I needed them when I needed them. And Tony's gave me a great deal since I bought two and I had purchased my DCC unit from them.

I haven't bought a decoder in some time. I have noticed that they have dropped in price by almost 50% since I last bought any. And now there are the Tsunami sound decoders!!!! WOW!!!!! Thankfully, I had the foresight to use plug in harnesses. So, now changing the old decoders out will be relatively easy other than wiring in the speakers. And the steam engines will have sound generated from the tenders, so that is a plus.

Do you think that car engine would work on a lawn mower?

The car is all steel. The stock frame had to be pitched. More pics.

4088_12.jpg


4150_12.jpg


car-6.jpg


baretail.jpg



Bob
 
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power

It looked like it was missing the interior also. But I've entered cars in the under construction class before. Just tell me it's not a trailer queen.
 
We drive to shows, like James Dean Days and Rebel Run. And it makes appearances at the local root beer stand in good weather during the summer. The local PD doesn't appreciate the noise. I have no tail pipes, just headers and collector with "rattle traps". It can get NOISY!!!!!

Posted a few pics on my previous post. You should take a look. The car took almost two years to build. But, I owned the shop so......

Bob
 
power

Bob, the car looks very good. With or with out the sound I'm sure it would turn heads. My ranch truck is an 83 ford F350. I made the flat bed and put in a bored out blue oval that has a few other goodies (not as good as yours) but it hauls cattle like nothing else. I left the outside the way it was with the all the dents from bulls rubbing on and most are shocked that something that ugly could run away from them.
 
Bob, that's one of the nice things about buying from Tony's. They are almost always willing to make a deal if you are buying expensive items or items in quanity. I use them exclusively for my DCC needs and they have always treated me well. Man, that is some frame. :eek: I've seen the pictures when you finished the coupe and it's a stunning vehicle. I can imagine the local PD wants to know where all the noise is coming from when you're in town. Even being a hard head like I was, I'd give you a pass in a car as nice as that. :)
 
Well, Jim, glad to finally see you admit to being a hard head. I'm seeing your therapy is finally working.

Yes, I love Tony's. They were a big help in selecting my unit as I was truly torn between Lenz and Digitrax. Both were about the same price. I was ready to flip a coin.

Bob
 


Ditto on Tonys. They always make an extra effort to get you what you want and help with deciding what is best for your needs.

On POWER: I had an Op session where there were 18 locomotives on the layout and in service. Of course some were stopping or switching while others were in transient to distant locals, all were can type motors and many with sound, but I never saw the amp meter go beyond 6.5 amps. I use a Super Chief 8amp on ~1500 feet of track...no booster...however I do have many parallel bus runs.:)

BOB: Heck, I just thought you had very clean windows, LOL! :D :D
 
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