True, but they look good going around 18" Radaii (For whence they were made for).
I believe IHC makes some interiors that you can cut down to fit.
David
You need to give more info...
What prototype do you intend to model? What kinds of locomotives and rolling stock? Will your curves have easments?
If you want my opinion, I tend to go by the 28" minimum radius rule. It will allow you to run pretty much anything. If you go less than 28"...
Your reversing loops cuts should be where you know only one train will be at a time....and that train cannot span that loop. So Basically the reversing loop has to accomidate your longest train where only on train will enter the loop at one time. If the loop is shorted at both ends at the same...
I have seen some great looking Athearn Heavyweight kitbashes....Well, one could change out the wheels with metal ones, add an interor, weight the car properly, add diaphrams, add grabirons, and repaint them. Thats what I would do if I had to....
David
Hmmm...my spidey sence thinks they are 8 ohm each. They are on the TOP of the tender facing downward. Like-a-so....
The tsunami requires 8 ohm. Better sound would be made by getting the biggest oval speaker that will fit on the floor (after you remove the MRC decoder). I would drill...
If you can Solder, I would. Nothing is worse that painting a brass caboose, masking and findiing out that your masking tape has uber-sticky properties.(ask me how I know). Also, I tend to scrub my brass in paint thinner before painting (to remove the laquer on the brass)....some of my thinner...
I havent personally installed a Tsunami into the Athearn Challenger, but I have seen the innards of the tender and the change wouldnt be that difficult (I have installed many Tsunamis in various locos). When you remove the tender shell, you will see 2 PC boards and the speaker assembly on the...
I agree with the above. I also use uber-bright 3mm LEDS and Surface Mound super white LEDS...this allows me to have ditchlights and special lighting available in areas that before wouldnt allow it.
I find the best source for these LEDs is on Ebay. They usually come in multiples of 50 and...
One could use some not so thin styrene and make yourself a shelf that extends over the flywheels and the motor....then place the decoder on that...the wires will then be held up by the styrene (or make grooves in the plastic to hold the wires in place).
David