Today is our anniversary! Forty years ago today I married a great woman! I know that for a fact because she's put up with me all this time!
Eric, I just was rummaging through my stash 'o trains, and found an Atlas ATSF GP38-2 with DCC and Loksound I`d let you have pretty cheap, if you want it. It is the previous version of decoder, but it runs terrific, and sounds good.
I will take a video of it later, and post it on Youtube.
Yeah, I'd be interested. HO I assume?
That is an early Roco C424.It is probably a single-truck drive. They were over the years imported by Atlas, AHM, Life Like, and probably some others.Here another of my engines. Now you can see it with it in the sunlight.
Any idea the make and model of the real one?
Under fuel tank is stamped "Made in Austria"?
Who would have made it? Is it a Marklin?
I have been inside this one and it comes apart easy with just 2 snaps by the front and rear couplers.
It's a smooth operator as well and is by far the fasted one of the lot.
E.
View attachment 48092
Interest. This makes it look almost dark blue. But it is very much a flat black.
That is an early Roco C424.It is probably a single-truck drive. They were over the years imported by Atlas, AHM, Life Like, and probably some others.
Atlas released a much-improved version in the late 1980s that was made by Kato.
Nice! I like it.
Bob, congrats on the anniversary! Give her a hug from us, she surely deserves it!
Congratulations Bob. 40 years - how old were you when you got married?
In the interests of helping you get a quality collection going (and spoil you), I'd take $85 for it, delivered to your house.
Okay, check your email. You should have one from Paypal in there somewhere.Done! Check private messages.
You are correct about the driveshafts to the front and rears trucks. Those are what's missing. It sounds smooth to put the power to it so I know it wants to go. I think it would be a good runner myself. This is an old one so it's DC only.
The couplers on mine look like the hook type with that lower point cut off. I have a few other cars like that as well.
Got a lead on where I get driveshafts for it? I did some searching a few weeks but wasn't sure.
E.
No leads for you Eric, but here is something that you can do to make it run again. First, remove all of the cups, the ones with the slots in them, from the motor, the top gears in the middle of the chassis, and from each truck.
This is cheap way it involves some sweat equity:
Get you some nails, or some kind of round stock brass, etc, longer than the distance between the motor and gearbox. Measure the distance between the end of the motor shaft and the end of the gearbox shaft. Cut the roundstock to a slightly smaller length, and smooth the ends. Next take a small piece, about 1" long, of brown zip cord, like that used to extend lamp cords or on stereo speakers. This can be had at Lowes, HoDo, or most hardware stores. Push about 1/2 the length onto the motor shaft, cut another piece, same length, and push it onto the gearbox shaft. Now place the nail into each end of the cord pieces, making sure they are straight, when you spin the motor. You may have to bend one of the cord pieces to get it onto the other end, but when done, make sure it also is straight. Repeat the procedure with each truck. But here, you may have to shorten the shafts for the trucks, but not by much. Once the shafts are in place, the loco should run better than what it did with the original shafts in place.
This is the easy way, but calls for money:
Measure each shaft's diameter. Go to http://shop.osorail.com/category.sc?categoryId=42 and go down the list until you find the set that fits your shaftsThat are located here.http://shop.osorail.com/searchresults.sc The appropriate shafts are located on page two, in case this doesn't take you straight to the page.
One method can be done for pennies, and a little more DIY, the other takes a couple of $.