Chameleon Paint Stripper


blue92rs

blue92rs

Cheaper than therapy!
Hello! I remember reading on the forums here that some of you have had experience with Chameleon Paint stripper. After reading someone's post about his success with it, I decided to give it a try. Five weeks ago, I ordered a 8 oz. bottle from the Diversified Products website and have yet to receive it!!! I called the business phone # several times, the answering system picked up every time. I left a total of three messages as to the status of the order. No replies.
I finally found a retailer by me who had a few small bottles in stock, so I grabbed one. Now for the question... I read the instructions on the bottle and got started. After 20 minutes, the product did not seem to be working, so, as per the instructions, I left my Athearn diesel shell in the product longer. 3 hours later, I am scrubbing with a medium stiffness toothbrush and finding myself doing not much more than coloring the bristles! The paint is not coming off... I was having more sucess with brake fluid!!!
Is there something I may be doing wrong? Any input / help will be much appreciated!
Thanks, Steve.
 
Steve, I've found that either alcohol or brake fluid handles 90% of my stripping needs at a lot less cost than special purpose products. As has been pointed out, a lot of the locos, road names, and small merkings are pad printed with an ink dye so they are tougher to get off. Next time you're at an Office Depot, ask them for a bottle of ink remover. It's suposed to be used to remove ink from your hands. It does an equally good job removing pad printed ink markings.
 
Thankyou for the replies! This particular shell was custom painted with some very thick blue and orange paint over several other colors (green, yellow). The shell was an undecorated originally, so I am pretty sure there is no ink prints on there. It was a cheapie Ebay win loaded with extra detail parts that I want to repaint for Norfolk Southern. I will give your suggestions a try. Thankyou!
 
i've used chameleon twice and have had excellent results. After a while the stuff starts to take longer with all the gunk floating in it. But i stripped 7 athearn amd103 shells first time. this past weekend i did 3 bombardier bi-levels and a rivarossi car.
 
Hello Steve, thanks for your input! I went back to the gentleman I bought the first bottle from and told him my experience. He gave me another bottle and I just finished working with it. Much better results this time around!!!
I have three shells total that I am working with. The first one (the ebay one I spoke of in my last post) I tried in brake fluid first. It soaked for several days and not much paint came off. The orange was much more willing than the dark blue, green and gray! :D I then soaked that same shell in the first bottle of Chameleon I purchased with no progress at all.
Maybe I did not clean the brake fluid residue thoroughly enough? The paint the previous modeler used is VERY thick and appears to be brush on. Could that have an affect?
So, I went back to using brake fluid on that shell and I am making slow but certain progress.
The new bottle of Chameleon that I was given yesterday I decided to use on my next shell. (fresh start:)) The coat of paint on this one is much thinner and is over top of a very dark coat of blue that was applied by the manufacturer. Both layers of paint came of with ease, but only after soaking for about 3 hours then lightly scrubbing with a new, cheapie, medium bristle toothbrush.
The third shell I soaked in mineral spirits for a half hour... that was not a good idea... :eek:
Any helpful tips, hints, or suggestions are very much appreciated. I am new and VERY unexperienced with stripping and painting, but willing to listen and learn!
 
Here are some pics. The first is the brake fluid / chameleon attempt. Lots of scrubbing with toothbrush!
The second and third are with the new bottle of chameleon. On the third, you can see how dark the factory blue is. Almost looks black!
The forth pic is using the mineral spirits. Took the paint off quite easily, but turned it into a gooey, sticky mess. Also softened and distorted a spot on the inside of the shell :eek:
 
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I went to a wholesale automotive paint store the other day to get some 1/16th 3M pin stripeing & talked to them about a stripper for plastic models. They said they would check w/their distributors & call me. I was looking at the stripper for plastic car bumpers & it looked interesting. It comes in a big spray can w/a rattle ball. Should have bought it to try out. Next time!! I'm having trouble stripping 3 old Athearn engines. I've tried ATF, Brake fluid & Mean Green parts cleaners & so far nothings worked.
 
be very careful with brake fluid, it will warp some plastics.... ask me how I know

I use 90% isopropyl for just about all stripping projects
 
I build plastic car and truck models as well. I use Purple Power from wall mart. A gallon costs roughly 6 bucks. Stuff works really really well and does not distort the palstic in any way. Just be a little carfull though because it's caustic. I don't use anything else.
 
that one engine looks like it was custom painted over the original paint. If the paint is on thick like the bombardier cars i stripped were it will take longer. Are you completely submerging the model? I've noticed that if you submerge it even half way and use a lid the vapors alone will start to bubble up the paint. I use my wifes clear make up case :)
 
ohhh and does anyone know what the hell to do with Broadway limited Blue line shells? I let it sit in 90% alcohol and it did nothign but melt the plastic windows, yes melt them!! I let it sit in the chameleon for hours and it didn't do chit! I've got 4 shells that will become trash if i can't strip them.
 
I guess your wife will not be wanting her makeup case back!!!:D
I found 99% isopropyl alchohol at my local Rx. I have one of the shells soaking in it as I write this, and making as much progress as the fresh bottle of chameleon. I am using glass jars that Prego Sauce came in. I washed them thoroughly then filled one with the chameleon and the other with the 99% isopropyl. I then immersed one shell into each jar and they have been soaking for 3 1/2 hours so far. Unfortunately the jars are not deep enough to put the lids back on, but I can definately see how that would help. I checked the progress twice in the past 2 hours, gave each shell a bit of scrubbing with a medium bristle toothbrush and am pleased with the progress so far!
 
Laidoffsick said:
be very careful with brake fluid, it will warp some plastics.... ask me how I know

I use 90% isopropyl for just about all stripping projects
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I took your advice and put the brake fluid away :) The isopropyl alchohol is working VERY nicely. I found a bottle of 99% at my local Rx which is doing a great job. Even the 70% I had laying around is working pretty well on one of my other shells. I will post pics of the progress tomorrow! Thanks again!!!
 
NYSW F45 said:
that one engine looks like it was custom painted over the original paint. If the paint is on thick like the bombardier cars i stripped were it will take longer. Are you completely submerging the model? I've noticed that if you submerge it even half way and use a lid the vapors alone will start to bubble up the paint. I use my wifes clear make up case :)
Click to expand...

Yes, actually all three were custom painted over top of the original paint. The first one and the last one in the pics were REALLY thick so I guess that could be slowing the process. :eek: The 99% seems to be making the quickest work of it! I took your advice and moved them to sealed containers. They are still only partially submerged. We will se how it goes!
 
I gave up trying to get paint off my SD40-2's. I've had them in 99% alcohol for 3 days & the paint is still in layers. I ordered 2 shells from Model railcraft tonite for $9.95 ea. plus a bunch of other Athearn parts for other engines.
I think I've probably spent about $20.00 on strippers in the past 2 weeks that didn't work. I'll use the unstripped shells in my junk yard or on a flat car for a load.
 
Have y'all tried Pine-Sol on these problem locomotives? I find it works on engines and cars that nothing else touches. You sometimes need to follow-up with a short soak of alcohol for some nooks and crannies but I find Pine-Sol works 90% of the time. Also, as long as you can get all the lettering off and the existing paint doesn't clash with your new paint, you don't have to strip the whole engine. The existing engine's paint can be used as primer. I know there are other that won't agree with me but I have had success using this method for more than 40 years.
 
Larry said:
I think I've probably spent about $20.00 on strippers in the past 2 weeks.
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Thats it? Wish they were that cheap in my neighborhood! :D

Anyway, im going to give up on this broadway limited project of piecing the SD40-2 together. I have 2 frames and 4 shells from that huge garage sale they had in July. Im just going to bite the bullet and get 2 81'' nose SD40-2's from athearn soon.
 
I tried sandblasting once when I had access to a jeweler's sandblaster, It took off the paint with ease, along with every other detail, like doors, hinges, fans, exhaust stacks...you pretty much had a slighlty curved hunk of plastic when you were done. :) I was testing it on an old Tyco shell so I didn't shed too many tears when it was done. As long as you're good at desoldering and soldering, a jewlers sandblaster works great on brass, but you have to take all the soldered details off first or the sandblaster would remove it for you. I did this once and the brass engine looked better than new when you followed up with some blasted rouge.

ChevelleSSguy said:
Media blasting wont work?
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