Jerome's Switcher Roster


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railfan said:
I live in mount vernon, ohio and the only train that comes here anymore is an emd switcher from newark 25 miles south of here. It pulls around a few boxcars and grain hoppers a couple days a week. But I'll take it...what the heck it's pretty neat after seeing no trains for awhile. Now up northwest in downtown marion ohio they have 100 trains a day sometimes.....busy busy :eek:.
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Railfan, any chance of posting up some pics of your local switcher?

Paul
 
wheeler1963 said:
Mark, that switcher has the Kaydee plastic coupler boxes installed on it. That'll work right?? :eek:
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Yup as long as the metal screw doesnt touch the metal couplers your good. If its in the Kadee plastic boxes with the plastic pin then good to go. This applies to ALL blue box locos that use the frame to power the motor not only switchers.
 
MGWSY said:
Looks like the two outer wires go to the pickups and the two inside wires go to the motor so plugging it in backwards won’t matter as it would only go in the opposite direction. I would be more worried with the wires rubbing on the flywheels and eventually causing a short when the insulation rubs off. Also on Athearn Blue Box models you have to make sure to isolate any metal coupler from the metal frame as the frame has power going through it. Couple two units back to back with metal couplers and stock slips and you will definitely cause a short.
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You hit the nail on the head Mark, it works even if you plug it in backwards! For those who are curious, the plug is a Miniatronics 4 pin connector, model # 50-004-01. :D
 
PaulB said:
Railfan, any chance of posting up some pics of your local switcher?

Paul
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I found this by googling ohio central newark yard. This is definitely the one. Can someone tell us what model this is? I think it's an emd.
 
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Firedoc40 said:
I love my new Calf Cow set they are so awesome. I know its a little late in posting but Jerome these are AWESOME!!!!!
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Those look hella gnarly in burlington green and black. Outstanding! :)

Mike
 
Jerome,

your parcel arrived yesterday with the fuel tank bits. Thank you very much for your help. I've been too busy to fiddle with them and all I can do until Sunday is this drive by posting to say thanks,

Paul
 
Jerome, This thread is great and have enjoyed reading thru it, Great work. Wanted to ask you, What tool do you use when removing the exhaust fans from top of loco and how did you do it? Also when you put in the brass grab irons, that go up side of engine. What do you do with the plastic molded on ones that are on the athearn blue box models? do you leave them or grind them down? Thanks G
 
PaulB said:
Jerome,

your parcel arrived yesterday with the fuel tank bits. Thank you very much for your help. I've been too busy to fiddle with them and all I can do until Sunday is this drive by posting to say thanks,

Paul
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Paul, no problem, glad I could help.
 
bgoatsw said:
Jerome, This thread is great and have enjoyed reading thru it, Great work. Wanted to ask you, What tool do you use when removing the exhaust fans from top of loco and how did you do it? Also when you put in the brass grab irons, that go up side of engine. What do you do with the plastic molded on ones that are on the athearn blue box models? do you leave them or grind them down? Thanks G
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G, to remove the molded on fans I first drill a large hole in them. Then I use a cutter bit in a dremmel tool to trim out the rest. Get as close to the edge as your comfortable with. Then use an X-Acto blade for the final trimming.

For the molded on grab irons, I use a #17 chisel blade to trim them off. Sand down the area smooth, then drill your new holes for the wire grab irons.

Hope this helps. ;)
 
Any recommendation for size/type of wire to use for the grab irons? My apologies if you've already posted, did a quick scan through the last bunch of pages and couldn't find it. Also if you have any recommendation for size/type of wire to use for railings and stanchions I'd appreciate it too!
 
Vince, I use pre-made grab irons made by either Details Associates or Tichy. I use Details Associates brass wire for the railings. .010 and .015 Stanchions I use the Athearn blue box stanchions. Smokey Valley also makes nice brass stanchions.
 
Thanks! Not sure I'm ready for that level of detailing, but nice to know where to go when I am. On the other hand, I need to replace some missing rail/stanchions on an SD40-2 anyway, so I probably should just add a few grab irons while I'm at it...right? :)
 
Hey can a GP15-1 pass for a switcher? Maybe a bit big but I searched and see Jerome had at least one. Found a new green and black burlington for not too much $. I can easily imagine it being a switcher on my Gizmo-Pacific. Maybe that's why it's called GP. (general purpose too). :)

Aha! wikipedia says it's a switcher.....yay!

Mike
 
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