What do you use for glue?

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B

bkpigs

Member
Just curious to see what you guys use for glue on your buildings? I have been using MEK and it really holds the buildings together. The only problem with it is you have to have a perfect seam. You can't bridge any gaps with it. I tried some plastic cement (gell kind) and I wasn't too satisfied. It seems to never fully harden or bond extremely hard.
 
I hope you use a respirator w/that MEK. I use Gel Superglue, Testors plastic cement in the orange tube & E6000 glue in the big tube that I get at WM. I use E6000 for a lot of things that I don't ever need to take apart except w/a sharp screwdriver & a hammer.
 
I use Plastruc Plasticweld, similar to MEK action without the smell and a tiny bit slower. This doesn't help you with fill; I use what Larry uses, CA Gel. For those parts that need a little more time, I use Testors that comes in the boxy looking container with a long spout...sorry don't remember exact name.
 


testors plastic cement (oarnge tube) for all my building walls and large parts. CA (gap filling) glues for small details. I rarely use the thin CA as it gets all over the place very easy
The testors glue will hold better and longet than a CA. In my expernice CA glues become brittle over time
 
I use Model Masters Liquid cement. Get the Hobby Shop version, it has a needle nose applicator, the others have a crappy plastic nozzle. Hard to tell apart in the store. For resin and hard to hold stuff I use medium weight CA and for gaps CA gel. Hit the CA with accelerator and the bond is instant and tough. Remember CA has no shear strength, so if you're pushing or pulling apart along the bond, it will not hold up. Also remember Testor's and MM liquid are ONLY good for styrene, anything else it doesn't melt together to bond.
 
I have, MEK, Testors in the triangle bottle, and the orange tube, Testors clear parts cement & window maker, CA in both flexible ultra thin, and thick gap filling, plus a foam safe, Testors green tube (wood & metal parts, great for wood craftsman kits), Barge cement, Walthers Goo (Last two for weights), and lastly Testors plastic cement in the pen.

I prefer the liquid Testors (triangle bottle) for a majority of my plastic cementing. I use MEK with the Barge for brass sheet to plastic. Testors orange tube for structures with thick walls and reassembling my cut down intermodal wells. Clear parts cement for just that, clear parts, or in places where I don't want glue to show (Ditch lights to walkways for example). The CA is for attaching detail parts mostly. The Gap filling also doubles as a hole filler, with some CA insta-set to cure it.
 
I'm also planning to order Cyanopox and some CA with carbon to test sheer strength on some RailFlyer chassis.
 
I only use CyanoPoxy on the Pilot plate to the plastic frame module and the Steps to the Plastic Frame module and the bolster/jack pad assembly to the frame, for the frame sills I use the MEK/Barge mix because it is flexible to allow the frame to flex also all the walkway tread plate I attach with the MEK/Barge mix, and of course plastic to plastic I use either MEK or any solvent base will work.

I have built up 10 Railflyer Model Prototypes Inc. and this is so far my best recommendation for what to use.

I do recommend that when attaching the pilot plate to the frame that you scuff up the Brass plate with 320 grit emery cloth where the bond will occur just to add more surface area for the adhesive to grab to, I did drop one of the frames and it bent the plate over but the CyanoPoxy never let loose.

Stan
 
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Thanks Stan. That's precisely why I planned to use Cyanopox, for derailment situations, don't want the pilot to sheer off the chassis.
 
I think I've used just about every kind of glue mentioned so far but still prefer good old Testors plastic glue for structure assembly. It's a little too messy for small jobs so I usually use CA for small parts. I've never tried Cyanopox but it sounds like it's pretty good stuff.
 


UP2CSX said:
I think I've used just about every kind of glue mentioned so far but still prefer good old Testors plastic glue for structure assembly. It's a little too messy for small jobs so I usually use CA for small parts. I've never tried Cyanopox but it sounds like it's pretty good stuff.
Click to expand...

CyanoPoxy is a little pricey for the starter kit but it keeps in the freezer just let it warm up to room temp before using it, I had my CyanoPoxy for 4 years now.

There are a couple other brands out there like C-Pox same stuff but in my opinion not as strong but it is a little cheaper, also LocTite makes a 2 part system that comes in a small Aluminum tube and I have found it at Lowes, Home Depot, for around 4 bucks but never liked the strong joint inabilities it has compared to CyanoPoxy.
 
plasticweld.jpg
 
Boiled cat. :D (You should see the looks I'm getting from Dixie and Belle! :eek:)

Seriously though, Testor's or Plastruct, CA for some things, Elmer's for paper stuff like signs and scenery applications.
 


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