Weekly Photo Fun 8-21/8-27

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Jeffrey, hard to tell the size from that second picture but getting a cloud with a properly dark bottom and progressively lighter top is not easy. I started using Floquil Gtime to color the bottoms the puffy parts away from the sun and that seems to work pretty good.

Trent, I still like the four unit F set better. :) 65 cars is a heck or a load for steam or diesel though.

Jon, the Miniatronics shade and bulb like the one at http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/475-7210505 would be perfect for the street lights strung along the center line of the bridge. They're pretty cheap as well.
 


BOC, here's the LED you need:
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/warningflasher.html
Get the 5mm white bulb. You can either tint the bulb with transparent yellow paint or install four clear lenses in the light and tint them yellow. Michaels sells some really nice transparent colors that are used for stained glass and work well with LED's. If you want a four way flashing red, get the 3mm red bulb. These bulbs have the resistor and flasher built in so you don't need any extra wiring. It has a slower flash rate than most LED flashing bulbs that is just about right for a traffic warning light.
 
DSCN1696.jpg
 
Jeffrey, after looking at the boo-boo picture, do you think you could just glue clump foliage on the right hand section to match the tree on the left hand section? I know you have very little clearance but that might work to at least make the tree look like one piece and take your attention away from the other things that don't match up.
 


What about printing off a new tree image?
That's one of the 'All Else' things. First I have to photograph one of the trees on the background then upload it to a photo editor so I can remove the other background images and isolate the tree. It then has to be printed and carefully cut out then mounted.
 
Jon, looks perfect. I assume that's a temporary installation now. I'd run a central bus hanging from the top girders of the bridge and then run each light off the central bus so you only have a short run of light wire to the bus. I'd also use a resistor in line to cut down the brightness by about half although it's hard to tell how bright they really are in pictures. Those old reflector lights weren't very bright so the look you should be after is the lights bright enough to light up the roadway but not much else away from the bridge. Use heat shrink tubing for the bus and then paint it all silver when you're done to match the bridge. Should look just like the real thing.

Hmmm....you could actually do all this wiring on the workbench and then just hang it from the top girders all in one piece. Might be a little tricky handling the snake and not breaking any of the connections but it would sure be a lot easier than trying to solder inside the truss structure.
 
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Since there hasn't been anything posted for over 24 hours here's one of my old ones. This is a 60's Athearn SF caboose body on a Bachmann frame.

DSCN0629.jpg
 
Josh, the Walthers stop light/traffic light/red light (depending on where you're from :) ) are gems. Don't pay the full retail. Walthers or someone always has them on sale. I got the hanging four way for $14 and the controller for $28. The LED's are appropriately bright and all the wiring is concealed. It's about as easy as it gets to set up, just run the wires under the layout, screw them on the right terminals, and attach the controller under the layout. It's light so I used Velco, which seems to be working fine. Only downside is that you can't control the pattern, it's fixed to give so much time of the green, three seconds for the yellow, and then switches to red. It's red four ways for about two seconds before the other direction gets a green. This isn't unusual but not all that common either. I'd like to be able to have it switch to green immediately as soon as the other direction gets a red. Small niggles though. Seems pretty durable as well since I accidentally left it on one night and it was still doing its thing the next afternoon. :D Oh, yeah, the standard color is black but I painted mine yellow since that's the normal color down here. Makes the light stand out a little more too.

Crandell, thanks for the compliment. I couldn't get your trackwork and mountain scenery done in three lifetimes either. Hey, maybe if we built a joint layout, we could get it done in one lifetime. :)

Jeffrey, you need a dump truck and skip loader next.

Josh, the common traffic light in California are those on arms mounted to street light poles, four per intersection, as you say. This is really only common in the west. Down here, they are just starting the practice on new construction. Most traffic lights are multiple heads mounted on wires that go across the intersection. There's nothing to secure them from blowing in the wind and we lose a few with every bad wind storm. I can only imagine after a hurricane. :eek: The duration of red all around before changing is also completely non-standard, with Walthers taking its cue from the west. Most of our lights change instantly from red one direction to green the opposite direction. Our traffic lights in Prattville are all black and the ones in Montgomery, the next city over, and most of Alabama, are yellow. You'd think they could standardize all this and save a few bucks somewhere.

BOC, I know exactly the type of light you're asking about. Sometimes they'd be yellow all the way around, red all the way around, or red one direction and yellow the opposite direction. I have my Life-Like traffic lights set so they will flash yellow if a train is on the downtown spur. I have never seen a working model of one of these, which is strange, since there are thousands around North America. You could probably make one with a hollow block of styrene and four surface mount LED's hooked to a flasher under the layout. Concealing the wires would be a challenge. Now that I think about it, you could use one of the 360 degree LED's with lenses on four sides so you only have one set of wires to contend with. It would be a neat project if you wanted to work on it. I'll bet it would have some commercial value as well considering how well the Walthers traffic lights have been selling.

Ken, nice street scene. It looks like your lights are the original Walthers colors. Painting mine yellow without sloping any paint on the LED's was a real pain. I also painted the support pole flat black so it looked more like a typical light hanging from wires in the intersection. I just took my picture and took what came. It would be nice if the Walthers controller would let you stop the light on one color. I blew two shots because the lense happened to open just as the green was changing to yellow and got both colors in the picture. It looked weird. :)

Jon, I don't know about the railroad police, that Rico guy sure seems to get around. :) That is the best, all-time coolest auto truss bridge I've ever seen. Wood deck bridges like that used to be very common and yours is the only one I've ever seen modeled. Are you planning to put street lights hanging from middle of the span? That would make the bridge perfect. Great job!

There used to be a company that made an even more modern looking traffic signal system that was featured in Model Railroader about 10 or 15 years ago. It had the usual red yellow green configuration, but it also had the extra lights for the left turn lanes in the middle. The control unit the company made for it worked just like the prototype. Including giving the green arrow for those turning for the turn lane. It was a very cool product and I never heard anything about it since.

Plus, since the thought of flashing the yellows when a train is present nearby. I know there is a guy that posts videos of his layout on Youtube featuring a intersection right near a RR crossing. He has a traffic light system that uses those small flashing white lights that emergency vehicles light up when they are approaching during an emergency situation. Just like the protoypes around here at least. All of our traffic lights in MN have a small white light next to the red yellow and green portion that will start flashing when an emergency vehicle is coming with its siren and/or lights are on. Thus giving greens to the direction the emergency vehicle is heading.

The same goes for some of our RR crossings that are near an intersection. The crossing will turn on not only the gates and flashing crossbucks. But also activate the white flashing lights and turn the roadway crossing the tracks red and give green to the parallel street. There is a crossing not far from me that actually crosses an intersection right through the middle of the thing almost diagnally. Its quite something to see when a train approaches.

Here is the video. However, he hasnt wired it so as to keep one direction red while the train is crossing the road. Which he admits in the comment section, there isnt anything out there that would enable this type of feature into the lights to work that way. Sorry about the long winded post.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjseOKps_FQ&feature=channel_page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw4lRlTfrUI&feature=fvw
 
This thread is closed for the posting of photos. Comments however can still be posted. To post photos please use the most current WPF thread.
 
SS, that flashing white light thing must be local to Minnesota or at least that area of the country as I've never seen it anywhere else in the country. It's a neat idea but a motorist would have to know what those flashing white lights mean to understand what to do. In California, we had a strobe on top of the car that truned on when we activated the light bar. On traffic signals equipped with a receiver, all directions would turn red, although you still were careful going through the intersection. For intersections next to railroad crossings, the direction crossing the tracks would turn red and the parallel direction would either turn green or go to flashing yellow. There's apparently a lot of variation in how this situation is handled across the country.

I don't remember seeing the signal with the left arrow but that would be a nice touch. The Walthers controllers pattern is fixed and there's now easy way I can see to change it. The only thing you could do is run additional wires from the Tortoise auxillary outputs to the red hook up when the gates are activated. That would keep the red lights on but the controller would continue to cycle through the rest of the pattern, which looks kind of dumb. It's too bad that Walthers didn't think about this since it wouldn't be hard to add this option when building the hardware and the controller's not cheap to begin with.
 




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