Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Thank you, coming from you that means a lot, I'll be grinning from ear to ear for a month at least now.
I've left it as is and added a couple of dull coats to it.
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
- Thread starter TLOC
- Start date
ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I've left it as is and added a couple of dull coats to it.
Even better with weathering.
I'm going to jump on a few of the second run GATX. I see Overland Hobbies has them up for pre-order.
I am weathering 100 intermodal containers. 10 of them got hand weathered this afternoon and evening by brush. The other 90 tomorrow will get done by the airbrush. I first though have 3 practice cars to work with first.
I am now in the 50’s of the number of Aurora Miniatures I have weathered. I purchased a case of 18 and they sold immediately. I have 8 more currently to do after the 2 I am working on are approved. I have not found an issue with any of them yet. Well done models.
What did you use as colors for weathering the trucks and wheel faces?
I’ve got some of my early weathering attempts (some wood and steel boxcars) that are begging for a do-over.
WHEELS
1. drop wheels into a jar with Isopropyl Alcohol 70% solution for a minute or 2
2. pick wheels out of the jar and wipe entirely with IPA damp paper towel
3. let air dry
4. apply with a brush Panzer Aces by Vallejo #301 light rust
5. let air dry
6. apply with a brush but with a dabbing motion Panzer Aces by Vallejo #302 dark rust
7. let air dry
TRUCKS
1. ream journal holes with truck turner, mine is from Micro-Mark #82838
2. drop trucks into a jar of 70% IPA for a minute or 2
3. dry with a hair dryer set to the low heat setting
4. apply with a brush Panzer Aces by Vallejo #301 light rust
5. let air dry
6. With a brush apply Pan Pastel # 340.1 permanent Red extra dark
7. with a dry brush blend the Pan Pastel to your liking
8. Optional, since I do not handle my cars too often once on the layout I skip this. Spray Testors DullCote
lightly as too much MAY dissolve the Pan Pastel. If the cars are to be sold or a commission they are always lightly clear coated
Put the wheels into the trucks and the wheelsets are almost complete. But there is almost always paint on the thread, I dip a paper towel with 70% IPA and run the wheels through the wet portion of the towel. Then run the wheels through the dry portion of the paper towel. The wheel should be clean and the process is completed.
THAT IS MY BASIC METHOD
I have found that sometimes to clean the wheel thread requires a light grit sanding twig or stick, usually 1000grit is enough to remove the paint and not damage the wheel. I also do the sanding stick or twig for the outer edge of the wheel faces. I was told even cars that are noted not to be humped generally get humped, so I now also remove the paint from that wheel face edge. The retarders on the hump breaking system knock that rust off. Your choice
when I have a single client with multiple cars to do I will use an airbrush with Tamiya paint instead of Vallejo hand brushing. The cleaning is still the same process and every truck set get the reaming…
Hope this helps
The bar stock, whether it be rebar or machining stock, would be in the gondola not many days, I would think, and wouldn’t incur much in the way of aging. Perhaps some grime and light spotting/streaking from rain. With the newer, cleaner-emission generation of locomotives, the exhaust-supplied grime might be minimal.
That vivid blue on the real steel rod looks like maybe a shipping wrap, or perhaps a color-coding paint to indicate a grade of bar.
It’s a moving target but right now 2020. I like the modern stuff.
On the switching layout I had equipment for a 2005 modeling year and another set for 2015. I started selling off the 2005 session equipment and now because of all the stuff built after 2015 I am looking at 2020 minus 30 years. But my diesels don’t seem to count, they are basically gp40-2w or L’s and gp38-2’s all built before my modeling era. I’m not that big a stickler but putting the years 1990 to 2020 makes me concentrate on purchases and not just buy what I like
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)
- Status
I've left it as is and added a couple of dull coats to it.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Had to buy a new tool for the weathering and painting departments. Actual price $99 and change
Told Terry since I am now spending part of November’s budget that this is an emergency business expense.
The 2 air brushes I use for clear coating are out of commission with one Badger saying in 2019 they could not repair it anymore. Purchased new in 1975 or right before I got married In 1976. It died earlier this week. After testing and adjusting the Paasche this afternoon I finished the clear coating that is here to be weathered for commissions, 70 pieces of rolling stock, 100 containers, 2 diesel locomotives and 10 of my own pieces. Based on the schedule I have plotted out this will keep me busy at least until USA Thanksgiving. Last week on Wednesday I barely had enough to get me through October. I never know! Except for 2 caboose and 3 sulfur cars the remaining numbers are repeat client commissions.
The 100 containers and 2-5 car sets of intermodal cars will be the first things out the door even though they came in last. He is somewhat local (40 miles) and probably my #1 client, but for sure top 3 and was my biggest occasional PITA. We have butted heads a few times over the last 18 months and I have fired him twice. He finally settled down when I went out to our new house in July and he with his crew were building a stone fence for us. I never said a word that i was doing his intermodal equipment. His daughter who does his deliveries and pick ups to me delivered his lunch to him and the crew while I was there and said hi. She then introduced me as the guy doing all his weathering. I think he was in shock for a few minutes and his daughter later told me the look on his face was priceless to her. He’s been a peach since. His 100 containers and 10 well cars will get my budgets back in line!
Tomorrow morning I will be spraying all the wheel sets that are now set up in my jigs. I also will spray the truck frames that are clipped on an alligator clip. I will spray the wheel faces, axles and inside of the wheels. In the late afternoon after volleyball on campus I will finish the spraying.
Monday I will start dry brushing every truck frame and wheel face with a rust mixture. I should be done on Tuesday by noon. I have a layout test event in the afternoon. After dinner I will reassemble the wheel-sets and trucks.
Wednesday and Thursday are fade days for the intermodal equipment.
Told Terry since I am now spending part of November’s budget that this is an emergency business expense.
The 2 air brushes I use for clear coating are out of commission with one Badger saying in 2019 they could not repair it anymore. Purchased new in 1975 or right before I got married In 1976. It died earlier this week. After testing and adjusting the Paasche this afternoon I finished the clear coating that is here to be weathered for commissions, 70 pieces of rolling stock, 100 containers, 2 diesel locomotives and 10 of my own pieces. Based on the schedule I have plotted out this will keep me busy at least until USA Thanksgiving. Last week on Wednesday I barely had enough to get me through October. I never know! Except for 2 caboose and 3 sulfur cars the remaining numbers are repeat client commissions.
The 100 containers and 2-5 car sets of intermodal cars will be the first things out the door even though they came in last. He is somewhat local (40 miles) and probably my #1 client, but for sure top 3 and was my biggest occasional PITA. We have butted heads a few times over the last 18 months and I have fired him twice. He finally settled down when I went out to our new house in July and he with his crew were building a stone fence for us. I never said a word that i was doing his intermodal equipment. His daughter who does his deliveries and pick ups to me delivered his lunch to him and the crew while I was there and said hi. She then introduced me as the guy doing all his weathering. I think he was in shock for a few minutes and his daughter later told me the look on his face was priceless to her. He’s been a peach since. His 100 containers and 10 well cars will get my budgets back in line!
Tomorrow morning I will be spraying all the wheel sets that are now set up in my jigs. I also will spray the truck frames that are clipped on an alligator clip. I will spray the wheel faces, axles and inside of the wheels. In the late afternoon after volleyball on campus I will finish the spraying.
Monday I will start dry brushing every truck frame and wheel face with a rust mixture. I should be done on Tuesday by noon. I have a layout test event in the afternoon. After dinner I will reassemble the wheel-sets and trucks.
Wednesday and Thursday are fade days for the intermodal equipment.
Last edited:
TLOC
Well-Known Member
This is a review, sort of a rant and a I should have known better!
See the above Paasche air brush purchase. I’m not a happy paint brush user. I should have ordered what I am used to online and waited but no…
The air brush while it had a good feel to me is now awkward. The gravity feed syphon feed paint cup is an angled thing I have to get used to. I have spilled much paint and clear coating material the last couple days. The spray patterns even with the smallest nozzle of 3 tips seems too big. I have done the usual things like lowering the airbrush pressure but then it starts splattering. The splattering is the most disturbing as I can adjust to the other things. The paint cup is too small and it sits at an angle. But, I will get used to!
This brush once my new Badger replacement comes in will become the dedicated clear coating airbrush.
I have a new Patriot Extreme 105 coming and my other air brush is being repaired and cleaned per the warranty email from Badger this afternoon. It has a cracked tip and the needle is fine.
See the above Paasche air brush purchase. I’m not a happy paint brush user. I should have ordered what I am used to online and waited but no…
The air brush while it had a good feel to me is now awkward. The gravity feed syphon feed paint cup is an angled thing I have to get used to. I have spilled much paint and clear coating material the last couple days. The spray patterns even with the smallest nozzle of 3 tips seems too big. I have done the usual things like lowering the airbrush pressure but then it starts splattering. The splattering is the most disturbing as I can adjust to the other things. The paint cup is too small and it sits at an angle. But, I will get used to!
This brush once my new Badger replacement comes in will become the dedicated clear coating airbrush.
I have a new Patriot Extreme 105 coming and my other air brush is being repaired and cleaned per the warranty email from Badger this afternoon. It has a cracked tip and the needle is fine.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Hi!
Here is a lightly weathered Aurora Minatures high cube Boxcar
Faded, client supplied decals and per explicted instructions lightly weathered beyond the fade and a dusting along the lower sill, no rust, just dirt!
Took these and 12 other pictures for client approval and he decided he wanted more…
So I did this
The last picture those panels need to be fixed and they have been but are drying. Once this is ok’d I will post a final picture and colors used if interested
Back to the locomotive shown in picture 6
next
Here is a lightly weathered Aurora Minatures high cube Boxcar
Faded, client supplied decals and per explicted instructions lightly weathered beyond the fade and a dusting along the lower sill, no rust, just dirt!
Took these and 12 other pictures for client approval and he decided he wanted more…
So I did this
The last picture those panels need to be fixed and they have been but are drying. Once this is ok’d I will post a final picture and colors used if interested
Back to the locomotive shown in picture 6
next
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Something for me. A Scaletrains Kit Classic gondola for $15.00. Added Kadee couplers, changed the plastic ladder stirrups to wire, added custom wire cut levels, replaced the wheels with Walthers Proto and then took a soldering iron to it. Needed some dents and bumps. Sanded the interior and then added plastic putty to the interior side walls. Let it dry and sanded it. Added more putty and it’s drying. Finally chipped the Soo Line letters.
Something different but a fun car
Something different but a fun car
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
I have the Paasche H. Never cared for the internal mix they are a bit more to clean. I'm surprised it didn't come with a #1 tip for weathering. I have a #1, #3, and #5.
migalyto
Well-Known Member
Those Aurora Minatures boxcars look really good!
Even better with weathering.
I'm going to jump on a few of the second run GATX. I see Overland Hobbies has them up for pre-order.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Yes, I have the 1,3 and 5. I put in the #1 right after my rant! I haven’t tried it other than to blow clear water through it.
I am weathering 100 intermodal containers. 10 of them got hand weathered this afternoon and evening by brush. The other 90 tomorrow will get done by the airbrush. I first though have 3 practice cars to work with first.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I mentioned this somewhere before. I really think this set of Aurora Miniature high cubes are the nicest best detailed cars I have worked with. Nicer than Scaletrain and Tangent quality cars.
I am now in the 50’s of the number of Aurora Miniatures I have weathered. I purchased a case of 18 and they sold immediately. I have 8 more currently to do after the 2 I am working on are approved. I have not found an issue with any of them yet. Well done models.
C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
What did you use as colors for weathering the trucks and wheel faces?
I’ve got some of my early weathering attempts (some wood and steel boxcars) that are begging for a do-over.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Here is the wheel and truck process:
WHEELS
1. drop wheels into a jar with Isopropyl Alcohol 70% solution for a minute or 2
2. pick wheels out of the jar and wipe entirely with IPA damp paper towel
3. let air dry
4. apply with a brush Panzer Aces by Vallejo #301 light rust
5. let air dry
6. apply with a brush but with a dabbing motion Panzer Aces by Vallejo #302 dark rust
7. let air dry
TRUCKS
1. ream journal holes with truck turner, mine is from Micro-Mark #82838
2. drop trucks into a jar of 70% IPA for a minute or 2
3. dry with a hair dryer set to the low heat setting
4. apply with a brush Panzer Aces by Vallejo #301 light rust
5. let air dry
6. With a brush apply Pan Pastel # 340.1 permanent Red extra dark
7. with a dry brush blend the Pan Pastel to your liking
8. Optional, since I do not handle my cars too often once on the layout I skip this. Spray Testors DullCote
lightly as too much MAY dissolve the Pan Pastel. If the cars are to be sold or a commission they are always lightly clear coated
Put the wheels into the trucks and the wheelsets are almost complete. But there is almost always paint on the thread, I dip a paper towel with 70% IPA and run the wheels through the wet portion of the towel. Then run the wheels through the dry portion of the paper towel. The wheel should be clean and the process is completed.
THAT IS MY BASIC METHOD
I have found that sometimes to clean the wheel thread requires a light grit sanding twig or stick, usually 1000grit is enough to remove the paint and not damage the wheel. I also do the sanding stick or twig for the outer edge of the wheel faces. I was told even cars that are noted not to be humped generally get humped, so I now also remove the paint from that wheel face edge. The retarders on the hump breaking system knock that rust off. Your choice
when I have a single client with multiple cars to do I will use an airbrush with Tamiya paint instead of Vallejo hand brushing. The cleaning is still the same process and every truck set get the reaming…
Hope this helps
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Another Center Partition car by Atlas. Utah Central Railway #600128
It’s a brown car and the client wants me to weather it like I do the yellow ones I have done for him and others, here is a previous yellow car
very hard to get that without repainting the car. So I try to highlite the orange rust
without over doing it. More of a hint! the end panels need more work, maybe lots more fading?
Always fun when a regular client throws the curveball at me
Colors used to fade
80% of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
20% of Tamiya x-2
No x-21 base added
this mix was sprayed, let dry maybe 5 minutes and done until satisfied, like 5 times
The car floor is
1-Vallejo Model color #70.872 Chocolate brown, 100% not thinned dry brushed in spots
2-Vallejo Panzer Aces #301 light rust, thinned 50/50 with tap water
I slather on water to the floor first, then add-on the 301 Light rust in a dabbing motion
3-before the 301 dries I add 302 Panzer Aces #302 Dark rust thinned 50/50 with water and dab that on in spots
I make NO ATTEMPT at blending as the water will do that for me
Now we wait for the client
BUT, I have 2 of these I am doing at the same time, the same way. The 2nd car will be sent to my client list 1st and then out to EBay. I personally have enough Centerbeams plus I have waited forever it seems for Rapido to produce their unit
It’s a brown car and the client wants me to weather it like I do the yellow ones I have done for him and others, here is a previous yellow car
very hard to get that without repainting the car. So I try to highlite the orange rust
without over doing it. More of a hint! the end panels need more work, maybe lots more fading?
Always fun when a regular client throws the curveball at me
Colors used to fade
80% of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
20% of Tamiya x-2
No x-21 base added
this mix was sprayed, let dry maybe 5 minutes and done until satisfied, like 5 times
The car floor is
1-Vallejo Model color #70.872 Chocolate brown, 100% not thinned dry brushed in spots
2-Vallejo Panzer Aces #301 light rust, thinned 50/50 with tap water
I slather on water to the floor first, then add-on the 301 Light rust in a dabbing motion
3-before the 301 dries I add 302 Panzer Aces #302 Dark rust thinned 50/50 with water and dab that on in spots
I make NO ATTEMPT at blending as the water will do that for me
Now we wait for the client
BUT, I have 2 of these I am doing at the same time, the same way. The 2nd car will be sent to my client list 1st and then out to EBay. I personally have enough Centerbeams plus I have waited forever it seems for Rapido to produce their unit
Last edited:
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
After looking at several colors of steel blue I made an attempt at it. I added some light rust to dull and give it some detail. Not real happy with the result but, it looks good going by. I added the pic of the real steel rod in the car.
C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
The bar stock, whether it be rebar or machining stock, would be in the gondola not many days, I would think, and wouldn’t incur much in the way of aging. Perhaps some grime and light spotting/streaking from rain. With the newer, cleaner-emission generation of locomotives, the exhaust-supplied grime might be minimal.
That vivid blue on the real steel rod looks like maybe a shipping wrap, or perhaps a color-coding paint to indicate a grade of bar.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
The Atlas Center Partition cars are completed and the one for the client has been packaged up for the USPS
I have written this before, these are nicely detailed cars, are very light and don’t roll well out of the box. Add some weight, ream out the trucks and they become very nice additions to the layout. I purchased 2 of UCRR #600128 as I generally do when I plan to sell at least one.
Both cars were done somewhat the same but here is the one I plan to currently keep if it doesn‘t sell on FB:
I have another Center Partition car that will include an Aluminum billet load and the many tie down these cars use. I used to work for 3 years between Window Manufacturing management jobs for an Aluminum extruder and we would receive 6”, 9” and 12” billets via rail on Centerbeam cars.
I have written this before, these are nicely detailed cars, are very light and don’t roll well out of the box. Add some weight, ream out the trucks and they become very nice additions to the layout. I purchased 2 of UCRR #600128 as I generally do when I plan to sell at least one.
Both cars were done somewhat the same but here is the one I plan to currently keep if it doesn‘t sell on FB:
I have another Center Partition car that will include an Aluminum billet load and the many tie down these cars use. I used to work for 3 years between Window Manufacturing management jobs for an Aluminum extruder and we would receive 6”, 9” and 12” billets via rail on Centerbeam cars.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Cars 9 and 10 of a string of 12 Aurora Miniature boxcars. These 2 are staying on the layout as part of my roster
Then this morning another commission for 1 showed up. Since I am terrible at the before pictures I took AOK 115045 out of the box before cleaning and fading. The picture of the 3 gives a good idea as to how much the weathered cars appearances have changed
Then this morning another commission for 1 showed up. Since I am terrible at the before pictures I took AOK 115045 out of the box before cleaning and fading. The picture of the 3 gives a good idea as to how much the weathered cars appearances have changed
migalyto
Well-Known Member
AirbrushNo5
Well-Known Member
Great videos Tom
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks
It’s a moving target but right now 2020. I like the modern stuff.
On the switching layout I had equipment for a 2005 modeling year and another set for 2015. I started selling off the 2005 session equipment and now because of all the stuff built after 2015 I am looking at 2020 minus 30 years. But my diesels don’t seem to count, they are basically gp40-2w or L’s and gp38-2’s all built before my modeling era. I’m not that big a stickler but putting the years 1990 to 2020 makes me concentrate on purchases and not just buy what I like
TLOC
Well-Known Member
A Scaletrains Kit Classic Soo Line gondola
Beat up with soldering pencil, Tamiya plastic added inside the load bay side walls and sanded as noted on Monday 10/16 posting
Cleaned with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
the outside side walls were initially sprayed clear coated with Army Painters Air Clear matte
after drying I hand brushed AK streaking grime #AK012, let dry 15 minutes and did again and let dry over night
the inside walls and the floor are Vallejo colors, hand brushed
71.040 Air burnt umber 50/50 mix with tap water
302 Panzer Aces Dark rust 25/75 mix with tap water
70.981 Model color orange brown no thinning but dry brushed in spots
I didn’t really wait for each color to dry
Still a work in process
Beat up with soldering pencil, Tamiya plastic added inside the load bay side walls and sanded as noted on Monday 10/16 posting
Cleaned with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
the outside side walls were initially sprayed clear coated with Army Painters Air Clear matte
after drying I hand brushed AK streaking grime #AK012, let dry 15 minutes and did again and let dry over night
the inside walls and the floor are Vallejo colors, hand brushed
71.040 Air burnt umber 50/50 mix with tap water
302 Panzer Aces Dark rust 25/75 mix with tap water
70.981 Model color orange brown no thinning but dry brushed in spots
I didn’t really wait for each color to dry
Still a work in process
- Status
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)