Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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The plan was not to spend anytime today weathering…I accomplished that

So pictures of projects finished but not posted before.

Yes, a couple more ARMN reefers. These were purchased clean from me in December as the client didn’t want them weathered. After seeing on Facebook the lightly weathered reefers I did, he sent these back saying weather them. So I did…View attachment 165649
A couple diesels. The BNSF is now completed but not so in this picture. I generally do not test run client equipment. Client said please, so I will run it tomorrow

The CN is mine and I tried to take off the Microscale paint masking I used. Pulled off 2 windshield wipers. Yep, like I needed an excuse to hit the LHS
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Based on the ARMN and road number these trucks and wheelsets are for the above 2 cars. Yes, I painted the wheel faces after this picture was taken.
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I really enjoyed weathering this Walthers Proto line series of a 30,600 gallon tank car. I would rank this just a touch behind Scaletrains Rivet Counter tank cars and definitely far ahead of any Genesis tank car. Over all a better value as it’s $5.00 less than the ST or Genesis pricing. There is a grime base of Tamiya earth tan on the car frame. Followed with Army Painters Matt clear, then Pan Pastels dark umber heavily anpplied around the center panel ladders. Then PP charcoal gray touched on the top of the car and blended lightly with the bigger poofy cosmetic brush.
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The above 2 BNSF cars were heavily faded using VMS Matt clear varnish with 1 drop of Tamiya x-21 base added. Then a very light dusting of a brown grime mix. A edge spray of tan earth on the bottom sill. Some brush work using Vallejo Air burnt umber and light rust on the door hinges, locks and rods. Then another spray of VMS’s Matt clear. A slight rust mix across both roofs. These are the High Cube 60’ cars from Walthers Mainline series.
The art of seriously improving the look with the minimum amount of Paint, that grimy slightly dusty look is something you can do in spades. it takes an excellent eye to do this if learning from scratch.
Plus the desire to help others to shortcut to such skills is generous.

It does help highlight the expertise you put into the goods you sell, and shows others how easy it is not lol. But for those willing to have a go, they have an excellent resource,and an interactive response as they learn. Total kudos to both Toms as they help others on their journey. plus even the best can learn from each other, so there is payback for your efforts.
Great work, long May it last.
 
The art of seriously improving the look with the minimum amount of Paint, that grimy slightly dusty look is something you can do in spades. it takes an excellent eye to do this if learning from scratch.
Plus the desire to help others to shortcut to such skills is generous.

It does help highlight the expertise you put into the goods you sell, and shows others how easy it is not lol. But for those willing to have a go, they have an excellent resource,and an interactive response as they learn. Total kudos to both Toms as they help others on their journey. plus even the best can learn from each other, so there is payback for your efforts.
Great work, long May it last.
JazA thanks for the kindness
 
As I mutter over the gondolas on how I'm going to weather them I started another project. I Got these GWS box cars when Genesis first came out. Starting out by fading the paint. Took a few tries on paper towel to get the fade color I want. I think it turned out pretty good. I have 2 cars so here's a before and after.
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As I mutter over the gondolas on how I'm going to weather them I started another project. I Got these GWS box cars when Genesis first came out. Starting out by fading the paint. Took a few tries on paper towel to get the fade color I want. I think it turned out pretty good. I have 2 cars so here's a before and after.View attachment 165865View attachment 165866
Great fade
 
Hello fans of the weathered…

stuff on the bench
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that is 6 Walthers Mainline series models of yellow TBOX cars. But only 5 different road numbers
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BNSF buffer car. While the road number is incorrect the rest of the data, graffiti pieces and tags are. A long way to go on this one
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These are a Kato articulated stack train unit.
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Genesis Acid car, thankfully the client loves it as he stopped by to check it out tonight. I didn’t like it. The car is very fragile, I didn’t like the pictures he had me to use and finally I didn’t like it, but he does and that’s what counts. The Proto picture showed the car very pitted. You can see around the tagged area it has that pitted type effect. I have 3 more of these to do. 1 is for me and 2 more that he dropped off. He said I can do his 2 however I want.
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Some cars on the table next to the paint booth. These all will receive a clear coat. Either to start the weathering process or complete it

An interesting mix of models. 2 Rivet Counter white tank cars, an Athearn Genesis acid tank car, Bowser spline cars, Kato stack cars, Walthers Mainline TBOX cars
 
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I dropped a spline car! Not pretty and in shock enough I forgot to take pictures. I have the replacement already and will take pictures of the deceased in the morning.

Clear coating for the stack cars, spline cars, yellow TBOX boxcars and white tank cars was completely done and everything is dry

Meanwhile, working 2 at a time I have started on the 6 yellow TBOX cars. Here is one of the 4 sides.
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Why, do this now? I touch these spots and drag down while wet TO HOPEFULLY CREATE an illusion that rust has startEd. There will be no large rust spots on any of these 6 cars. Hinges, brackets, door rod joints and rivets are highlited.

Most of these spots will get blended out when I apply the grime to the car sides. But, some of the orange rust will be noticed, not real noticeable but the hint should be there.

The sides are being done1st. Car sides will be done with a Vallejo wash of colors to be decided. Hand brushed on with clear water applied 1st then the wash mix. Repeat until satisfied.

Then the underside of the car will be hit by a “light” spray of flat black but I will not try to cover all the yellow. The nooks and crevices not covered will get a light spray of hull red. This will give the effect (hopefully) of the reddish rust starting to form without overwhelming the underside of the car with too much black or too much of the hull red. If I like it and since these 2 cars are for a new client, I will send pictures for approval. When approved both the sides and the underside of the car again will be sprayed with a Matt Clear. The pictures will continue through each process or until he says go for it. He does have one of my cars he purchased via Facebook but we have not worked together before on a car.

Then the ends will get a kick up grime coat from the tracks and the bottom edge of the car sides will also get that grime coat. Sprayed on Tamiy Arcylic paint, higher on the ends, tapering down to the doors and back up to the other end.

The plan for the doors are to wait until the grime is applied and review if the doors need more fade or more grime.
Starting with these cars, the roofs will be done after the splatter is applied to both ends. I have found that sometimes the splatter gets to the roof. If the roof is already done it becomes a mess, so i will try it on these 2 cars
 
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I came across this video taken at high elevation. You get a good look at roof tops. How the heat of the engine radiators get so hot they turn white and rust. Hopper cars with replacement hatches and walkways, spillage, gons with loads, all great weathering ideas.
Thank you for sharing. You are so correct about the weathering ideas coming from watching that train. A bit of everything.
 


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the wheels sets are ready for both cars and actually for all 6 yellow TBOX cars
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The 2 front cars have been done with different washes. The car on the left was done using a dark earth color. The car on the right was done using a dirt wash that is a lighter color.

The car in the back has only a clear coat applied and was included so the weathered sides of the foreground cars are noticeable to the client
 
Hi.

I have another 4 yellow TBOX cars on the bench this afternoon as I wait for the roofs of the 2 previous shown dry.

Using completely different colors for the initial fade.
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Then as a comparison I put up a fresh out of the box to see any differences after 2 applications
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1st fade was 3 parts water to 1 part paint or 15 drops of water to 5 paint

2nd application was 2-1

While the pictures do not really show the differences there actually is quite a difference on each car from the out of the box color. Right now as everything dries I prefer car #663173 which I faded using Vallejo Air #61.031 Middlestone

I am it sure any more of the fades washes are needed, let me know your constructive thoughts
 
The last 10 yellow TBOX cars I have to weather. Then it’s onto the stack train well cars and and spline cars. These 10 have the 1st clear coat sprayed and the under frame is sprayed. The fade is next up
Looking forward to the well, and spine cars. I have about 90 to eventually do for myself someday.

Are those transmission towers by the egg cartons the Walthers kit?
 


Looking forward to the well, and spine cars. I have about 90 to eventually do for myself someday.

Are those transmission towers by the egg cartons the Walthers kit?
Yes those are the Walthers towers. Those were on the layout feeding the paper mill power. Now they keep getting in the way. I also have an another new in the box set of them.

I have had issue with finding “good” enough pictures for both the spline and well cars. All pieces have been clear coated. Next thing is the fade. But, there are 78 well cars. I no longer can remember how many spline cars as he keeps sending more. The fade will be done using the airbrush.
 
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