Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

[Horror Business]

Can I get a link to the weathering locomotives thread? Apparently I stink at using the search function. I tried three times and can’t find it.

 

[migalyto]

Can I get a link to the weathering locomotives thread? Apparently I stink at using the search function. I tried three times and can’t find it.

This is it.

Weathering Engines a Continuous thread.

This is to go along with the rolling stock thread. Engines will be the topic here. Information, tips, and how to are welcome. Everyone does weathering different, no right or wrong.

modelrailroadforums.com

 

[Alco251]

It's all gone a bit "Indiana Hi-rail", although I love Alcos I could never get excited about about the various RS six axle models. However IHRC ran various 4 axle Century and GP models some of which inspired the following.

I like these Kato GP 35's, this is one of 3, details based on the ex GN locos BN inherited.

My 2nd is based on an ex ATSF example but is currently buried in a cupboard but will feature soon.

 

[TLOC]

Here are the covered hoppers. One side grimed on the CNLX car.

To compare, the CNIS has just a clear coat added after cleaning.

CNLX will not be grimed much more if at all. I will leave this side and work on the other side. Using a mix of Vallejo Air Burnt Umber and water. The 1st few washes were 70% water 30% burnt umber. The last 2 were 50/50.

 

[TLOC]

It's all gone a bit "Indiana Hi-rail", although I love Alcos I could never get excited about about the various RS six axle models. However IHRC ran various 4 axle Century and GP models some of which inspired the following.View attachment 163250
View attachment 163251
I like these Kato GP 35's, this is one of 3, details based on the ex GN locos BN inherited.
View attachment 163252
My 2nd is based on an ex ATSF example but is currently buried in a cupboard but will feature soon.

Look great

 

[migalyto]

Here are the covered hoppers. One side grimed on the CNLX car.

View attachment 163265To compare, the CNIS has just a clear coat added after cleaning.

CNLX will not be grimed much more if at all. I will leave this side and work on the other side. Using a mix of Vallejo Air Burnt Umber and water. The 1st few washes were 70% water 30% burnt umber. The last 2 were 50/50.

So how do you distinguish what color of wash to use on which car? I assume maybe based on the color, and prototype photos, but could be way off base.

 

[CambriaArea51]

So how do you distinguish what color of wash to use on which car? I assume maybe based on the color, and prototype photos, but could be way off base.

The color and how much you want to fade. A few coats of dull coat will fade a car or in the case of this Conrail hopper I used an acrylic gray and thinned it with water to a wash.

 

[TLOC]

So how do you distinguish what color of wash to use on which car? I assume maybe based on the color, and prototype photos, but could be way off base.

In this case I used a picture of the CNLX to try to match to. This is not a fade but more of a color change in my opinion.

I used VMS matte clear varnish after I cleaned the car. Just one spray coat via the airbrush. I wasn’t going for a fade as such but a change of color without bleeding it out…

I really like to use multiple pictures of the same series of cars. It does not have to be the exact number. Different angles and light can really change what you are looking at.

I picked out earth colors and the burnt umber is what turned out to look best to me. 3 brushed applications of the 70%water/30%color mix with no dry time in between. Then I let it dry 60 minutes.

Next I took a 50/50 mix and brush applied and let dry getting help after 10 minutes with a hair dryer. Repeated until happy. I let the car sides dry open air at least 10 minutes before I use the hair dryer.

 

[migalyto]

Thanks Tom (TLOC), and Tom (CambriaArea51) for the explanations. I can now see how you guys are achieving your desired results, and why you use the techniques you do. I need to reread both the rolling stock, and Locomotive threads and take some notes. It has so many great responses, and tips.

 

[TLOC]

Thanks Tom (TLOC), and Tom (CambriaArea51) for the explanations. I can now see how you guys are achieving your desired results, and why you use the techniques you do. I need to reread both the rolling stock, and Locomotive threads and take some notes. It has so many great responses, and tips.

Mike, I think CambriaArea51and others will agree with me on this.

Experiment on the practice cars until you find the fading method, or a color change method YOU can work with.

I don’t enjoy brown or the red oxide cars. I’m still experimenting with them. I have at least 10 more brown to weather. These 2 Covered Hoppers and the 3 for Chris that I showed Monday were faded differently. Like I said, the CNLX car I am showing now is faded or my preference “grimed” using the dark umber as a wash that created to me, a color change. The 3 I did for Chris were faded with the airbrush using a dull coat (matte clear coat). Then I applied washes.

What I am saying is, there are many ways. The first cars I did in this thread were faded using Tamiya X-21 base coat 100% straight brushed from the bottle. I let that dry and then brushed until the chalky white stuff came off. Tedious work but it left a great fade. Now I sometimes use the X-21 base as 2-3 drops max in a fade mix via the air brush.

Chris(Smudge617) will tell you (he’s going through the learning now) and I think everyone will agree, the learning is frustrating. In the end though it is so gratifying.

Have fun

 

[Horror Business]

Thank you.

 

[TLOC]

I received an email asking if I have done a fade using chalks. No! But, I do have a piece of white and a couple gray chalks.

I have used the Pan Pastel Colorless Bender that looks white to me to fade gray, black or white cars

Applied with a sponge and blended using a flat brush.

To seal Pan Pastels I was using Testors Dull Cote in the spray can. It was very aggressive and would if sprayed too heavy dissolve the Pan Pastels. I have also used the PP extra dark gray to fade black cars. I now use VMS’s clear finishes in Matt and gloss varnishes. It is no where near as aggressive as the Testors dull cote was.

I have 25 Pan Pastels colors plus 7 duplicates. Of those I use 11 consistently. Mainly for structure weathering.

 

[TLOC]

I finished some cars today. Here is one

I am calling this one done.

Intermountain ModelRailway Company’s CN Covered Hopper—CNLX #5582 build date early 1970’s

This will hit the Sales forum later today

 

[migalyto]

I finished some cars today. Here is one
View attachment 163687View attachment 163688View attachment 163689View attachment 163690View attachment 163691
I am calling this one done.

Intermountain ModelRailway Company’s CN Covered Hopper—CNLX #5582 build date early 1970’s

This will hit the Sales forum later today

Beautiful job as always!!!

 

[CambriaArea51]

Looks good Tom. I've been trying to find a couple of those type of hoppers but trough style. Very hard to find.

 

[migalyto]

I got my practice cars yesterday. They are older Bachmanns, so no harm if they get ruined in the process. I paid $4.00 and some change a piece shipped for them.

I guess the big question is, which ones are the best to start on?

I will track my progress here if that's fine?

 

[Smudge617]

I got my practice cars yesterday. They are older Bachmanns, so no harm if they get ruined in the process. I paid $4.00 and some change a piece shipped for them.

I guess the big question is, which ones are the best to start on?

I will track my progress here if that's fine?



View attachment 163697View attachment 163698

I found Open Hoppers a good place to start as you have no roof to worry about, also gives you somewhere to practice doing rust on the interior, then onto boxcars, I have a few tank cars which I haven't got round to yet, plus the ones TomO did for me, and obviously those I will never touch.

 

[TLOC]

Beautiful job as always!!!

Thank you

 

[TLOC]

I found Open Hoppers a good place to start as you have no roof to worry about, also gives you somewhere to practice doing rust on the interior, then onto boxcars, I have a few tank cars which I haven't got round to yet, plus the ones TomO did for me, and obviously those I will never touch.

Thanks Chris. At least run the tank cars, once on the track you should not need to touch them!

 

[TLOC]

I got my practice cars yesterday. They are older Bachmanns, so no harm if they get ruined in the process. I paid $4.00 and some change a piece shipped for them.

I guess the big question is, which ones are the best to start on?

I will track my progress here if that's fine?



View attachment 163697View attachment 163698

Do you already know what ”good” car you want to weather. For the practice car then I would pick the one closest to the “good” car’s color.

If you haven’t decided the good car yet, Chris’s suggestion about the open hopper is a good one. Just remember use a clear coat 1st and let it dry over night. Have fun, let the learning curve begin. We are here for you, just ask …