Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
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I use real branches as the tree fall and situate them all across the forest floor.
I also use real branches as tree trunks. There are 2 in the picture. On the layout I had around 2100 wire armature trees built over a 3-4 year period. I have around 250+ branches being used as additional tree trunks that are placed below the wire armatures leaf structure. They are set to disappear into the leaf structure. I had maybe 20 real branches used as tree trunks that I broke them off so it looks like a big wind snap the tree trunk.
It was something I tried because I had so many branches left after I built the pulp wood piles
I dried them in the oven at around 250f degrees placed on a cookie sheet for many hours
What are you using for rust?
If you look at this TBOX car, especially the door rods and hinges I just touched them with a white microbrush loaded with Vallejo Air burnt umber. I immediately used a damp brush and pulled that dot down down the rods. It really shows in person.
The rust to the left of the doors are basically done the same. High up under the door track I put a few dots of burnt umber and immediately with a flat damp brush pulled it down. I repeated a few times making sure the brush was damp.
Because Vallejo is Arcylic it will dry quickly. Make sure the brush is damp. If you want to dampen the panel before adding the rust dots that helps slow down the drying time and may make it easier
I have tried with alcohol (both 70 and 91), and water both. Also just the drop and drag with no moisture. Is it possible I still have too much paint on the brush. I don't blot it before dragging.
I have never tried to wet the car. I will do that.
Or am I using the wrong products?
I then touch the spot I want the rust. Then using another dry or very slightly dampen I quickly pull down on that spot.
I have 3 brushes.
Brush 1 isThe white Microbrush I use to apply the spot
Brush 2 is A dry to drag it down. When done dragging each dot I pull the brush through a dry paper towel. Never 2 dots without wiping on the paper towel
Brush 3 is a slightly damp brush to use if the dots are drying too fast. Cleaned after each time used.
In the example of Yellow TBOX 662166 that’s what I did
Maybe this picture will help. Just finished this with both sides taking maybe 15 minutes
Brown BNSF High Cube. Paint is Vallejo light rust.
Same white microbrush. Just touch the spot, drag with a dry brush straight down. Or use your finger tip!
Next on Sunday is a cleat coat 1st thing.
After that dries I will touch the same spots with burnt umber and drag down.
I will go get a picture of the brushes
That was a great explanation. I was using the same brush for the whole technique, I have a better understanding now, and will try it a different way now.
I didn't mix the powders with anything. I tried to just drag then in a downward motion. Being new to this I was just kind of seeing what I could do with the different products.
I thought you showed your micro brushes. Take the Monroe powders and touch the tip of the brush into the cap. Try streaking with that. It will be a thinner streak and blow the powder off instead of blending. Not sure that is a throw away idea. If I had some I’d try but…
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Jaz avalley
Station cat
I am not surprised if you used those photos
Jaz avalley
Station cat
I just saw something I have overlooked, you used short cut branches and push them in to look like cut down trees.
That is absolutely brilliant, I am SO copying that!
That is absolutely brilliant, I am SO copying that!
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Yep. I used those pictures. Thanks
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Guilty!
I use real branches as the tree fall and situate them all across the forest floor.
I also use real branches as tree trunks. There are 2 in the picture. On the layout I had around 2100 wire armature trees built over a 3-4 year period. I have around 250+ branches being used as additional tree trunks that are placed below the wire armatures leaf structure. They are set to disappear into the leaf structure. I had maybe 20 real branches used as tree trunks that I broke them off so it looks like a big wind snap the tree trunk.
It was something I tried because I had so many branches left after I built the pulp wood piles
I dried them in the oven at around 250f degrees placed on a cookie sheet for many hours
migalyto
Well-Known Member
So,
I worked on this car a little more.
Did the other side with the light earth and hit the bottom with some grimy black.
I then hit both sides with a layer of Dullcote. To my Suprise the effect was not as diminished as I expected.
For a $3 Bachmann car I'm actually growing quite fond of this little 40-footer. I may throw conspicuity stripping from Smokebox graphics on this and run it around for a while.
Still figuring out rust streaks. They are eluding me. I tried turning the brush on its side like recommended.
On to the roof and ends.
What do you think?
I worked on this car a little more.
Did the other side with the light earth and hit the bottom with some grimy black.
I then hit both sides with a layer of Dullcote. To my Suprise the effect was not as diminished as I expected.
For a $3 Bachmann car I'm actually growing quite fond of this little 40-footer. I may throw conspicuity stripping from Smokebox graphics on this and run it around for a while.
Still figuring out rust streaks. They are eluding me. I tried turning the brush on its side like recommended.
On to the roof and ends.
What do you think?
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Very nice job you've done on the car, you may well have found a new vocation for yourself.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I really like the 2nd picture (without the rust streaks). The car side is very well weathered.
What are you using for rust?
If you look at this TBOX car, especially the door rods and hinges I just touched them with a white microbrush loaded with Vallejo Air burnt umber. I immediately used a damp brush and pulled that dot down down the rods. It really shows in person.
The rust to the left of the doors are basically done the same. High up under the door track I put a few dots of burnt umber and immediately with a flat damp brush pulled it down. I repeated a few times making sure the brush was damp.
Because Vallejo is Arcylic it will dry quickly. Make sure the brush is damp. If you want to dampen the panel before adding the rust dots that helps slow down the drying time and may make it easier
migalyto
Well-Known Member
Yea, Let's not get carried away!
migalyto
Well-Known Member
These are the four products I've attempted streaking with.
I have tried with alcohol (both 70 and 91), and water both. Also just the drop and drag with no moisture. Is it possible I still have too much paint on the brush. I don't blot it before dragging.
I have never tried to wet the car. I will do that.
Or am I using the wrong products?
TLOC
Well-Known Member
The white microbrush ( small tipped head) is just touched into the paint. I dab in along the paint reservoir edge to remove some.
I then touch the spot I want the rust. Then using another dry or very slightly dampen I quickly pull down on that spot.
I have 3 brushes.
Brush 1 isThe white Microbrush I use to apply the spot
Brush 2 is A dry to drag it down. When done dragging each dot I pull the brush through a dry paper towel. Never 2 dots without wiping on the paper towel
Brush 3 is a slightly damp brush to use if the dots are drying too fast. Cleaned after each time used.
In the example of Yellow TBOX 662166 that’s what I did
Maybe this picture will help. Just finished this with both sides taking maybe 15 minutes
Brown BNSF High Cube. Paint is Vallejo light rust.
Same white microbrush. Just touch the spot, drag with a dry brush straight down. Or use your finger tip!
Next on Sunday is a cleat coat 1st thing.
After that dries I will touch the same spots with burnt umber and drag down.
I will go get a picture of the brushes
Last edited:
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Here are my brushes I use for dotting the rust. I dI’d not thin the Vallejo light rust or the burnt umbers on this car. I have never used the AIM/Monroe powders, I use Pan Pastels.
These are my dragging brushes
I will drag generally with the flat. Sometimes I will turn the brush on edge.
Mike, this is what works for me. I think you are doing great.
Take some thinner or Isopropyl Alcohol and remove your rust streaks. Just try again.
Don’t thin Vallejo with Isopropyl Alcohol. Either use Vallejo‘s thinner or just plain water. That’s from my experiences.
Did you add a thinner to the Monroe powder and create a sludge? If so remember very light pressure in the stroke. Or, if using the Vallejo you need to work fast, there is not much time to draw/drag down.
You will get it. It’s why u r practicing.
I hope others will chime in. I’m not sure my description of my process is very clear.
Mike, this is what works for me. I think you are doing great.
Take some thinner or Isopropyl Alcohol and remove your rust streaks. Just try again.
Don’t thin Vallejo with Isopropyl Alcohol. Either use Vallejo‘s thinner or just plain water. That’s from my experiences.
Did you add a thinner to the Monroe powder and create a sludge? If so remember very light pressure in the stroke. Or, if using the Vallejo you need to work fast, there is not much time to draw/drag down.
You will get it. It’s why u r practicing.
I hope others will chime in. I’m not sure my description of my process is very clear.
migalyto
Well-Known Member
Tom,
That was a great explanation. I was using the same brush for the whole technique, I have a better understanding now, and will try it a different way now.
I didn't mix the powders with anything. I tried to just drag then in a downward motion. Being new to this I was just kind of seeing what I could do with the different products.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Not having worked with the Aim/Monroe powders I’m not sure if you need to mix them with anything for the streaking. Pan Pastels is a definite NO. I know some of AK Interactive‘s stuff (pigments) you can add thinner, IPA or I think even water. Stick to one method. You will get there
I thought you showed your micro brushes. Take the Monroe powders and touch the tip of the brush into the cap. Try streaking with that. It will be a thinner streak and blow the powder off instead of blending. Not sure that is a throw away idea. If I had some I’d try but…
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
I used the micro brush (super fine) to get these streak effect on these two hoppers with the Monroe powders, then blend with a soft brush.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Looks super Tom
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