flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Thanks, Lynnb! I do hope to be a bit more productive this year!
The Union Pacific Soggy Bottoms Subdivision (HO scale)
- Thread starter flyboy2610
- Start date
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I used them to bring the height of the yard tracks up to mainline height, because going down to tabletop level in such a sort space would have resulted in a severe angle for the track, and everything would have been constantly derailing!
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flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I've been laying down the cork tiles. They're 12" x 12" tiles.
The white you see is spackling paste. Due to the mainline not being plumb-line straight, some of the edges didn't match up perfectly. I filled the larger gaps, and smoothed the paste with a (gloved) finger dipped in water. I'll let the paste dry overnight.
Tomorrow I'll use my 24" flat sanding bar, made from 2 pieces of aluminum angle riveted back to back, and sand down the spackling paste and a few high spots in the cork tiles.
I'm going to paint the cork tiles with a tan/beige color, Dusty Trail by name. I bought a gallon of Lucite paint at Menards, cost me $16. That's good, cheap paint for scenery purposes! Also in the pic is my sanding bar (being interested in RC planes (though not currently very active)) does have it's advantages.
I plan to trim the cork back about 1/2" from the inset 2 x 2 the hinge is screwed to. That will leave plenty of room for the control panel swing vertically and not hit the cork.
I also had a pleasant surprise today: the post office delivered my Peco SL90 double slip today! Today is a federal holiday, the post offices are closed. It wasn't supposed to be here until tomorrow!
If I hadn't gotten on Midwest Model Railroad's website and checked on the status of the order, I never would have know that the post office dropped it outside my front door! But it's mine, all mine, now!
Once I get the cork painted I can start laying the turnouts for the yard.
The white you see is spackling paste. Due to the mainline not being plumb-line straight, some of the edges didn't match up perfectly. I filled the larger gaps, and smoothed the paste with a (gloved) finger dipped in water. I'll let the paste dry overnight.
Tomorrow I'll use my 24" flat sanding bar, made from 2 pieces of aluminum angle riveted back to back, and sand down the spackling paste and a few high spots in the cork tiles.
I'm going to paint the cork tiles with a tan/beige color, Dusty Trail by name. I bought a gallon of Lucite paint at Menards, cost me $16. That's good, cheap paint for scenery purposes! Also in the pic is my sanding bar (being interested in RC planes (though not currently very active)) does have it's advantages.
I plan to trim the cork back about 1/2" from the inset 2 x 2 the hinge is screwed to. That will leave plenty of room for the control panel swing vertically and not hit the cork.
I also had a pleasant surprise today: the post office delivered my Peco SL90 double slip today! Today is a federal holiday, the post offices are closed. It wasn't supposed to be here until tomorrow!
If I hadn't gotten on Midwest Model Railroad's website and checked on the status of the order, I never would have know that the post office dropped it outside my front door! But it's mine, all mine, now!
Once I get the cork painted I can start laying the turnouts for the yard.
Last edited:
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Looks good.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Thank you!
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Yea, it would!
I used them to bring the height of the yard tracks up to mainline height, because going down to tabletop level in such a sort space would have resulted in a severe angle for the track, and everything would have been constantly derailing!
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I got a coat of paint down on the cork tiles. Originally I was planning to do 2 coats, but I kind of like the texture of the cork with just one coat. I'm afraid if I give them another coat it will hide the texture, so I think I'll just do one coat.
I would not recommend putting the contents of that syrup bottle on your morning pancakes. It's Titebond wood glue, and there's not enough All-Bran in the world to help you then!
Knowhutimean, Vern?
I would not recommend putting the contents of that syrup bottle on your morning pancakes. It's Titebond wood glue, and there's not enough All-Bran in the world to help you then!
Knowhutimean, Vern?
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Oh, Pooh.
Me benchwork be 'umped!
I started laying out the track work for the yard and discovered a bit of an anomaly. The pen is laying on the turnout at the throw bar. The turnout frog is to the left in this pic.
The camera angle makes it look more severe than it actually is. The turnout itself is on flat ground, so I don't think this will present to much of an issue, but I'd prefer it be flat all the way across. Trains won't be coming across here at 90 miles per hour, either. I guess I'll continue and see how it goes. If I have to come back and rework this spot I will.
This is L-girder benchwork, so this isn't supposed to happen! But it did.
Me benchwork be 'umped!
I started laying out the track work for the yard and discovered a bit of an anomaly. The pen is laying on the turnout at the throw bar. The turnout frog is to the left in this pic.
The camera angle makes it look more severe than it actually is. The turnout itself is on flat ground, so I don't think this will present to much of an issue, but I'd prefer it be flat all the way across. Trains won't be coming across here at 90 miles per hour, either. I guess I'll continue and see how it goes. If I have to come back and rework this spot I will.
This is L-girder benchwork, so this isn't supposed to happen! But it did.
Like how your layout is looking! (UP and GN layout here
Rico
BNSF Modeller
Wow that does look severe with that angle!
Normally I’d sand down the peak of the hump in this situation but I’ve also built up the roadbed at times which I think you could here.
Try a series of small shims to the right of the turnout to lesson the hump.
Just a note… when I worked for one of the short lines here there was a guy on the tamper who lifted the track way too high as he was going. By the time it was noticed it was a few feet over a distance. The solution was to dump ballast past that point and slowly bring it back down, like the shim idea.
To this day there’s a grade to nowhere up and back down on that spot!
Normally I’d sand down the peak of the hump in this situation but I’ve also built up the roadbed at times which I think you could here.
Try a series of small shims to the right of the turnout to lesson the hump.
Just a note… when I worked for one of the short lines here there was a guy on the tamper who lifted the track way too high as he was going. By the time it was noticed it was a few feet over a distance. The solution was to dump ballast past that point and slowly bring it back down, like the shim idea.
To this day there’s a grade to nowhere up and back down on that spot!
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
The camera angle makes it look worse than it really is, but the caboose will roll by itself for a couple inches on that track. I'll go with it as is for now, but if it causes problem I'll "dig" into it a bit deeper.
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
About the bump, the underlying wood will expand/contract some with changes in humidity. A good reason to leave a few expansion joints where wood butts up against anything, or track for that matter. Not sure how the cork is going to react, whether it is more stable or if that will soak up or shed moisture as well
Dave LASM
Dave LASM
ShadowNix
UP and GN Modeler
Yeah I learned that the hard way...gaps every 4 ft or so for me...otherwise...yikes... yeah...it was ugly...
otiscnj
Well-Known Member
You know, that track on the grade, at the rear, you could put behind a view block, and extend it, around the entire room, so you can add a second level, and double the size of your layout without expanding into a larger foot print. If you go around the room, maybe twice or 3 times, you might get enough space to make it worth your while. I mean Nebraska is a big state, right?Only 3-1/2 months since my last post here. That's not TOO bad, I guess.
I've been working on the layout when I could get the time, which hasn't been too often lately. I've been busy with work and other things.
I finally got the the track down for the passenger station and the rest of the inner loop. I haven't tested it yet because I still need to install the feeders for those tracks. It's a little chilly down here today, and my knee is telling me there's a cold front moving in, so I really don't feel like getting under the layout today.
The file is pointing at the start of the "new" section of track I just laid down. It goes away from the camera around the curve
View attachment 138474
and to the turnout. I had laid the turnout earlier because I needed to know where to put the entrance for the yard. From that turnout the "new" section goes to the turnout farther down the line, by the bridge. If you look waaaay down the the track, you'll see the diverging route of a turnout facing the camera. That's where the yard will connect to the inner loop.
View attachment 138475
That pile of 1 x 2's is for the frame of the control panel i need to build. My plan is to inset a 2 x 2 into the edge of the layout, then use 1 x 2's on edge for the frame. The frame will get a sheet of 1/4" material, I haven't decided yet between plywood and tempered hardboard. I have a concern that the plywood could warp, although painting both sides would help that not happen. The control panel will be 8 feet long and 15" high, secured to the inset 2 x 2 with a piano hinge the whole 8 feet. I plan to build it so the bottom of the panel is farther out than the top, but will decide how far out when I build it.
And this is the passenger siding to the left of the mainline.
View attachment 138476
Tuesday through Thursday it's supposed to be in the 50's outside, so I'll probably get the feeders installed after work on those days, since by the time I get home there's not enough daylight left to really do anything outside.
Progress is slow, but it's gettin' there!
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I got the 2 turnouts in the left end of the yard installed. They are on the right in this pic.
I also laid the caboose track, and installed a Kadee between-the-rails uncoupling magnet. That will be 'disguised' as a grade crossing for the tower. The tower is from a box of unwanted structures I bought at a train show a few years ago. It's lit, but I don't know if the light works. Gonna have to check that one 'a these days.
Between the turnout and the caboose track I installed a short length of 30" radius track I've had for a while. Don't remember where I got it. I put it in to angle the track away from the mainline, so the track could be longer. Had a little issue getting the hole for the frog wire in just the right spot.
That turnout, and as a result the rest of the yard, is electrically isolated from the main. Note the plastic rail joiners on 3 of the 4 rails. I did that because I eventually plan to divide the layout into 4 power districts: the 2 mains will be one district, the yard another, the north industrial area the 3rd, and the south industrial area the 4th. I also left a 1/16" gap between the turnout and caboose track for an expansion joint
This is the turnout leading into the yard itself. The track coming off the straight route is the departure track, the track coming off the diverging route is the arrival track.
I really need to get started on the control panel. The 3 turnouts in the first pic have their Tortoise switch machines installed, but they're not wired up yet.
Gotta get at that.
I also laid the caboose track, and installed a Kadee between-the-rails uncoupling magnet. That will be 'disguised' as a grade crossing for the tower. The tower is from a box of unwanted structures I bought at a train show a few years ago. It's lit, but I don't know if the light works. Gonna have to check that one 'a these days.
Between the turnout and the caboose track I installed a short length of 30" radius track I've had for a while. Don't remember where I got it. I put it in to angle the track away from the mainline, so the track could be longer. Had a little issue getting the hole for the frog wire in just the right spot.
That turnout, and as a result the rest of the yard, is electrically isolated from the main. Note the plastic rail joiners on 3 of the 4 rails. I did that because I eventually plan to divide the layout into 4 power districts: the 2 mains will be one district, the yard another, the north industrial area the 3rd, and the south industrial area the 4th. I also left a 1/16" gap between the turnout and caboose track for an expansion joint
This is the turnout leading into the yard itself. The track coming off the straight route is the departure track, the track coming off the diverging route is the arrival track.
I really need to get started on the control panel. The 3 turnouts in the first pic have their Tortoise switch machines installed, but they're not wired up yet.
Gotta get at that.
Lynnb
Well-Known Member
The yard is looking good, I’ve done that technique in the past , busy a length of cork from the hardware store , I think I painted it black. The heaving you got is strange , I’ve only had that issue once but it was only the flex track and then learned about leaving slight gaps in straight aways. I’ve often found that a short straight length of a turn out makes the rest come together much easier. Although all my tortoise switch machines are installed I still have to add the throw wire to three of the machines and don’t ask me why , all my machines I used a heavier wire and when I install the wire I will install from the top and cut to length.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Thanks, Lynn! I appreciate it!
I have to use a heavier wire than what Circuitron supplied, as well. I'm using .047" wire. I think if a Tortoise has to be installed after the turnout is already in place that feeding the wire down from above would be much easier than trying to poke it into the throw-bar from below! Especially for us old guys!
I forgot to mention that the turnout coming off the main and the one for the caboose track will both be controlled by the same switch. That way there's no possibility of a train coming off the main to run into a point set against it.
I have to use a heavier wire than what Circuitron supplied, as well. I'm using .047" wire. I think if a Tortoise has to be installed after the turnout is already in place that feeding the wire down from above would be much easier than trying to poke it into the throw-bar from below! Especially for us old guys!
I forgot to mention that the turnout coming off the main and the one for the caboose track will both be controlled by the same switch. That way there's no possibility of a train coming off the main to run into a point set against it.
Lynnb
Well-Known Member
Yep I agree , connecting them together is a good idea . I have an auto throw on one of my reverse loop turnouts and I just realized today that the turnout for the turntable/engine facility/turntable is after my auto throw gap so when an engine comes out I now have to make sure the reverse turnout is in the clear position which as you mentioned getting older, I really like the momentary buttons and position LEDs much better than have to think of a number in the hand controllers.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I started laying out the track plan on the control panel. I used 1/2" wide yellow electrical tape. I think I'm going to remove the yellow tape and use 3/4" blue electrical tape. The yellow is letting too much of the dark green show through. I'm going to use 3/4" tape because that's what Menards has! I can get a 66 foot roll of it for $1.99 on sale until tomorrow, so I'm going to run up there and get a few rolls. I installed 4 of the DPDT switches. If I'm going to use different tape, it would be best to do it now before I get too far along! The other 2 switches are out of view to the right.
I did a bit of wiring on the back of the panel. The yellow and black wires come up from the 12 volt bus supplied by the converted computer power supply, which is in the small cabinet on the right. The terminal block on the left will feed any 12 volt accessories, such as Tortoise switch machines, on the left side of the yard. Another will be installed on the right side, but with more terminals as there will be more switch machines on that side.
The small black panel is for my NCE PowerCab. That will be relocated to the front of the control panel. When I fold the panel down the 12 gauge wires fold neatly out of the way.
Back when I had my layout in the other room, I had a spur headed into a "tunnel to nowhere", which I incorporated into a mountain. I saved that mountain, but didn't know what to do with it. I've decided to put it right here:
I'm going to fill in the tunnel, and build up the landscape a bit so it sits level. It would probably be easier to cut away some of the terrain that's already there, but that's the easy way! Can't do that now, can we?
Up on the top of the mountain I made a little cave. I can't find an HO scale Grinch, but I found a Sasquatch!
I did a bit of wiring on the back of the panel. The yellow and black wires come up from the 12 volt bus supplied by the converted computer power supply, which is in the small cabinet on the right. The terminal block on the left will feed any 12 volt accessories, such as Tortoise switch machines, on the left side of the yard. Another will be installed on the right side, but with more terminals as there will be more switch machines on that side.
The small black panel is for my NCE PowerCab. That will be relocated to the front of the control panel. When I fold the panel down the 12 gauge wires fold neatly out of the way.
Back when I had my layout in the other room, I had a spur headed into a "tunnel to nowhere", which I incorporated into a mountain. I saved that mountain, but didn't know what to do with it. I've decided to put it right here:
I'm going to fill in the tunnel, and build up the landscape a bit so it sits level. It would probably be easier to cut away some of the terrain that's already there, but that's the easy way! Can't do that now, can we?
Up on the top of the mountain I made a little cave. I can't find an HO scale Grinch, but I found a Sasquatch!
HO scale bigfoot
The mythical Backwoods Beast is alive.....RUN.....RUN..... A fun character to add to your layout. He is very "Beastly" and comes all painted and ready to add to your scenes. Ho Scale Figures by Model Tech Studios LLC
modeltechstudios.com
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