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So I just found out that the Walthers switch machines have a solder pad that says”swap”. Connect the pads with solder and the now the switch positions will be reversed. All of that useful info does not come with the switch machines, at least mine did not have it, but I was able to track it down. There’s like 27 pages of info. Apparently they are packed full of abilities including DCC control which I will not be using.
All this talk about bridges in another thread lead me to post about a bridge I’m currently building. With the help of a co worker and his 3D printer, I had him print out a few curved bridges. These are 22” radius curves. Super tight curve leading into an old, what will be, an abandoned coal mine. This will also be a hopper car storage yard. Had to modify a few bridge sections and will have to add more embankments under the bridge. In these pics you can see what I’m aiming for. All I need to add is a few cross supports and some wood or steel mesh walkways.
Of all the layouts I’ve built over the years, I’ve avoided curved turnouts in the mainline. This one already has three!. I’m not too concerned since HO switch manufacturers make way better switches nowadays.
Here is a pic of the other 3D printed bridge I have temporary placed . This will service a small gravel plant.
I have more pics, but for some reason when I post them here this site wants to flip them on its side. So this is all I can post of this one. View attachment 251586
Hi rgeiter.
Concerning the tilted photos, I faced the same problem.
I followed ctclibby's advice, so thank's to him.
Click on the "midget" between the chain link and the smiley.
Click on " Drop image ".
Double click on the chosen photo.
A big and a small photo appear, both straight.
When they are fully visible click on the big one then on the circled arrow above.
The big photo then disappears and the small one stays.
I have not planned anything other than the benchwork. And even that wasn’t really planned out. Had I had a real track plan, I would have made sure switches would fit in certain areas. But noooooo, I told myself, “ I’ll add them later”. Well, that bit me in the ass! As luck would have it, things worked out, for the most part, better than expected.
I have no idea on what the coal mine and gravel plant are going to look like. I built that huge foam mountain to absorb the backdrop ending at that area. Haven’t figured out how or where it’s going from here. I have no idea on how I’m going to layout my town. I love the improv way of doing things. That usually means that I will tear something up and do it over again.
Yes, there are things I would have done differently. One of them is not gluing the track down. I would not recommend that. Just nail it down and remove the nails when you ballast.
In the end, it’s model railroading. We are grown men playing with toy trains in our basements. It’s fun and I enjoy it. No planning, just doing
My 4x8 sheet of 1/4 inch cork came today. Now I have to find low Oder contact cement to glue it down. Not going to use the good stuff. Don’t wanna blow up the house. The cork is just a tiny bit taller than the Midwest cork I use. I’ll need to order more though. Bought it on Amazon.
Yep. Titebond 2 is what I’m using. Tonight, after work I’ll be taking the “weights” off of the cork and see how I did.
The way I weighted it down was with some leftover 2’ by 4’ 3/4 inch plywood. Ran some screws through the plywood and into the layout. Nice and even and tight.
A little Christmas Eve update. Couldn’t wait to finish the yard. Had to populate it. Getting those old friends out of the tubs and back on the tracks was a nice Christmas present. Still have a lot of yard tracks to put down and a lot more cars to get out, but this is a great start.
A little Christmas Eve update. Couldn’t wait to finish the yard. Had to populate it. Getting those old friends out of the tubs and back on the tracks was a nice Christmas present. Still have a lot of yard tracks to put down and a lot more cars to get out, but this is a great start.