The 60/40 Layout And Other Railway Related Things

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It seems after checking numerous locos and other rolling stock that the large disparity between the couplings I showed is due partly to the loco itself, but most of the wheels were 33" except for two sets, (one on each truck), so I changed them out and it was better but still not lined up properly, so I'll swap the coupler on the car with an underset Kadee when I find them, that should fix the problem.

As a side note, I was surprised that the Atlas Gensett I was using to pull the cars, outperformed the Athearn RTR SD40, the Gensett pulled all the cars, but battled on curves, the SD40 just sat and spun its wheels on the straight and never moved.
 


It sounds like you could do with a Kadee coupler gauge unless you already have one.
I find one invaluable for checking correct coupler matching and trip pin heights.
Regards, Colin.
Yes, I do have one, but I've no idea where I've put it, I've been looking for weeks it'll turn up when I no longer need it. But I've checked them against my other rolling stock and they are too high so I've ordered some overset Kadees that should fix the problem, and the loco I initially used had McHenry couplers so I've swapped them out as well.
 
I've had this building for a while, a European Coal shed, been meaning to add the missing rail and finally got round to it.

1721064149298.png


I've made the rail using some brass rods I bought for another project that has since been abandoned.

1721064199551.png


In defence of my shoddy soldering, it's the first time I've ever tried to solder brass.

1721064262420.png


Quick spray of primer, hopefully I'll be able to paint them tonight, and fit tomorrow.
 
I've had this building for a while, a European Coal shed, been meaning to add the missing rail and finally got round to it.

View attachment 194167

I've made the rail using some brass rods I bought for another project that has since been abandoned.

View attachment 194168

In defence of my shoddy soldering, it's the first time I've ever tried to solder brass.

View attachment 194169

Quick spray of primer, hopefully I'll be able to paint them tonight, and fit tomorrow.
Turned out very authentic, fits the feel of the building well!
 


Turned out very authentic, fits the feel of the building well!
Thanks, I've found some 3D printed cars that I think would look ideal for the building as you can see it has a set of moulded rails on one of the roofs I want to use them as a kind of tower down on its luck and give it a semi-derelict look, leave them just laying around damaged etc.

1721074589133.png
 
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I've been having problems with the CN coaches I repainted a few weeks back, mainly they would uncouple as they round the curve, I solved that by replacing a coupler and using a tuner to ensure all the wheels are free to turn, however, it seems the cars are too heavy for the loco, it's fine with the two smaller cars, but the Observation and Dome cars together are a no no.

20240718_164620_619090759497748.mp4

20240718_164333_618923842515406.mp4

A simple solution would be to use a bigger loco, I've tried that, with 7 different locos and all that happens is the back end of the loco gets dragged off or whichever car is behind the loco derails, and I did try various combinations with the cars.

I've also tried a consist with two GP35s with mixed results, usually one or the other loco would derail.

I've also tried a consist with 2X GP35s and an SD70, again I had various trucks derail and honestly, it looked ridiculous with 3 locos trying to pull 4 passenger cars.

Removing weight might be a solution, leaving enough over each truck, but I'm not sure that would work, I get the feeling that removing weight will mean whichever cars are 2nd/3rd or 4th will derail as they transit the curves

I can think of four things I can do.

1) Try running 3X 4 legger locos and see if they will pull the cars without derailing, even if looks stupid.
2) Remove weight.
3) Forget about running more than the two smaller cars.
4) Put all the cars away and forget about them

So, what do I do ?😞
 
Seems the culprit may be the trucks not pivoting side to side enough for the longer cars?
That would produce a binding effect on sharper curves. Worth a shot.
So a longer shank Kadee, a body-mounted #148 or #178 might work ?

Meanwhile, going by that first video I’m going to have to request you fill out and submit the following form…
https://railroads.dot.gov/forms-gui...ipment-accidentincident-effective-june-1-2011
As the CEO, CFO and Chief Maintenance and Technical Engineer that doesn't apply as it was quickly resolved without incident by a big hand coming from the sky.😂
 






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