Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Thank you.I agree!
Thank you.I agree!
Yes, I do have one, but I've no idea where I've put it, I've been looking for weeks it'll turn up when I no longer need it. But I've checked them against my other rolling stock and they are too high so I've ordered some overset Kadees that should fix the problem, and the loco I initially used had McHenry couplers so I've swapped them out as well.It sounds like you could do with a Kadee coupler gauge unless you already have one.
I find one invaluable for checking correct coupler matching and trip pin heights.
Regards, Colin.
You are not alone. I could write a list of things I can't find. They will turn up when I'm looking for something else.Yes, I do have one, but I've no idea where I've put it, I've been looking for weeks it'll turn up when I no longer need it.
Turned out very authentic, fits the feel of the building well!I've had this building for a while, a European Coal shed, been meaning to add the missing rail and finally got round to it.
View attachment 194167
I've made the rail using some brass rods I bought for another project that has since been abandoned.
View attachment 194168
In defence of my shoddy soldering, it's the first time I've ever tried to solder brass.
View attachment 194169
Quick spray of primer, hopefully I'll be able to paint them tonight, and fit tomorrow.
You did very well for your first attempt. Brass is a good conductor of heat and that can make it tricky to solder.In defence of my shoddy soldering, it's the first time I've ever tried to solder brass.
And brass makes it very easy to burn your fingers too.You did very well for your first attempt. Brass is a good conductor of heat and that can make it tricky to solder.
Thanks, I've found some 3D printed cars that I think would look ideal for the building as you can see it has a set of moulded rails on one of the roofs I want to use them as a kind of tower down on its luck and give it a semi-derelict look, leave them just laying around damaged etc.Turned out very authentic, fits the feel of the building well!
Is it, I got it off fleaBay already built.Looks great!
Yes I did have that kit at one time, Pola made it if I’m not mistook?
So a longer shank Kadee, a body-mounted #148 or #178 might work ?Seems the culprit may be the trucks not pivoting side to side enough for the longer cars?
That would produce a binding effect on sharper curves. Worth a shot.
As the CEO, CFO and Chief Maintenance and Technical Engineer that doesn't apply as it was quickly resolved without incident by a big hand coming from the sky.Meanwhile, going by that first video I’m going to have to request you fill out and submit the following form…
https://railroads.dot.gov/forms-gui...ipment-accidentincident-effective-june-1-2011
Ah yes, the big hand from the sky!As the CEO, CFO and Chief Maintenance and Technical Engineer that doesn't apply as it was quickly resolved without incident by a big hand coming from the sky.![]()
I’m thinking more like the truck may not be swivelling enough to follow the radius of the curve, as in exceeding the minimum it will run on.So a longer shank Kadee, a body-mounted #148 or #178 might work ?
