NorthBrit
Well-Known Member
How does this look - bubbles and all
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Gosh Tony. That looks like a deep lake. Over here a fence would be needed to keep people away for safety.
David
How does this look - bubbles and all
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Either the wires are on the wrong terminals or the potentiometer has gone south. To check the meter, have to open it up. Had one go on me. Replaced the entire power pack. Easier.Oh no! Sorry to hear this.
Have you figured out yet what's causing this?
You have the worse "luck" ever. MRC 1370 says it is a 'solid state' unit, so it could be the potentiometer or a failed transistor, probably neither of which is easily "user" serviceable. Probably all soldered to a single circuit board.DC using an MRC 1370 Controller; however, there is something wrong. As soon as I put one of my DC engines on the track and switch on the controller - the engine goes straight to 100 MPH! There is no speed control what so ever, it is either Flat Out or Dead Stopped, It didn't matter what DC engine I used either - Deiseal or Steam - made no difference.
Actually, the first engine I tried was one of my Amtrak engines. I only have about 6' of trackwork down and by the time I realised what was happening I heard a thud (engine hitting the wall) followed by another thud (engine hitting the floor). Havent had the courage to find that engine yet
Flipping 'eck, Tony I think words like cwap, sheep and ¤☆$#¿, came to mind, sounds like your controller is on the fritz![]()
Better get that track down before they go all “Rails to trails” on your ass!
As for dc or dcc, this might be the time to convert.
I’ve had some pretty big layouts running dcc with only a pair of alligator clips as temp power, no feeders no issues.
Yes you can easily, IF it is still sealed just add another thin layer of varnish,you will amazed how fresh it is.
Oh no! Sorry to hear this.
Have you figured out yet what's causing this?
Gosh Tony. That looks like a deep lake. Over here a fence would be needed to keep people away for safety.
David
And how many times have you heard of youngsters being where there not supposed to be, keep your rescue crew, add a emergency gate, and pop a head or two into the water, job done.Hmm - but if I do that, then I wont need my Search and Rescue Team! Maybe the fence would be easier - thanks, and I think I will do that
pop a head or two into the water, job done.
I too use regular white glue for track laying. Want to take it up, just spray some warm water on it, let it sit and peel up.Am moving on, albeit slowly, with laying the new track. Have almost a complete laid so far:
Gluing to the Roadbed:
Just using Elmers White Glue for this. While it isn't as strong as the liquid nails, it does work.
I too use regular white glue for track laying. Want to take it up, just spray some warm water on it, let it sit and peel up.
How is the track to remove with using liquid nails?
Problem with Elmer's White is that after about 25 years it turns brittle and the track just cracks off. A good ballast job makes up for it.Just using Elmers White Glue for this. While it isn't as strong as the liquid nails, it does work.
Don't you have any Zap glue ?I have given up on putting the "mesh stuff" on, I don't know what is happening but can't get it to stick to the brass. Personally, I think the brass is just too thin for the CA to get a grip onto. It seems to stick it real well to styrene though
Anyway, I am going to pretend that the brass is wood and that the fence is going to be something other than a metal chain mesh type![]()
Nope and I was going to get some and just forgot - tomorrow I'll be up town so I'll put it on my list. Thanks for the reminder.Don't you have any Zap glue ?
Well, I am guessing the way I live my life - that'll be someone else's problem; although, I kinda hope it will still be mine. And yes - I don't get too worried about how the track goes down as I always will ballast.Problem with Elmer's White is that after about 25 years it turns brittle and the track just cracks off. A good ballast job makes up for it.
