The “Give Tony Grief” Thread

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How does this look - bubbles and all :)

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Gosh Tony. That looks like a deep lake. Over here a fence would be needed to keep people away for safety.

David
 
DC using an MRC 1370 Controller; however, there is something wrong. As soon as I put one of my DC engines on the track and switch on the controller - the engine goes straight to 100 MPH! There is no speed control what so ever, it is either Flat Out or Dead Stopped, It didn't matter what DC engine I used either - Deiseal or Steam - made no difference.

Actually, the first engine I tried was one of my Amtrak engines. I only have about 6' of trackwork down and by the time I realised what was happening I heard a thud (engine hitting the wall) followed by another thud (engine hitting the floor). Havent had the courage to find that engine yet
You have the worse "luck" ever. MRC 1370 says it is a 'solid state' unit, so it could be the potentiometer or a failed transistor, probably neither of which is easily "user" serviceable. Probably all soldered to a single circuit board.

In 1984, I had just purchased an Atlas E7 which was new tooling way better than their former E8. Anyway took it home got it all cleaned up inside and out with new lube. Put it on the track and set it to high speed to begin working in the lube and break loose some of its stiffness. Round and round it went while I began other projects across the room. ... Then I noticed the sound coming from the locomotive changed. I looked up and the engine had picked a point and taken the divergent branch track up toward the stub end mine. The roadbed under that part of the track was different hence the change in the sound. While I was running across the room the loco went through the three tunnels. Just as I reached the power it zoomed through the mine tipple and shot off the end of the dead end spur. It made a classic loosing momentum vs acceleration of gravity arch down to the cement floor. I just picked up the pieces and put them in a tray of my parts cabinet where they still sit today.
 


Flipping 'eck, Tony I think words like cwap, sheep and ¤☆$#¿, came to mind, sounds like your controller is on the fritz:confused:

Okay - Because I was doing all of this stuff on Ozzie time (5:00 pm) - ie: 3:00 am (US time) I wasn't well, thinking all that clearly apparently and forgot to change the wiring from Accessories AC to Track DC on the controller. Yeah I know - I'm an idiot, oh well - live and learn.
Better get that track down before they go all “Rails to trails” on your ass!
As for dc or dcc, this might be the time to convert.
I’ve had some pretty big layouts running dcc with only a pair of alligator clips as temp power, no feeders no issues.

I have decided to run this as DCC and have already started putting in the Drop Feeders. One set per length of track - I just don't rely on or trust rail joiners only :)

Yes you can easily, IF it is still sealed just add another thin layer of varnish,you will amazed how fresh it is.

Should have elaborated - what you say is absolutely correct; however, I have reached the limit of my "depth" if you like. Even a 1/16th rise in water level will flood the valley :) Of course, I could "build a little levy" that would allow me to raise the water level ?????

You guys are causing me work, you know that!!! :D

Oh no! Sorry to hear this.

Have you figured out yet what's causing this?

Yep mate - the cause is simple ... "the operator is an idiot!" :)

See above for the actual reason :)
 
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Gosh Tony. That looks like a deep lake. Over here a fence would be needed to keep people away for safety.

David

Safety, smafety - experience is the best educator! :p

A fence is an interesting idea David - I could put one in where there is access to the lake.

Hmm - but if I do that, then I wont need my Search and Rescue Team! Maybe the fence would be easier - thanks, and I think I will do that ;) :)
 
Hmm - but if I do that, then I wont need my Search and Rescue Team! Maybe the fence would be easier - thanks, and I think I will do that
And how many times have you heard of youngsters being where there not supposed to be, keep your rescue crew, add a emergency gate, and pop a head or two into the water, job done.
 
Am moving on, albeit slowly, with laying the new track. Have almost a complete laid so far:

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Gluing to the Roadbed:

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Just using Elmers White Glue for this. While it isn't as strong as the liquid nails, it does work.
 
So while I am waiting for everything that I am waiting for, I might as well build that fence that David suggested. OR, I can use some already made stuff from Gold Model or whoever they are - the brass stuff I have around the church. Think I'll build my own out of wood :)

Change of plans - don't think the Gold Medal Fencing is appropriate and my smallest basswood is too large and will look finny; therefore, out comes the brass wire and the soldering iron to put up this (or similar):

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Am moving on, albeit slowly, with laying the new track. Have almost a complete laid so far:





Gluing to the Roadbed:



Just using Elmers White Glue for this. While it isn't as strong as the liquid nails, it does work.
I too use regular white glue for track laying. Want to take it up, just spray some warm water on it, let it sit and peel up.

How is the track to remove with using liquid nails?
 
I too use regular white glue for track laying. Want to take it up, just spray some warm water on it, let it sit and peel up.

How is the track to remove with using liquid nails?

Not as easy but not that bad either. What generally happens with me is the Rails pull out of the ties, which is fine when your throwing it all out, I then use a 2" chisel to run beneath the cork roadbed and gently pull on it to get it up. Doing that generally brings it up easily. If I intend to keep the track, I use the chisel from the outset. All of that is AFTER I give it a good soak with water or (preferably) Isopropyl Alcohol.
 
I have given up on putting the "mesh stuff" on, I don't know what is happening but can't get it to stick to the brass. Personally, I think the brass is just too thin for the CA to get a grip onto. It seems to stick it real well to styrene though :rolleyes:

Anyway, I am going to pretend that the brass is wood and that the fence is going to be something other than a metal chain mesh type :)
 
I have given up on putting the "mesh stuff" on, I don't know what is happening but can't get it to stick to the brass. Personally, I think the brass is just too thin for the CA to get a grip onto. It seems to stick it real well to styrene though :rolleyes:

Anyway, I am going to pretend that the brass is wood and that the fence is going to be something other than a metal chain mesh type :)
Don't you have any Zap glue ?
 
Problem with Elmer's White is that after about 25 years it turns brittle and the track just cracks off. A good ballast job makes up for it.
Well, I am guessing the way I live my life - that'll be someone else's problem; although, I kinda hope it will still be mine. And yes - I don't get too worried about how the track goes down as I always will ballast.
 
Okay, for the moment I think I have got a work around for the mesh stuff. I coated the fence (brass) in white glue then laid the mesh on top of that. That holds the mesh enough for me to properly glue it with the CA. At least it seems that way at the moment.

Will still be getting some of that Zap Glue though - I am just frustrated at not being able to get this work and being an Aussie, I wont give up and I wont back down :)

SUCCESS, albeit messy!
 






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