That one item you have always been after

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They are pretty simple to make yourself if you think about it. I think I have the paint and 2 GP38's just for this.....
 


Yeah, I just bought a undec U23B to paint. I was looking for decals earlier and couldn't find anyone who made the black CSX set.
 
Still wanting to get a 3 truck shay that doesn't have split gears. I had one all detailed and weathered just perfect for my RR, but sent it in under warranty and it never came back. Instead they sent me a Spectrum 2-8-0. I'm still not too happy about that.

Also, looking for an Alco MRS-1, but I have a feeling I'll be doing some scratch building for that one.
 
GPwrangler said:
Still wanting to get a 3 truck shay that doesn't have split gears. I had one all detailed and weathered just perfect for my RR, but sent it in under warranty and it never came back. Instead they sent me a Spectrum 2-8-0. I'm still not too happy about that.

Also, looking for an Alco MRS-1, but I have a feeling I'll be doing some scratch building for that one.
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Thats the main reason I do not send my engines back to Botchmann for repairs...and I fix them my self...:( for me I already have what I like and I only buy what im "after"
 


Midnught Special said:
Thats the main reason I do not send my engines back to Botchmann for repairs...and I fix them my self...:( for me I already have what I like and I only buy what im "after"
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Amen on that one! One of my Bachmann 2-8-0's experienced a motor failure. It too was weathered, and had a few prototype specific modifications done. I paid for a new motor from Bachmann rather then sending it back to them!:cool: I also learned 1 thing. When the drive belts start failing (and eventually they will) they will become static display pieces. Those drive belts are a real bugger!:eek:
 
kbkchooch said:
Amen on that one! ...I also learned 1 thing. When the drive belts start failing (and eventually they will) they will become static display pieces. Those drive belts are a real bugger!:eek:
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Karl, they're not that hard to replace! First hold the frame halves in both hands, then use your 3rd hand to pull and replace the belt!:D

See, its reeaall easy!:p;)
 
Cjcrescent said:
Karl, they're not that hard to replace! First hold the frame halves in both hands, then use your 3rd hand to pull and replace the belt!:D

See, its reeaall easy!:p;)
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you forgot the 4th hand also needs to hold the tooth pick/flat screw driver ;) LOL...



but I agree I was not about to send my favorite engine back to Bachmann just to have them toss it out and "replace" it woth another "newer model of the similar type" nah I love the Soughton Hall too much for that, granted its not a high end piece but it can pull like a muel and can happily chug along toting a 20 carrage train with no issues, granted it don't like inclines but I have a small pug type engine that I plan to use as a "remote pusher" to assist with pushing trains up hills and things when I start figureing a way to build an actual bench...but thats another story ;)
 
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I finally got one of my unicorns only because of price
a Proto 2000 N&W 2-8-8-2 DCC ready
now I just need to save up for the QSI Titan to put in it
Also need to save my pennies for a Cornerstone Railroad Shop
That will be the last of the big buildings for my layout
 
A brass key N&W Y5. I've cobbled together 2 from Rivorossi Y6b's by grinding off details and adding brass ones for the Y5. I'd like to see someone make the original A, Y5, Y6 tenders too.
 
kbkchooch said:
A center cab 65 ton Whitcomb engine in Maryland Midland!!
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Those are neat I have a Hallmark brass piece they show up from time to time at usually fair prices mine will be a detroit harbor terminal engine!!

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My sought after item that has avoided me for the better part of two years is a Overland Models 132 ton GE center cab switcher in Ford paint

If anybody knows the whereabouts of one of these I am very interested!!!

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