Soldering Track Connections

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your average rosin core solder will do just fine
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Nothing wrong with 60/40 rosin core solder. When putting track down I normally put a little non-acid paste flux in the rail joiners. When I apply the solder the solder will follow the flux into the joiners and make the connection solid. On unsoldered track that's already been secured in position I just brush some flux on the outer edge of the joint so it spans the joiner and some of the rail then apply the solder.
 


Solder does have a shelf life due to the breakdown of the flux but I find that my old spool of 20 years still does the job.

I chose to wire my sections together from uderneath the board, do any of you solder the rail joiners or bridge the track sections together using wire above the board, hiding it in the roadbed?
 
Make sure you get the right solder. Don't get the electronics solder, what you want is for metals. Because of the nickle silver rails.

I have been using the Benzomatic Metal Work rosin core solder, and it works great.
 
Standard Rosin-Core solder works well, and you can find it just about anywhere. Also, just a tip: When soldering, make sure the two pieces of rail are pushed together tightly, otherwise, when you apply the solder, you may get a bump, from the solder, that can be a pain to remove with a grinder.
 
Agree...standard 60/40 rosin core solder by itself. Size would really depend on what you prefer, but I believe you will find the small diameter easier to work with. For tight spots or where too much heat could be a problem, rosin core solder with silver content requires less heat. I forgot the ratio, but you don't need the very expensive ratio; just the one with some solder content. I mostly use this for small soldering jobs, such as lighting, LED's, etc., but have used it on track joints that are in tight, hard to reach places where I need to get on and off quick.
 




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