Running Bear's January 2025 Coffee Shop

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


Status
Not open for further replies.


Fortunately, I haven't started building anything other than one Walther's through girder bridge.

I've got about a box and a half of Peco New N-scale flex track, and a bunch of turnouts only three or so of the turnouts we installed previously. I never ran a train on the old layout either.

I'm getting to the point that I need to do something other than paint tiny figures. Doubling the size from N-scale would help. Though it's not up to where I'm painting figures now.
You can get some unitrack or equivalent and set up a layout to run your trains. You don’t need fancy turnouts and peco track if your goal is to make stuff move. I’ve set up a bunch of temporary layouts to run on. I’ll eventually get started on my life layout* but will continue using my 4x8 sheet of foam on a frame I made for temporary layouts.

(I was thinking of using peco track and turnouts etc on the large life layout but I need to figure out how involved it will be and if it’s worth it - or to stick with KATO unitrack or maybe a mix of that and Tomix for different lines. )

It all depends on what your goals are. Do you prefer the modeling aspect or the running aspect? Or some other aspect?

I like it all but especially running and figuring out the electronics of it, ie figuring out DCC installs and making it all work. I’m less about realistic modeling. For me it’s about the emotions that the layout invokes. Reminds me of when we’ve gone to Japan or I lived in Europe or gets me excited to dream about going to Europe again or to get excited about our next trip to Japan. This is why I don’t really care about weathering my own stuff. I like to admire others who have weathered stuff and ultra realistic layouts. For me some store bought structures to make a town and a station and make the trains go whee is enough.

* life layout is the large layout I plan on working on until I die. Then it becomes the problem of my wife and/or kids to worry about 😂

The life layout will strive to have a bit more modeling and realism behind it since it’s my life project. Need to exercise that bit of the brain and skill as well.
 
Last edited:
Good morning! It's 18°F in Tipton.
1736071827513.png

1736071854899.png
1736071917131.png

1736071946638.png
 
Last edited:
You can get some unitrack or equivalent and set up a layout to run your trains. You don’t need fancy turnouts and peco track if your goal is to make stuff move. I’ve set up a bunch of temporary layouts to run on. I’ll eventually get started on my life layout* but will continue using my 4x8 sheet of foam on a frame I made for temporary layouts.
...
It all depends on what your goals are. Do you prefer the modeling aspect or the running aspect? Is some other aspect?
I can go park at a crossing if I want to see trains runs. We've got a NF/S yard in Ft Wayne,.

For me it's the project of modelling and creating something with a dynamic element.

I'm getting more surely as I age, and the idea of hanging out with gamers for a weekend, just to see my nicely painted orcs on dinos defeated yet again is telling me it's time to transition hobby priorities. The terrain making, and scenery is the appealing aspect. The bonus of studying a period (freelancing) and bringing in my favorite trains was extra sauce.

But just making static dioramas doesn't appeal. It's the interaction with the train that makes the scenery come alive. Kind of like playing a game on a terrained table with the toy soldiers.

The deciding factor in scale will probably be the curve radii. I'm not locked into my current corner of the basement, but to make larger return loops work, I'll have to expand. Until I yank the gaming table area, I've maxed out the MRR space.
 
I can go park at a crossing if I want to see trains runs. We've got a NF/S yard in Ft Wayne,.

For me it's the project of modelling and creating something with a dynamic element.

I'm getting more surely as I age, and the idea of hanging out with gamers for a weekend, just to see my nicely painted orcs on dinos defeated yet again is telling me it's time to transition hobby priorities. The terrain making, and scenery is the appealing aspect. The bonus of studying a period (freelancing) and bringing in my favorite trains was extra sauce.

But just making static dioramas doesn't appeal. It's the interaction with the train that makes the scenery come alive. Kind of like playing a game on a terrained table with the toy soldiers.

The deciding factor in scale will probably be the curve radii. I'm not locked into my current corner of the basement, but to make larger return loops work, I'll have to expand. Until I yank the gaming table area, I've maxed out the MRR space.
Your 20" radius curves will work okay with the smaller equipment of the 1940s-1950s. Most everything was still 40' car length, but 50' equipment was growing in popularity. Obviously, if you're wanting steam, the smaller engines the better. No matter what the manufacturers say, 20" radius is too tight for much more than 2-8-0s. You can probably get away with SD7s, but E units and Trainmasters will be off the table--literally...
If you want passenger trains, you can pick up some of the old Athearn 65' (or whatever length they were) passenger cars, and use F units to pull them. Other than their length, and basic detail, they weren't bad cars. Kato/Atlas GP7s and RS3s, and Kato/Stewart F units, and Kato NW2s would be a good basis for motive power. If you want better detailed stuff, Atlas Classic and Bowser F units are the new, improved versions.
 


Well, howdy there internet peeps and those getting a start on the day

It's Troy again

Funny I should mention getting a start

Seems the daughter's boyfriend's car needs a starter. It's a 2009 Equinox. Daughter says the car is cursed, but boyfriend insisted on driving up yesterday. We were cold, but no rain or snow (20-ish F-degrees).

I tried an old jump pack I had. Nada. AAA came out with a wrecker (and some sorry-arsed jumper cables. looked like they'd been caught when someone lowered the flatbed on the wrecker. They were electrical taped together... After letting the Equinox sit for 10 minutes on the "charge" the wrecker was delivering, Nada. Just a single click. But without the jump, electronics still worked.

5pm on a Saturday wasn't a time to call the garage. So we pulled the battery and ran to AutoZone. Battery checked fine. The techs there both said "Starter".
Equinoxes aren't know for wiring issues around the starter, are they. He said he just had the starter replaced this spring.

So we had an unscheduled 4 hour round trip to take daughter and boyfriend back to Indianapolis. Now I have to find a garage local to get his car towed to. He can deal with them after that, but I said I'd locate something trustworthy and get it out of our condo's lot.
 
Good afternoon all. Strange things are happening here, but nobody in authority will answer.

Twice we have had a thick fog envelop the area. It is a weird fog indeed. Particles of fine, sparkly dust flittering here, there and everywhere. As quick as the fog arrives it quickly disappears. No sign of any dust?

Overnight we had the snowfall that has been forecast for over two weeks. In the garden there are two tracks made by what can only be described is wheels. Not continuous tracks but in sections. One track leads to our patio door.

We are not the only house to have such tracks.

I need something stronger than tea.
 
Well, howdy there internet peeps and those getting a start on the day

It's Troy again

Funny I should mention getting a start

Seems the daughter's boyfriend's car needs a starter. It's a 2009 Equinox. Daughter says the car is cursed, but boyfriend insisted on driving up yesterday. We were cold, but no rain or snow (20-ish F-degrees).

I tried an old jump pack I had. Nada. AAA came out with a wrecker (and some sorry-arsed jumper cables. looked like they'd been caught when someone lowered the flatbed on the wrecker. They were electrical taped together... After letting the Equinox sit for 10 minutes on the "charge" the wrecker was delivering, Nada. Just a single click. But without the jump, electronics still worked.

5pm on a Saturday wasn't a time to call the garage. So we pulled the battery and ran to AutoZone. Battery checked fine. The techs there both said "Starter".
Equinoxes aren't know for wiring issues around the starter, are they. He said he just had the starter replaced this spring.

So we had an unscheduled 4 hour round trip to take daughter and boyfriend back to Indianapolis. Now I have to find a garage local to get his car towed to. He can deal with them after that, but I said I'd locate something trustworthy and get it out of our condo's lot.
Turn on the ignition, and see if there is a red lighted key icon on the instrument cluster. If there is, it means the chip in the key is not being seen by the anti theft system. It will keep the starter from engaging. Try putting the car in neutral and see if the starter will engage.
 
Serious question again (I've asked before... but I'm getting more serious)

Up til now, I've been thinking N-Scale. I've got two locomotives in GN colors (Katos), and about a dozen rolling of various types. As well as some structures still in the boxes.

And my eyes are becoming a problem. I"m only sixty and I ordered a magnifier just to read magazine text. I've got a 27in monitor, and thinking about upgrading the size.

So, I may be upgrading to HO. Do it now before I lay track on the layout, or build any structures.

1. What's the better (more reliable) motive power in HO?
2. What's the better rolling stock in HO?
3. Track: Up til now I've been buying Peco Code 80. What should I be looking at to price out getting HO track?
Troy: Don't know if I can add anything more than what others have posted.

Track: If you don't use track with roadbed, track is track. ME is a little hard to curve as it springs back. All do, but ME is more 'springier'. I buy flex in 100 piece boxes - last time was $600; haven't checked lately as I do need to get more to grow the stash.

Cars: I was looking at MR the other day. $99 tank car. Don't remember the details, but I can't get by that price for HO scale car. When it comes to cars, my thought is 'If I can't see the detail at 3ft, why have a gold plated one'. If you are interested on pix, ya, you might have to have a couple. BB, Accurail are good enough for switching around. In fact, you don't frown as much when they dive to the bottom of the big canyon.

Power: I have everything from BB up. No Scaletrains though. Since I have been collecting for a '68 to '71 era pike there is really not much with those 'newer' high $$$ engines in the livery I want. So it is make do with what I have. Same as above, 'If I can't see the detail ...'

Switches: For the amount I will have, there is no way I will be able to afford them, so build my own. I am good at making little widgets for templates and have been soldering since I was 12, so that is not an issue. Also already have 100's of feet of bare rail so I should be good to go.

Like Karl, I too am type II. Eyesight is pretty good for now and I use readers for the small stuff, headset for the really small stuff. But I can see problems coming in time. My current burning problem is 'fat fingers' and I am pretty sure N scale would do nothing but frustrate me. I quit N scale almost 40 years ago because of that. I did like the prospect of the grand views and long trains with it though.

I also can go down to the tracks to watch trains run, but do want that besides just switching and have been designing for that.

And like you 'bigger is better' when it comes to monitors. Have dual 27" and 36" in the train cave; no desk space for anything bigger unfortunately. When I come in from out there and use the measly 23" on the mud room desk - it is so tiny me thinks. And to think we started on an Apple Fishbowl or those IBM 9" things. Mud room monitors will probably grow in the next month or so. Can fit dual 27's on the desk.

Since you are looking to try HO, do what ever cranks your driver as inexpensive as you can. You can always up your game if it is something you think you will stay with. As to the N stuff, make a small roundy-round using that as you won't have to deal with selling it. If you do that, pretty sure you will look at it after 6/8 Months with HO and mumble 'what was I thinking'.

Later
 
Last edited:
Good morning writing from my phone power just went out in Kansas. Ice snow wind yup got it. 17f this morning wind chill -10f. I’m just going to hunker down here and watch the snow fly and wait for power to come back on—-hopefully today sometime.

Have a great day!!
 
Good Morning All!
34F @ 92% with 5 inches of white on the ground. More through Thursday guessers think.

Looks like the 'deep freeze' is gonna miss us as the sat pix's show it going down the East side of the divide. Some is probably gonna wash over into Glacier and make Kalispell though. Fingers crossed that it does not come further West. Missoula will be in the blast. Anybody heard from KentuckyJed? Louisville is destined for 1/2" of ice with up to 8" of snow on top today/tomorra.

Troy: I forgot. Do you have a 'current clamp'? Starter solenoid is clicking so that circuit is probably working. Wonder about the amount of current present in the starter positive. The current clamp should have a 'hold' button so you can try to start the thing then check it. If zero, the solenoid is not completely engaging. Wack it with a hammer a time or two. If a low value ( less than 50A ) is present, check the starter positive cable for condensation, and have a look at the grounding point. If the current is higher than 50, wack the starter with a hammer while somebody gives starting a go. Something could point to a problem other than the starter motor.

More cleaning/pickup and moving stuff around in the train cave today. Gwad I will be glad when that is done. Happened while we were OTR, bought stuff and just 'threw it in there'. My bad. At least all of the train stuff is in boxes; even kinda sorted!

Y'all keep warm!

Later
 


Was it new or rebuilt? If it was rebuilt who rebuilt it? Some rebuilds have short lifespans.
Knowing this guy, it's probably a rebuilt. I didn't know you could rebuild a starter?

Troy: I forgot. Do you have a 'current clamp'? Starter solenoid is clicking so that circuit is probably working. Wonder about the amount of current present in the starter positive. The current clamp should have a 'hold' button so you can try to start the thing then check it. If zero, the solenoid is not completely engaging. Wack it with a hammer a time or two. If a low value ( less than 50A ) is present, check the starter positive cable for condensation, and have a look at the grounding point. If the current is higher than 50, wack the starter with a hammer while somebody gives starting a go. Something could point to a problem other than the starter motor.

Nope. I've got a standard multi-tester, and other than testing household batteries, I have no clue how to use it. I youtube "continuity" or whatever whenever I've got a task for it. Then promptly forget how I did what I did.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top