santafewillie
Same Ol' Buzzard
Didn't forget the birthday, just forgot to post it in the morning post.Willie. I know we forget things as we get older, but not your birthday surely.
Didn't forget the birthday, just forgot to post it in the morning post.Willie. I know we forget things as we get older, but not your birthday surely.
Congrats on the birthday. May year 73 be everything you want it to beEarlier today, I forgot to post today's significant birthdays, just one. It's me, as I just made my 73rd revolution around the Sun.
You can get some unitrack or equivalent and set up a layout to run your trains. You don’t need fancy turnouts and peco track if your goal is to make stuff move. I’ve set up a bunch of temporary layouts to run on. I’ll eventually get started on my life layout* but will continue using my 4x8 sheet of foam on a frame I made for temporary layouts.Fortunately, I haven't started building anything other than one Walther's through girder bridge.
I've got about a box and a half of Peco New N-scale flex track, and a bunch of turnouts only three or so of the turnouts we installed previously. I never ran a train on the old layout either.
I'm getting to the point that I need to do something other than paint tiny figures. Doubling the size from N-scale would help. Though it's not up to where I'm painting figures now.
I can go park at a crossing if I want to see trains runs. We've got a NF/S yard in Ft Wayne,.You can get some unitrack or equivalent and set up a layout to run your trains. You don’t need fancy turnouts and peco track if your goal is to make stuff move. I’ve set up a bunch of temporary layouts to run on. I’ll eventually get started on my life layout* but will continue using my 4x8 sheet of foam on a frame I made for temporary layouts.
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It all depends on what your goals are. Do you prefer the modeling aspect or the running aspect? Is some other aspect?
Your 20" radius curves will work okay with the smaller equipment of the 1940s-1950s. Most everything was still 40' car length, but 50' equipment was growing in popularity. Obviously, if you're wanting steam, the smaller engines the better. No matter what the manufacturers say, 20" radius is too tight for much more than 2-8-0s. You can probably get away with SD7s, but E units and Trainmasters will be off the table--literally...I can go park at a crossing if I want to see trains runs. We've got a NF/S yard in Ft Wayne,.
For me it's the project of modelling and creating something with a dynamic element.
I'm getting more surely as I age, and the idea of hanging out with gamers for a weekend, just to see my nicely painted orcs on dinos defeated yet again is telling me it's time to transition hobby priorities. The terrain making, and scenery is the appealing aspect. The bonus of studying a period (freelancing) and bringing in my favorite trains was extra sauce.
But just making static dioramas doesn't appeal. It's the interaction with the train that makes the scenery come alive. Kind of like playing a game on a terrained table with the toy soldiers.
The deciding factor in scale will probably be the curve radii. I'm not locked into my current corner of the basement, but to make larger return loops work, I'll have to expand. Until I yank the gaming table area, I've maxed out the MRR space.
I am with you in agreement, Troy.But just making static dioramas doesn't appeal. It's the interaction with the train that makes the scenery come alive. Kind of like playing a game on a terrained table with the toy soldiers.
Turn on the ignition, and see if there is a red lighted key icon on the instrument cluster. If there is, it means the chip in the key is not being seen by the anti theft system. It will keep the starter from engaging. Try putting the car in neutral and see if the starter will engage.Well, howdy there internet peeps and those getting a start on the day
It's Troy again
Funny I should mention getting a start
Seems the daughter's boyfriend's car needs a starter. It's a 2009 Equinox. Daughter says the car is cursed, but boyfriend insisted on driving up yesterday. We were cold, but no rain or snow (20-ish F-degrees).
I tried an old jump pack I had. Nada. AAA came out with a wrecker (and some sorry-arsed jumper cables. looked like they'd been caught when someone lowered the flatbed on the wrecker. They were electrical taped together... After letting the Equinox sit for 10 minutes on the "charge" the wrecker was delivering, Nada. Just a single click. But without the jump, electronics still worked.
5pm on a Saturday wasn't a time to call the garage. So we pulled the battery and ran to AutoZone. Battery checked fine. The techs there both said "Starter".
Equinoxes aren't know for wiring issues around the starter, are they. He said he just had the starter replaced this spring.
So we had an unscheduled 4 hour round trip to take daughter and boyfriend back to Indianapolis. Now I have to find a garage local to get his car towed to. He can deal with them after that, but I said I'd locate something trustworthy and get it out of our condo's lot.
Troy: Don't know if I can add anything more than what others have posted.Serious question again (I've asked before... but I'm getting more serious)
Up til now, I've been thinking N-Scale. I've got two locomotives in GN colors (Katos), and about a dozen rolling of various types. As well as some structures still in the boxes.
And my eyes are becoming a problem. I"m only sixty and I ordered a magnifier just to read magazine text. I've got a 27in monitor, and thinking about upgrading the size.
So, I may be upgrading to HO. Do it now before I lay track on the layout, or build any structures.
1. What's the better (more reliable) motive power in HO?
2. What's the better rolling stock in HO?
3. Track: Up til now I've been buying Peco Code 80. What should I be looking at to price out getting HO track?
I'm pretty sure no 2009 Equinoxes were ever built with manual transmissions, so no push starting...I would think one click but no engine crank would mean a good battery but bad starter. The one click is the solid solenoid engaging.
Push start the car and wave goodbye. Remind them to park at the top of a hill.
Was it new or rebuilt? If it was rebuilt who rebuilt it? Some rebuilds have short lifespans.He said he just had the starter replaced this spring.
Knowing this guy, it's probably a rebuilt. I didn't know you could rebuild a starter?Was it new or rebuilt? If it was rebuilt who rebuilt it? Some rebuilds have short lifespans.
Troy: I forgot. Do you have a 'current clamp'? Starter solenoid is clicking so that circuit is probably working. Wonder about the amount of current present in the starter positive. The current clamp should have a 'hold' button so you can try to start the thing then check it. If zero, the solenoid is not completely engaging. Wack it with a hammer a time or two. If a low value ( less than 50A ) is present, check the starter positive cable for condensation, and have a look at the grounding point. If the current is higher than 50, wack the starter with a hammer while somebody gives starting a go. Something could point to a problem other than the starter motor.
