RETIRED GUY PROJECTS

[Kusojiji]

Hedley Lamarr

Who knows? Maybe he was a founder...

 

[DeaconKC]

Maybe you could decal one of your cars to say Lamar on it and see how many people catch it!

 

[Kusojiji]

Well, got all the electronics, lights, and speakers installed. Headlights and sound came on but no tail or cab on either end. Took the body off and the lights came back on. Checked around for short or open on the control lines but it all looked good. put it back on, no lights again. That's when I realized I had not insulated the FX boards from the metal chassis, again. May have blown the board. Going to have to take the two ends apart and let them float in the breeze and see if any wires broke. If all looks good, then the board is toast. Then it will be rip it all out, put the DC board in and be done.

 

[Kusojiji]

I ended up taking everything apart and reconnected each FX board separately, one at a time to see which one failed. Well, they both work and when I reconnected both, everything is working now. haahhh?? Dunno.

So, it's going to sit for a while so I can figure out what I want to do next. I may find a different location for the FX boards.

 

[Kusojiji]

My Hornby HM7000TXS decoders came in today, so decided to install my my old J52 0-6-0. I have two of these and both were converted to DCC a while ago.

The neat thing about this model is that the hood opens for easy access. I pulled the old decoder and SPP out. I had installed a N18 socket in it earlier.

Had to change the motor leads as they were too thick and wouldn't allow the new decoder to sit down. I have the old lead on top for illustration.

I reused the SPP (stay alive) by installing the itty bitty connector on it to fit the decoder. Once it was ready to go, I gave it a test. Runs nicely. The chuffing is a little bit out of sync and Hornby doesn't allow manual sync, so I guess I live with it. It's not too bad. I think if I change the speed curve, it might help, but not ready to take that step yet.

Printed up a speaker enclosure to fit in the coal bunker. The glue is drying now, so MTF.
Needed a break from the EF58...

 

[Kusojiji]

Printed up the speaker enclosure and mounted the speaker. Fits like a glove and is very loud being inside that space. Volume had to be turned almost all the way down.

Got it all back together. The light is at the dimmest setting for the decoder so it is what it is. Would have preferred to be a bit dimmer.

 

[migalyto]

More fantastic work as usual!

 

[Kusojiji]

Thanks! Will be tackling #2 today.

 

[Kusojiji]

Finished the other one. Changed the LED resistor to 20K so they look much better for UK steamers.

 

[Kusojiji]

Finally decided to continue with the J36 sound install. Had to extend the tender pick up wires to give me more wiggle room. These are mounted on pogo pins.

The speaker is a tight fit with the weight. The weight actually provides baffling for the hole in the tender bottom for the center wheel. I had designed a shroud for it, but ended up not needing it.

And decided to get rid of the 8 pin socket. That held me up all this time trying to figure out how to wire this. Once the 8 pin socket was gone, the options are endless. Will cut the connector off the decoder and wire in.

MTF

 

[Kusojiji]

And got her finished, finally. Direct wired the decoder and remembered to insulate this time.

Had enough room for a nano stay alive. Surprising how sound decoders are so sensitive. The loco has 6 pick up wheels per side and used to be fine with a regular decoder.

One more item off the list.

 

[DeaconKC]

Psst, you need a Kato C50 in N scale ... I know a guy who would supply one for testing!

 

[Kusojiji]

Haha, I haven't delved into n scale dcc. I'll do some research.

 

[migalyto]

Haha, I haven't delved into n scale dcc. I'll do some research.

All the N scale Kato locomotives I had, and I had a bunch were a breeze to convert to straight DCC, Never did attempt sound.

Remove the stock light board, throw down some Kapton tape and slide the new board in.

hardest thing about it was removing the darn shell!

 

[Kusojiji]

Yep, the diesels and electrics are pretty easy, but the steamers are major work. I found this guy who did a similar model C56 and learned something new. He takes VCC from the rail vice the decoder for his head lamp since he is only running 3 wires between the loco and tender.

I use the browser to translate. He has a lot of examples to follow.

KATO C56 小海線 をDCC対応化する : M R S モデルレールサービス

KATO 2020-1 C56 小海線 です。先日のD51に続いて今回はこれをDCCサウンド対応としてみました。しかしD51と違いこちらはデコーダー搭載の準備がなく、そもそもサイズが小さいのでちょっと工夫が必要だったのでした。とりあえずテンダーをバラしてみたのですが、まずD51にあっ

model-rail-service.blog.jp

 

[Kusojiji]

I took a look at the C50. If that's the Hitoyoshi one, it's quite expensive and definitely not one to experiment on. I have a few tenders for C62 hanging around and can try experimenting on them.

 

[Kusojiji]

Ok, had to try. Found that the decoder fits inside the metal frames. The sound decoder would be 8mm longer. There is a N18 pin socket underneath it.

The bigger issue is now the speaker. I have a spare 15x11x2.5mm speaker and found that there is a spot under the coal load for it. Had to clearance some of the excess plastic for it.

Put some goop to seal the speaker to the body and the sound is pretty good.

So the next task will be to get power from the rail, which I will probably get from the two frame halves in the tender. Heat it up on an IH stove and solder the wires on. Then 3 wires to the loco for motor and headlight. I think it is doable.

Oh boy...

 

[migalyto]

Ok, had to try.

Don't you just love a good challenge?

looks like your getting it figured out.

 

[Kusojiji]

I may have to order a spare D51 tender to see what that one is like as it is a bit shorter than the C62's.

 

[Kusojiji]

Took a look at a D51 tender and it may have just enough space. C62 left, D51 right.

My tail light mod would have to change to a SMD.

The only D51 tender I could find for sale is the HO one and the Orient Express one. I can't convert the Orient Express one as the passenger car lights are limited to 12V max.