RETIRED GUY PROJECTS
- Thread starter Kusojiji
- Start date
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Some guys get all the neat tools.
John
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Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Only when the boss ain't looking! haha
DeaconKC
Well-Known Member
That was worth the effort! Really sounds great.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
TOMIX MO510 DCC SOUND
Can't help myself... Started the DCC sound install, although I was originally going to just keep this DCC as there isn't much space.
So, took it all apart again and started mapping out where I can run the wires. There isn't room anywhere except for a tiny gap between the floorboard and the PCB that I can run thin, shellac wire for the motor. In fact, the two white strips on the PCB are spacers. I may double that up just to make more room.
Soldered the wires to the motor and will have to cut the leads off the motor contacts on the power pick up strips and solder wires directly to that.
The plan is to isolate the power pick ups and motor from the PCB. The motor and power pickups will be wired directly to the decoder board, which will be installed above the peoples and serve as the cab lighting holder.
Cutting the board at the dotted lines on the right will shorten it to 130mm, which should fit perfectly.
I am waiting for the mail man to bring my stuff: 1 N18 sound decoder, 1 decoder board above, 1 set of speakers, and 1 bi polarized board to run the head and tail lamps. Went with that as the PCB requires too much surgery. F0 will turn on the head lights and tail lights on the opposite ends and changing direction will reverse that.
That's the plan at least...
MTF. Hope it doesn't become WTF. haha
Can't help myself... Started the DCC sound install, although I was originally going to just keep this DCC as there isn't much space.
So, took it all apart again and started mapping out where I can run the wires. There isn't room anywhere except for a tiny gap between the floorboard and the PCB that I can run thin, shellac wire for the motor. In fact, the two white strips on the PCB are spacers. I may double that up just to make more room.
Soldered the wires to the motor and will have to cut the leads off the motor contacts on the power pick up strips and solder wires directly to that.
The plan is to isolate the power pick ups and motor from the PCB. The motor and power pickups will be wired directly to the decoder board, which will be installed above the peoples and serve as the cab lighting holder.
Cutting the board at the dotted lines on the right will shorten it to 130mm, which should fit perfectly.
I am waiting for the mail man to bring my stuff: 1 N18 sound decoder, 1 decoder board above, 1 set of speakers, and 1 bi polarized board to run the head and tail lamps. Went with that as the PCB requires too much surgery. F0 will turn on the head lights and tail lights on the opposite ends and changing direction will reverse that.
That's the plan at least...
MTF. Hope it doesn't become WTF. haha
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
The stuff came in yesterday, so full speed ahead.
I got the pickups wired and the PCB insulated from the pickups and the motor.
Then I cut the DCC board and it fits perfectly. Used a hacksaw.
Then installed the COB strip and two 603 warm white LEDs for the driver. 4.7K resistor added.
Printed up some spacers to get the board as high as possible so that the COB is not visible.
Wires needed to be connected to the DCC board: motor, head/tail lights, pickups, speaker.
I got the pickups wired and the PCB insulated from the pickups and the motor.
Then I cut the DCC board and it fits perfectly. Used a hacksaw.
Then installed the COB strip and two 603 warm white LEDs for the driver. 4.7K resistor added.
Printed up some spacers to get the board as high as possible so that the COB is not visible.
Wires needed to be connected to the DCC board: motor, head/tail lights, pickups, speaker.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Also cut an access hole in the ceiling for the decoder, stay alive and the original location for the speaker. I printed a speaker enclosure but found that it would still be too thick to fit.
Used a scroll saw and a lot of effort since the blade is old and dull. Removed the blade to go look for replacement blades today.
Used a scroll saw and a lot of effort since the blade is old and dull. Removed the blade to go look for replacement blades today.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got everything wired in and sound tested.
The head and tail lights are wired to this bi-polar board. The HL goes to the FX1, TL to FX2 and VCC to the constant current diode. The FX1 LED is the positive and FX2 LED is negative when a ground is applied to the FX1 decoder lead.
Now, have to pray that it all fits.
The head and tail lights are wired to this bi-polar board. The HL goes to the FX1, TL to FX2 and VCC to the constant current diode. The FX1 LED is the positive and FX2 LED is negative when a ground is applied to the FX1 decoder lead.
Now, have to pray that it all fits.
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
That cast iron skillet is one item I don't have on my work bench. Not sure if I have room.
Some guys get all the neat tools.
John
shortwrench
Well-Known Member
Do use the skillet as a heat sink when soldering?That cast iron skillet is one item I don't have on my work bench. Not sure if I have room.
Some guys get all the neat tools.
John
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Finally got this thing put together. Had issues with the body sitting all the way down as it kept trying to pop off, which puts the tail light lense out of alignment with the LED. Anyway, got it close enough.
Luckily, the roof fit with no issues.
Luckily, the roof fit with no issues.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Next up, my KOTODEN 3000. I already had installed DCC in it, but am going to change it to a sound decoder.
The old setup was a 6 pin.
Had to rewire for an N18 socket and had the change the head and tails lights to use the bi-polar board as the sound decoder only has up to AUX2. So, I turn F0 on, and the headlamp and opposite side tail lamp comes on.
Also added the stay alive directly to the socket. VCC and GND. Everything wired and mounted.
Then put it all together and tested.
Ready for the sound decoder.
The old setup was a 6 pin.
Had to rewire for an N18 socket and had the change the head and tails lights to use the bi-polar board as the sound decoder only has up to AUX2. So, I turn F0 on, and the headlamp and opposite side tail lamp comes on.
Also added the stay alive directly to the socket. VCC and GND. Everything wired and mounted.
Then put it all together and tested.
Ready for the sound decoder.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Had to rewire the LED board to make it work with the bi-polar board.
Before
After
I had added jumpers on the pads in 4 places, but when I woke up this morning, I figured out what I needed to do and that was put resistors instead of the jumpers since the red LED comes on and the white ones did not last night. It's because of the internal resistance is much lower than the white one.
Before
After
I had added jumpers on the pads in 4 places, but when I woke up this morning, I figured out what I needed to do and that was put resistors instead of the jumpers since the red LED comes on and the white ones did not last night. It's because of the internal resistance is much lower than the white one.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
My Hornby J52s use the old 0-6-0 chassis with the horrible pick ups. I thought the ToM nano SPP would be enough to handle it, but it wasn't. It has two .3F capacitors in series, which comes out to .15F. I had two ToM SPPs sitting around, which are 1F, but they come with 3 wires, one being a control wire for the ToM decoder to turn the SPP on or off (for programming). Since my Hornby decoders don't have this capability and only use two wires, I emailed ToM and asked if I could just tie the control line to the + line. He came back and said yes, so that's what I did.
SPP and nano-SPP
I had to also add the Hornby connector and got it all installed. Now, the sound and lights stay on for a couple of seconds vice just dying. I think because the decoder is BT, it draws a lot.
Converted both. Will be running them tonight.
SPP and nano-SPP
I had to also add the Hornby connector and got it all installed. Now, the sound and lights stay on for a couple of seconds vice just dying. I think because the decoder is BT, it draws a lot.
Converted both. Will be running them tonight.
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