RETIRED GUY PROJECTS
- Thread starter Kusojiji
- Start date
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Got to be a blast watching that thing tool around the layout!
I'd love to see those three cars on my layout pulled by a small steam loco, sound echoing against the "rock" walls. WOW !
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migalyto
Well-Known Member
Thats a great looking trolley!
Got to be a blast watching that thing tool around the layout!
Absolutely stunning !
I'd love to see those three cars on my layout pulled by a small steam loco, sound echoing against the "rock" walls. WOW !
migalyto
Well-Known Member
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Bought a Hornby HM7000TXS bluetooth sound decoder for my Bachmann Derby Lightweight DMU. Since it is a Bachmann, of course Hornby doesn't make a sound file for it, but I found that the Class 121 had the same engines. Only thing different is that the Derby had automatic tranny vice the manual of the 121. No biggie.
So, yanked out the old system and decided to make a better solution for the cabin lights. The model doesn't provide any control for the cabin lights so they are always on. This would not do.
Looking at the elex board, the two risers for the cabin lights had runners to a rectifier so that they would light up in either direction.
So I cut them.
Then I needed to wire in the AUX1 and VCC connections from the 8 pin socket since these were not used. I added a 1K resistor to the AUX1 side.
Installed the speaker in the last row of seats. The decoder comes with the speaker and different size baffles.
I also added a stay alive. Had to adjust the lights to match the other car, which has a different brand function decoder.
Sounds great!
So, yanked out the old system and decided to make a better solution for the cabin lights. The model doesn't provide any control for the cabin lights so they are always on. This would not do.
Looking at the elex board, the two risers for the cabin lights had runners to a rectifier so that they would light up in either direction.
So I cut them.
Then I needed to wire in the AUX1 and VCC connections from the 8 pin socket since these were not used. I added a 1K resistor to the AUX1 side.
Installed the speaker in the last row of seats. The decoder comes with the speaker and different size baffles.
I also added a stay alive. Had to adjust the lights to match the other car, which has a different brand function decoder.
Sounds great!
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Work on my newly acquired Kato HO EF58 has begun, just a day after delivery. I ran it for several hours in both directions and flipped it over and did it again. All is well.
So off came the body for some measurements for fitting in a sound decoder and speaker. To minimize the amount of wires between the body and chassis, I will be installing a speaker in the end 2 side of the chassis. The guy sells a speaker with the correct dimensions to fit.
While everything was apart, I added some detail to the cabs and a driver on end 1 side.
I chose #89 as she's a survivor.
Oh yeah, I pulled the pantographs off for safe keeping while I work on this thing.
MTF
So off came the body for some measurements for fitting in a sound decoder and speaker. To minimize the amount of wires between the body and chassis, I will be installing a speaker in the end 2 side of the chassis. The guy sells a speaker with the correct dimensions to fit.
While everything was apart, I added some detail to the cabs and a driver on end 1 side.
I chose #89 as she's a survivor.
Oh yeah, I pulled the pantographs off for safe keeping while I work on this thing.
MTF
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I bought a bunch of these Kato motor bogies for the EF510.
These are the same mechanism as the P42 and work awesomely. They run slow and under control. They are quite heavy as well.
So, it was time to remotor the red diesel again. I was tired of the thing going to mach 10 at 4 volts. So first order of business was to clearance the side bolsters. Basically make the top section flat for the floor board to sit on.
Then had major surgery on the floorboard.
Initial measurements was going to have the couplers at the same height, which did work out nicely.
Because the motor extends far into the cab, the cab details had to go bye bye, which is fine since I couldn't really see it anyway. So, got it all gooped together and will be running it tonight. I was able to cut the steps off of the kit's bolsters, so it looks better.
These are the same mechanism as the P42 and work awesomely. They run slow and under control. They are quite heavy as well.
So, it was time to remotor the red diesel again. I was tired of the thing going to mach 10 at 4 volts. So first order of business was to clearance the side bolsters. Basically make the top section flat for the floor board to sit on.
Then had major surgery on the floorboard.
Initial measurements was going to have the couplers at the same height, which did work out nicely.
Because the motor extends far into the cab, the cab details had to go bye bye, which is fine since I couldn't really see it anyway. So, got it all gooped together and will be running it tonight. I was able to cut the steps off of the kit's bolsters, so it looks better.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Kato HO EF58 sound installation.
Got the decoder in and had to also buy a function extender that provides 4 aux outputs - HL, right TL, left TL, cab. Needed two of these for each end. Drew these up to help with the wiring. Not using the HL since the main decoder has it there. Less extra wiring.
Got the cab lighting tackled by using some extra cut offs that I had from my n-scale lighting strips. Added a 4.7K resistor. Looks bright ala I phone.
Next up is the speaker. Bought two 20mm x 3mm speakers from the jungle site. Did some measuring and used a step drill bit.
After I got both sides done, tested to see how it would sound. Well, one of the speakers is dead. Should have tested before going through all this work. Reads as an open.
Next up is the stay alive caps. The decoder came with two 100mf, 25v caps. I put them in parallel and on a connector so that I could disconnect them if I needed to do some programming. I blew up a function decoder that I bought from this guy before when I forgot to desolder the cap. I think I'm going to have to redo the connector since the wires are too stiff, and I made them too short. I have the raw connectors, but was lazy as I used these pre-wired ones.
Got a lot done while the site was down since no time spent yacking!
Got the decoder in and had to also buy a function extender that provides 4 aux outputs - HL, right TL, left TL, cab. Needed two of these for each end. Drew these up to help with the wiring. Not using the HL since the main decoder has it there. Less extra wiring.
Got the cab lighting tackled by using some extra cut offs that I had from my n-scale lighting strips. Added a 4.7K resistor. Looks bright ala I phone.
Next up is the speaker. Bought two 20mm x 3mm speakers from the jungle site. Did some measuring and used a step drill bit.
After I got both sides done, tested to see how it would sound. Well, one of the speakers is dead. Should have tested before going through all this work. Reads as an open.
Next up is the stay alive caps. The decoder came with two 100mf, 25v caps. I put them in parallel and on a connector so that I could disconnect them if I needed to do some programming. I blew up a function decoder that I bought from this guy before when I forgot to desolder the cap. I think I'm going to have to redo the connector since the wires are too stiff, and I made them too short. I have the raw connectors, but was lazy as I used these pre-wired ones.
Got a lot done while the site was down since no time spent yacking!
Great work, I am impressed !
migalyto
Well-Known Member
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
This model didn't come with lighted tail lights. Had a nice runner and would have been easy to make the light work, but wanted to maximize the decoder settings, which includes shunting mode - which turns the right tail light on.
So, had to cut the runner and glue red LEDs to them.
Masked with two thick coats of black paint.
Installed one for testing.
And tested. No bleed through the windows. There is a bottom plate, so the stuff coming out the bottom should be ok.
So, had to cut the runner and glue red LEDs to them.
Masked with two thick coats of black paint.
Installed one for testing.
And tested. No bleed through the windows. There is a bottom plate, so the stuff coming out the bottom should be ok.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Bought a small USB powered amp so I could test the speakers and the enclosures that I've been making. I have some small rectangular speakers that I removed from some of my locos and printed up to fit in the loco. I have a MP3 player that couldn't drive the speakers. New boom box.
20mm speakers for my EF58. Had high hopes but while it is louder/more efficient, it doesn't really sound better than the tiny rectangular speaker. May be due to the brand (jungle site) or it might need better sealing. I may need to run a bead of blue tac to seal the edges against sound leakage.
Made this speaker for my EF65. There isn't much room for it, so it'll have to do without major surgery.
And my original plan for the EF58.
Used some train sounds to test, but also tried this.
20mm speakers for my EF58. Had high hopes but while it is louder/more efficient, it doesn't really sound better than the tiny rectangular speaker. May be due to the brand (jungle site) or it might need better sealing. I may need to run a bead of blue tac to seal the edges against sound leakage.
Made this speaker for my EF65. There isn't much room for it, so it'll have to do without major surgery.
And my original plan for the EF58.
Used some train sounds to test, but also tried this.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Tail lights installed and wired, along with the cab lights to the FX board. I ended up decreasing the tail light resistors from 4.7K to 1K as the diffraction at the LED to runner connection was bothering me. Went brighter to compensate for the imperfections.
Have to think about how to sequence the rest of the install as there are a lot of wires and not a lot of flexibility. The 3 pairs of wires on the decoder go to the FX boards. One of the FX boards has a jumper installed on it to make it FX5-8, which is at end 2.
MTF
Have to think about how to sequence the rest of the install as there are a lot of wires and not a lot of flexibility. The 3 pairs of wires on the decoder go to the FX boards. One of the FX boards has a jumper installed on it to make it FX5-8, which is at end 2.
MTF
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got it all wired up and tested. What I found out is that it goes backwards. The FX board with the jumper should have been end 2, but it was coming on in the fwd direction. This pic is with the fwd headlamp turned on. End 1 is the real fwd direction.
So I changed CV29 to change direction. Now the headlamp comes on and it moves in the correct direction, but the tail lights were coming on in the wrong direction still.
So I found the CVs that control these FX boards. I just swapped those settings and that fixed it. While at it, I changed the cab lights to only come on with the direction that the loco is going in. It originally came with both cab light ends coming on at the same time.
I sent an email to the designer to let him know what I did and hope it is correct. But, I have a bigger issue with the functions only staying on for 10 seconds if not moving. I hope he can tell me why and how to fix it.
So I changed CV29 to change direction. Now the headlamp comes on and it moves in the correct direction, but the tail lights were coming on in the wrong direction still.
So I found the CVs that control these FX boards. I just swapped those settings and that fixed it. While at it, I changed the cab lights to only come on with the direction that the loco is going in. It originally came with both cab light ends coming on at the same time.
I sent an email to the designer to let him know what I did and hope it is correct. But, I have a bigger issue with the functions only staying on for 10 seconds if not moving. I hope he can tell me why and how to fix it.
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
Those 3 cars in the background that say "Hedleys" made me think of Blazing Saddles and Hedley Lamarr. 
John
John
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