Painting a GE44 tonner - How crazy should I go?....
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You're very welcome!
Your Q actually reminded me to look at the smaller T/table - The "arms" are spring loaded, and "default" to ~ the width of a 1/24 car shell...... However, they are adjustable, as you can see below
One modification I made (on both) - Fix the top to the bottom! - They still rotate, but when you pick 'em up the top no longer falls off! [Don't ask
]
EDIT; Sorry 'bout the rotated pic
Cheers,
Ian
Woo-hoo, a comment! Thanks!
I've learnt quite a bit about Testors decal paper - But no one seemed interested so I pushed on..... They're actually laying down much better than when I took that shot - After they'd dried I poked at the edges with a soft brush + Microsol and they snuggled down nicely.
Got a few more to do then I'm thinking a quick spray with semi-gloss clear to seal 'em (?)
Also found a DZ143, so I'm gonna put some kind of light in the roof....
Thanks again for the comment - Appreciated!
Cheers,
Ian
So what is the answer then Ian? lol.. I have been following your thread as I'm about to start making my own decals as well for my own railroad scheme..
I certainly admire your perseverance, many many people would have binned the project at the first hurdle, but I for one am glad that you've stuck with it and now you have a decent model to show for your efforts that you should quite rightly be proud of.. No better feeling when someone asks you about a model to say 'I did that!'...
In summary - YMMV, not child proof, usual disclaimers apply etc; I now know that on my printer at least;
- The instructions say to set the job for plain paper - I get *much* better results saying glossy photo paper.
- "My" yellow works great onto white decal paper, but is useless (translucent) on the clear.
- Red & green work a treat on both.
- Don't try and do a large area of solid black - Actually, any color - I found it best to do "stripes" of different colors (potentially containing text) in sequence down the page.
- Inkscape (free) is fabulous for laying out the sheet(s).
- The human eye is *way* too sensitive to straight lines and horizontal/vertical!....
*Thankyou* for the encouragement! It really does help ["Proud" may be a little overstated right now though! But thanks anyway! ]
Drifting a little OT (heh, it's my thread after all!), I drilled a hole in the cab roof and am gonna try a little orange bulb up there - I've always used LED's in the past, so this is another new one for me. Anyone interested in the details of the decoder install?......
Cheers,
Ian
Agreed - I just finished "rev 4" of the decal sheets - "Danger, 300V", "No step" etc etc. Hopefully get those applied today and give her a shot of clear. Thanks for the tip
Man, this thing is giving me grief!..... Wired the pickups & motor, worked a treat. Put test leads onto F0F & F0R and got everything going on and off correctly (using JMRI).
Moved on to F1 and it won't turn off - It actually reads -13Vish when open circuit, but drops to zero with any load, regardless of switch position.
Oh well, try F2 - As we know, that defaults to "on only when pressed" (non latching as it were), but it was turning on my little orange beacon very nicely with a 100OHM resistor. I was poking at the settings in JMRI to get it to latch and my test leads (or a hanging wire) must have shorted as the magic smoke was released (with a surprising amount of "fuss" if I'm honest!)
I was about to return the DT400R for the upgrade, so will now pop this guy in the package as well..... [IIRC, they charge $10 for a decoder replacement?]
Back to decaling for a while!
Cheers,
Ian
Thankyou! Too early for success yet..... I'm starting to think this is the "devil engine"!.....
Connected the (tested) lights onto the tested "chassis" and was feeling confident when I put it on the track........
Nothing! - Not a damn thing!
Turns out the red lead has become detached at the decoder
WTF!..... Is it possible to cut the shrink wrap back and get to the pad? [I guess I'm about to find out]
Ian
Yes it is. I actually got it soldered back on, and it all worked.
For a moment!..... Turns out the black, attached alongside the now good red, was hanging on by the proverbial thread, and it too then fell off
The resultant fix-it attempts then interfered with the red pad, and it all went down hill from there - It hasn't let the smoke out, but I dunno how to un-short the two pads (?)
Thanks! - I was kinda satisfied with the results of a little weathering. Was looking forward to playing with the beacon as well. *Another* decoder for the return pile!..... [I swear I didn't abuse it - It honestly looks like the red & black were never "properly" connected]
Oh well - Almost!
Cheers,
Ian
Thanks!
I only just noticed that one of the windows in the pic had "blown out" - Rather than the thick clear things I'm trying Micromarks "Micro Glaze" - It was looking OK until I sprayed the clearcoat [another lesson learnt!]. I may still cut it out (easy) and redo it or just use the plastic - Dunno yet.
FWIW - I'd say that with a pencil tip you've got one-shot at getting a single wire back in place. After that, all bets are off.....
Cheers,
Ian
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wheeler1963
Wheeler's Trains
Ian, Thank you!!!
You're very welcome!
Your Q actually reminded me to look at the smaller T/table - The "arms" are spring loaded, and "default" to ~ the width of a 1/24 car shell...... However, they are adjustable, as you can see below
One modification I made (on both) - Fix the top to the bottom! - They still rotate, but when you pick 'em up the top no longer falls off! [Don't ask
]EDIT; Sorry 'bout the rotated pic
Cheers,
Ian
Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
I have the same stand plus a few others I've made/bought over the years. One o my favorites is one of the mini bar clamps. They're very handy for cars and other items.
Here's what I'm talking about. Not bad for $1.99!
Here's what I'm talking about. Not bad for $1.99!
Woo-hoo, a comment! Thanks!
I've learnt quite a bit about Testors decal paper - But no one seemed interested so I pushed on..... They're actually laying down much better than when I took that shot - After they'd dried I poked at the edges with a soft brush + Microsol and they snuggled down nicely.
Got a few more to do then I'm thinking a quick spray with semi-gloss clear to seal 'em (?)
Also found a DZ143, so I'm gonna put some kind of light in the roof....
Thanks again for the comment - Appreciated!
Cheers,
Ian
Scordicus
Member
So what is the answer then Ian? lol.. I have been following your thread as I'm about to start making my own decals as well for my own railroad scheme..
I certainly admire your perseverance, many many people would have binned the project at the first hurdle, but I for one am glad that you've stuck with it and now you have a decent model to show for your efforts that you should quite rightly be proud of.. No better feeling when someone asks you about a model to say 'I did that!'...
In summary - YMMV, not child proof, usual disclaimers apply etc; I now know that on my printer at least;
- The instructions say to set the job for plain paper - I get *much* better results saying glossy photo paper.
- "My" yellow works great onto white decal paper, but is useless (translucent) on the clear.
- Red & green work a treat on both.
- Don't try and do a large area of solid black - Actually, any color - I found it best to do "stripes" of different colors (potentially containing text) in sequence down the page.
- Inkscape (free) is fabulous for laying out the sheet(s).
- The human eye is *way* too sensitive to straight lines and horizontal/vertical!....
*Thankyou* for the encouragement! It really does help
["Proud" may be a little overstated right now though! But thanks anyway! ]Drifting a little OT (heh, it's my thread after all!), I drilled a hole in the cab roof and am gonna try a little orange bulb up there - I've always used LED's in the past, so this is another new one for me. Anyone interested in the details of the decoder install?......
Cheers,
Ian
Agreed - I just finished "rev 4" of the decal sheets - "Danger, 300V", "No step" etc etc. Hopefully get those applied today and give her a shot of clear. Thanks for the tip
Man, this thing is giving me grief!..... Wired the pickups & motor, worked a treat. Put test leads onto F0F & F0R and got everything going on and off correctly (using JMRI).
Moved on to F1 and it won't turn off - It actually reads -13Vish when open circuit, but drops to zero with any load, regardless of switch position.
Oh well, try F2 - As we know, that defaults to "on only when pressed" (non latching as it were), but it was turning on my little orange beacon very nicely with a 100OHM resistor. I was poking at the settings in JMRI to get it to latch and my test leads (or a hanging wire) must have shorted as the magic smoke was released (with a surprising amount of "fuss" if I'm honest!)
I was about to return the DT400R for the upgrade, so will now pop this guy in the package as well..... [IIRC, they charge $10 for a decoder replacement?]
Back to decaling for a while!
Cheers,
Ian
Well, it's almost done. The motor is working, just got to connect the lights and attach the handrails, and we're there.
A while back I mailed Testors and asked if there was a shelf life on the decal paper - The responded with the expected, "yeah, but it's pretty indeterminate depending on conditions etc". I guess 3+ years in a CA garage was too much for it. Anyway, they went beyond the call of duty by offering to send "some replacements" given my address, and a nice new pack of white sheets just arrived.
Kudos to Testors.
Cheers,
Ian
A while back I mailed Testors and asked if there was a shelf life on the decal paper - The responded with the expected, "yeah, but it's pretty indeterminate depending on conditions etc". I guess 3+ years in a CA garage was too much for it. Anyway, they went beyond the call of duty by offering to send "some replacements" given my address, and a nice new pack of white sheets just arrived.
Kudos to Testors.
Cheers,
Ian
Thankyou! Too early for success yet..... I'm starting to think this is the "devil engine"!.....
Connected the (tested) lights onto the tested "chassis" and was feeling confident when I put it on the track........
Nothing! - Not a damn thing!
Turns out the red lead has become detached at the decoder
WTF!..... Is it possible to cut the shrink wrap back and get to the pad? [I guess I'm about to find out
]Ian
VirginiaCityDave
New Member
Ian,it looks a lot better with the R.R. name across the hoods!
.... Is it possible to cut the shrink wrap back and get to the pad? [I guess I'm about to find out
Yes it is. I actually got it soldered back on, and it all worked.
For a moment!..... Turns out the black, attached alongside the now good red, was hanging on by the proverbial thread, and it too then fell off
The resultant fix-it attempts then interfered with the red pad, and it all went down hill from there - It hasn't let the smoke out, but I dunno how to un-short the two pads (?)
Thanks! - I was kinda satisfied with the results of a little weathering. Was looking forward to playing with the beacon as well. *Another* decoder for the return pile!..... [I swear I didn't abuse it - It honestly looks like the red & black were never "properly" connected
]Oh well - Almost!
Cheers,
Ian
Thanks!
I only just noticed that one of the windows in the pic had "blown out" - Rather than the thick clear things I'm trying Micromarks "Micro Glaze" - It was looking OK until I sprayed the clearcoat [another lesson learnt!]. I may still cut it out (easy) and redo it or just use the plastic - Dunno yet.
FWIW - I'd say that with a pencil tip you've got one-shot at getting a single wire back in place. After that, all bets are off.....
Cheers,
Ian
VirginiaCityDave
New Member
So much for every decoder being tested after assembly!
I installed my first decoder last week(all went perfectly!)
and read the Digitrax decoder manual.
I installed my first decoder last week(all went perfectly!)
and read the Digitrax decoder manual.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)