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Just got this 1946 Lionel 1665 diecast 0-4-0 and 2403b bell ringer tender all the way from California to New Jersey. Got her from an Ebay auction for $32, and while she definitely needs work, for the price I paid, I can't complain. Plus, it gives me another thing to stream on Twitch. The hardest part'll probably be the center rail pickup shoes, since I'll probably have to fabricate replacements myself out of brass sheet, but I'll also probably need to replace the loco-tender connection wires, as 1 is missing and the other is damaged, and even the wire connecting to the tender pickup roller also probably needs to be replaced as well. Sidenote, what kind of plug do I need to replace the 1 that's missing?
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Update: I took her apart to service her, got her running on the bench, put her back together, and now she won't run at all, assembled or disassembled, on the bench or on the track. No idea what's wrong, I cleaned everything up, (I have never seen a commutator that filthy before) the brushes were basically brand new, so I left them as-is, lubricated everything that needed lube, "fixed" the loose E-unit lever, the only thing I haven't touched are the center rail pickup shoes. Idk what I can do that I haven't already done
 
If it’s not shorting I’d check for continuity starting at the wheels and working thru the system.
I’m not an O scaler but I do have quite a bit for some reason, some of the guys here should have a better idea.
 


I'd love to do that, in fact I have 2 things I'd like to do that to, (oddly enough, both are model 0-4-0s whose real-life basis was not an 0-4-0) but my multimeter is broken, and I haven't gotten around to buying a new one yet
 
Ok, multimeter randomly started working again, so, with it set to 2000 ohms, connecting the front pickup shoe to any wheel, the E-unit, or any wheel, or the E-unit to the frame, the frame to any of the wheels, or connecting any 2 wheels together caused the number on the screen to jump around like crazy between 4 digits in the positive and 2 digits in the negative, but connecting any wheel, the E-unit, or the frame to the rear shoe read a steady 1 Ohm, and the 2 shoes together a steady 0 Ohms. I think one of the pickup shoes is at least part of the issue, and when I try to bench test it with the front pickup shoe I get an extremely weak spark on the wheel and no movement, but when I do the same with the rear pickup, I get nothing, not even a spark
 
These engines are desirable because they are rare. I suggest you get a Postwar Repair Guide on page 123 Greenberg Ed. for a parts breakdown.
The sliding shoe you need is 1666-33.
The plug socket goes into the left side hole and is connected to the plastic sliding shoe on the rear tender truck with the rear coupler.
Using a ucs track you can remotely operate both couplers.
 
I have a greenberg's guide, and it's wonderful, I just wish it had literally anything on tenders, since I'm probably gonna have to completely rewire this thing's 2403b, as one of the two wires going to the locomotive is missing, and most of the remaining wire is in bad shape and I don't feel comfortable trying to use it

Yes, I'm aware, and at some point I may try to swap in the magnetic front coupler from a 1615 because parking the tender on an accessory track to open the front coupler is less than ideal, especially for a switcher
 
Ok, multimeter randomly started working again, so, with it set to 2000 ohms, connecting the front pickup shoe to any wheel, the E-unit, or any wheel, or the E-unit to the frame, the frame to any of the wheels, or connecting any 2 wheels together caused the number on the screen to jump around like crazy between 4 digits in the positive and 2 digits in the negative, but connecting any wheel, the E-unit, or the frame to the rear shoe read a steady 1 Ohm, and the 2 shoes together a steady 0 Ohms. I think one of the pickup shoes is at least part of the issue, and when I try to bench test it with the front pickup shoe I get an extremely weak spark on the wheel and no movement, but when I do the same with the rear pickup, I get nothing, not even a spark
The two sliding pickup shoes obtain electricity from the "hot" center rail, and are connected together. They supply the hot power to the E-unit, the light bulb, and the magnetic uncouplers, if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly. Your two outer rails are the "common", or ground. In general terms and in most cases, the entire wiring loom is for the "hot" power. Thereby leaving the locomotive shell, the frame, and the wheels to act as the "common", or the ground.

Basically, the wiring is pretty simple, so you need to check for either a broken wire, or else a shorting wire somewhere in the system. Unfortunately I can't help with the electrical plugs for the uncouplers, as I've never dealt with them before. I would think that someone would at least offer reproductions, if not originals salvaged from existing parts locos.
These engines are desirable because they are rare. I suggest you get a Postwar Repair Guide on page 123 Greenberg Ed. for a parts breakdown.
The sliding shoe you need is 1666-33.
The plug socket goes into the left side hole and is connected to the plastic sliding shoe on the rear tender truck with the rear coupler.
Using a ucs track you can remotely operate both couplers.
HI Dub! Some of Lionel's Loco's were kind of mess in the early postwar period, due to changes made from one year to the next. And this 1665 loco in no exception. Looking at TRP's pictures, I'm fairly confident he has a 1946 production loco, as seen here............. Lionel 1665 Loco
Reading this information, they say to see the No. 1656 loco for the alteration that occurred to this locomotive in 1947. At any rate, TRP's sliding shoe electrical pickup system is going to be far more akin to the Nos. 1654 and 1655 locos (Greenberg pages 118 thru 122) rather than the No. 1656 pickup system, which shows roller pickups in lieu of sliding shoes, along with their different part numbers of course.

Also, the sliding shoes are noted as part no. 1661-33, and NOT 1666-33 (typo, most likely?). Reproduction sliding shoes ARE easily available from parts suppliers with on-line stores and Ebay, as I have ordered some recently this year for my own locos. Shop around a little and you can find multi-packs (I dunno, 10 or 12 shoes or fewer or more) for not a whole lot more than just one pair of shoes. Sliding shoes tend to wear pretty fast, so I'd recommend getting at least a small multi pack if one wants to run a sliding shoe loco quite frequently.

Hope this helps! :)👍
 
Unfortunately I can't help with the electrical plugs for the uncouplers, as I've never dealt with them before. I would think that someone would at least offer reproductions, if not originals salvaged from existing parts locos.
Oh, I can get reproduction plugs from The Train Tender, that's not an issue, (part number 2403T-13 if you're curious) and I have 1 plug, so I could run either the front coupler or the extra ground via the tender, but I'd need to buy another to get both, which I plan on doing
Sliding shoes tend to wear pretty fast, so I'd recommend getting at least a small multi pack if one wants to run a sliding shoe loco quite frequently.
I'll look into that, but worst-case scenario, I was planning on converting her to an 0-6-0 at some point anyway, so if the motor's junk, (which I doubt) it's not the end of the world
 




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