My New-to-me 1946 Lionel 1665 0-4-0

[The Railroading Phoenix]

Just got this 1946 Lionel 1665 diecast 0-4-0 and 2403b bell ringer tender all the way from California to New Jersey. Got her from an Ebay auction for $32, and while she definitely needs work, for the price I paid, I can't complain. Plus, it gives me another thing to stream on Twitch. The hardest part'll probably be the center rail pickup shoes, since I'll probably have to fabricate replacements myself out of brass sheet, but I'll also probably need to replace the loco-tender connection wires, as 1 is missing and the other is damaged, and even the wire connecting to the tender pickup roller also probably needs to be replaced as well. Sidenote, what kind of plug do I need to replace the 1 that's missing?

 

[The Railroading Phoenix]

Update: I took her apart to service her, got her running on the bench, put her back together, and now she won't run at all, assembled or disassembled, on the bench or on the track. No idea what's wrong, I cleaned everything up, (I have never seen a commutator that filthy before) the brushes were basically brand new, so I left them as-is, lubricated everything that needed lube, "fixed" the loose E-unit lever, the only thing I haven't touched are the center rail pickup shoes. Idk what I can do that I haven't already done

 

[Rico]

If it’s not shorting I’d check for continuity starting at the wheels and working thru the system.
I’m not an O scaler but I do have quite a bit for some reason, some of the guys here should have a better idea.

 

[The Railroading Phoenix]

I'd love to do that, in fact I have 2 things I'd like to do that to, (oddly enough, both are model 0-4-0s whose real-life basis was not an 0-4-0) but my multimeter is broken, and I haven't gotten around to buying a new one yet

 

[The Railroading Phoenix]

Ok, multimeter randomly started working again, so, with it set to 2000 ohms, connecting the front pickup shoe to any wheel, the E-unit, or any wheel, or the E-unit to the frame, the frame to any of the wheels, or connecting any 2 wheels together caused the number on the screen to jump around like crazy between 4 digits in the positive and 2 digits in the negative, but connecting any wheel, the E-unit, or the frame to the rear shoe read a steady 1 Ohm, and the 2 shoes together a steady 0 Ohms. I think one of the pickup shoes is at least part of the issue, and when I try to bench test it with the front pickup shoe I get an extremely weak spark on the wheel and no movement, but when I do the same with the rear pickup, I get nothing, not even a spark

 

[Dub]

These engines are desirable because they are rare. I suggest you get a Postwar Repair Guide on page 123 Greenberg Ed. for a parts breakdown.
The sliding shoe you need is 1666-33.
The plug socket goes into the left side hole and is connected to the plastic sliding shoe on the rear tender truck with the rear coupler.
Using a ucs track you can remotely operate both couplers.