my first kit

[Midnught Special]

Ok im gonna start putting a kit together (unassembled box car) and I know I need glue or some sort of model cement, but other things im not 100% sure on, so I figured I would post to get other peoples suggestions of things I should get have! yes I plan to dry fit every thing that I can as I go along!!


so what should I look into getting? brands, items, ect, ect


The kit:

 

[PaulB]

Just getting the ball rolling. Hopefully others will jump in with better ideas so I can learn something too. Here goes....



Glue:

CA (superglue); bonds everything but leaves a white frost. Keep it away from any windows (not an issue with a box car but just so you know).

MEK; wields styrene together. Need clean surfaces with no paint. Try not to breath it in.

Plastic kit cement. I find it to be messy, but it won't leave a frost and can glue over paint to a limited degree.



I am interested in hearing about other glues as these three aren't ideal for everthing.




Tools:

Fine side cutter, spur cutter specialist being best, for removing the parts.

Hobby knife with spare blades. The blades lose their edge quickly (ie: blunt enough not to cut cleanly with no force but still sharp enough to cut figure easily).

Jewellers file set. I use two, one cheapy for plastic and wood, and a nice set of diamond files for metal work.

Tweezers and needle nose pliers for manipulation. The needle nose pliers would be better if they have very little gap between the teeth so you can grip fine wire.

Pin vice (actually a tiny hand drill) and drill bits.

And the two obligatory gauges for HO: NMRA wheel and track gauge and the Kadee coupler height gauge.



That should do as a basic tool kit. These are the main tools I use (though my side cutters broke the other day and my needle nose pliers are 20 years old and in need of replacement). Most of it is very cheap but I'd suggest going the extra mile and getting expensive US or Japanese made side cutters. Wouldn't hurt to get top line needle nose pliers too. Could be wise to try Xuron. My experience is quality counts with pliers and cutters (as in: mine are cheap Chinese rubbish and are a constant source of frustration).

 

[NH Mike]

It wouldn't hurt to pick up a package of each, 400 grit and 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper, the black or dark grey colored stuff. Fold the sheets in 1/4's back and forth a couple of times with a nice sharp crease and then tear them into the smaller 1/4 size sheets. You'd be surprised how often you'll find a use for the sandpaper.

A model railroad reference ruler which has scale dimensions for N, HO, S & O is also a basic for the workbench and also doubles as a straight edge when working with sheet products like wood or styrene.

 

[Larry]

I go thru a bunch of E6000 every year. The cheapest place is Walmart at $2.97 a tube. I use toothpicks to apply it in sm. area's. You can use it as a straight glue or like contact cement. I glue a lot of coupler boxes on w/it w/out using screws. Need to let it dry for at least 12 hrs. to make it work good. Although sometimes I just wait about an hour.
I use the Super Glue in the small plastic bottle. You get 2 in a pkg. for a buck at the Dollar Tree. Sometimes it doesn't glue 2 pcs. together right away, but, after it works you will need dyneomite(sp) to seperate the pieces. The Super glue in the tubes leaves a clouded haze on what ever you join together. Only use a toothpick to apply it.
There's some other glues I use, but, they melt some plastics.

 

[UPBigBoy]

I would replace the plastic ladders and grab handles with metal ones. A set of GOOD trucks and a pair of the proper Kadee couplers. Are you leaving it the colour and decaled the way it is? If so it would be a good idea to spray it with a dull finish to protect the factory installed decals; if not then a decal set and paint of the colours of choice.

 

[trailrider]

Just a few words (if that's possible for me...) on adhesives, cements, etc: Except for glues like TiteBond, Elmer's Glueall (used to bond wood, paper, etc.), most of these are solvent based, and therefore should be used in a well-ventilated area. The cyanoacrylate (CA or sometimes called ACC) cements, whether fast-drying, like Krazy Glue, or slower-drying, but still CA, need to be handled with caution. They will glue your fingers together, AND YOUR EYELIDS!, if you aren't careful. I use vinyl gloves found at most pharmacies to protect my hands. I also recommend using eye protection (I personally use a full-face mask from Sears, Big Box, etc., but I guess most folks won't go that far. Avoid looking down on work that is being glued using CA's as the vapors will rise and can, at best be irritating to the eyes. If you should glue your fingers together without gloves, nail polish remover will help separate the skin. If you have eye problems RESULTING FROM CA SEEK DOCTOR'S HELP IMMEDIATELY! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WASH THE EYELIDS, AND NEVER USE NAIL POLISH REMOVER TO SEPARATE STUCK EYELIDS!

Don't mean to scare you. Just be careful. CA can be especially good for certain modelling tasks. You just have to be cautious when working with it.

The fume from other glues which contain solvents shouldn't be inhaled or allowed to accumulate in a closed area. That doesn't mean you have to work outdoors; just not in your closet. And if you feel woozy, get some fresh air.

I find Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models #8872, with the "needle" tip dispenser to be a great one because you can control the small amount needed to glue most styrene models. Testors has a similar product, but the bottle has a plastic nozzle, and if it gets really plugged up is almost impossible to unplug. The Model Master metal nozzle can usually be unplugged using a .015" steel wire. (I bought a piece, bent one end into a loop that I can hold with my thumb and forefinger, and use it to unstop the needle tube. But, if you put the plastic screw cap back on in a couple of minutes or so, the tube probably won't plug anyway.

Hope this helps...

 

[waltr]

Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models #8872
is my choice of glues for plastic kits.

Since this is your first kit build it exactly to the instructions. Later, when you get better with building kits then think about replace plastic ladders and grabs with metal parts.

 

[Midnught Special]

Ok, if I want something thats friendly to the environment (IE others in the apartment, and useable indoors/out doors). as i dont think ill be able to work out doors too much...(small deck and people and I don't want to loose the smal parts due to wind).


also on another matter, I do want to replace cheap plastic with metal parts when/where possible...what/how should I go about that...


So far heres what I got from the thread for my list.

1 train kit (of my choice)
CA glue from testors
mask
fan (to repel the fumes)
gloves
needle nose tweezers


any thing else? what about optics?

 

[UPBigBoy]

]A lite magnifier works great, good for high lighting and show the smaller aras/parts when working on them, you can usually find them in second hand stores for under $10.00 - just make sure the extender arms tighten up to hold the head in place. If you're not sure what they look like here's a picture View attachment 31581

This one uses a bulb, you can get ones with LEDs but of course the price goes up fairly quickly.

 

[diburning]

Looks like you have a Branchline Blueprint Series kit. As for glues, I use CA (from the dollar store, or I use my bottle of Micro-Bond) and Testors Model Master cement (for stuff that CA refuses to hold onto)

 

[Midnught Special]

is a branchline kit a good kit? or are there better kits out there?

 

[Mattchu60]

Brancline kits build very nicely detailed cars. They do take a while to build and there are many small parts, but the parts do go together easily. If this is your first kit ever, I would start with an old BB athearn or a Accurail boxcar.

 

[blackz28]

i second that , i built 6 cattle cars & man really nice , but they are alot to do for your first kit , if done right you will love the results

 

[Midnught Special]

I got this partly because Doug (my buddy who wants to get into our hobby with me and possibly build a small layout with me) bought it for me, so I would like to try it but don't want to ruin it so if I should go with something simple, whats the best route? and what MFG and where could I pick one up? (sites?) sorry for all the noobish questions, making models arn't my forte so to say but I do know how to modify/work on some types of models....(cars mostly)

 

[Midnught Special]

I would replace the plastic ladders and grab handles with metal ones. A set of GOOD trucks and a pair of the proper Kadee couplers. Are you leaving it the colour and decaled the way it is? If so it would be a good idea to spray it with a dull finish to protect the factory installed decals; if not then a decal set and paint of the colours of choice.

Sorry UP just saw your post (was on phone before so couldnt read every thing) and relized I didn't answer you yet...

yes it already has decorations on it, the sides were pre painted, in Kraft cheese scheme, it is one of those old "bill board" cars, so all paint will more or less be left "as is"



also to anyone else, where can I pick up these metal replacement pieces? if im gonna do it I might as well do it properly!!

 

[NH Mike]

Jim if you have built model cars you shouldn't have any trouble with trains. Skills are basically the same except you will be working with much smaller and at this point unfamiliar parts and details. I'm guessing the cars you've built are 1/24 or 1/25 scale and except for the snap kits the car models have a lot more parts than the average HO boxcar or reefer car. You'll do fine. Just take your time and if you get stuck just ask here and you'll get some great advice. A huge amount of knowledge and experience with the members of this forum.

( added after reply ) - Unless some filing or sanding was needed during assembly and removed some of the paint where it shows you shouldn't need to worry about the paint. Weathering to make it look well used and less brand new is something most of us do to some extent or another and can be done with paints or chalks. Weathering is also something you can go back and do to an assembled car sometime in the future. Build the kit right out of the box for now and see how it turns out. That's how most of started out. Have fun.

 

[Midnught Special]

most cars I delt with were 1:18 scale, and most of the time it was to install lights in them (police cars), most of them sadly came pre assembled tho, but what ever, I plan to take this car one step at a time and do the basics to get it running and then go from there!


as for the lamp with magnifier, thats what I want, they are usually bright and put light where I want it, what type of lamp are they? I would like one with LEDs as I could be using this hours on end but I need it nice and bright too!! (yes I have bad eyes so tiny things will be the down fall here so thats why i want a lamp with magnifier)

 

[UPBigBoy]

most cars I delt with were 1:18 scale, and most of the time it was to install lights in them (police cars), most of them sadly came pre assembled tho, but what ever, I plan to take this car one step at a time and do the basics to get it running and then go from there!


as for the lamp with magnifier, thats what I want, they are usually bright and put light where I want it, what type of lamp are they? I would like one with LEDs as I could be using this hours on end but I need it nice and bright too!! (yes I have bad eyes so tiny things will be the down fall here so thats why i want a lamp with magnifier)

The lamps should be available at Staples/Office Depot and some time Walmart has them. I have also seen them at Micheals but their price seems higher than most. The nice thing about the LED lighted one (they do cost more though)is there isn't too much heat given off as the one with the bulb can get hot, I've even heard of the heat from the bulb warping some plastic parts that one was hold under the magnifier.

 

[RW&C]

I've glued my fingers together with CA more times than I want to think about... and glued myself to the models. I've never needed any solvent to get myself unstuck, just roll and pull, but sometimes I leave a little skin on the model... which isn't exactly desirable. Also, it won't hurt if it's on your fingers, but get a drop of CA on your arm or something and it'll itch like crazy. And yeah, the fumes make your eyes itch, but only if you squeeze out gobs of the stuff... squeeze out a little, put it where you want it, you can squeeze more if you want. I got a bunch of little tubes cheap at Walmart IIRC.

Also, if you try to epoxy over wet superglue, it turns white and smokes. :shock: Surprised me... still seemed to bond okay, but I should've let the room air out!

You might also try building the kit in a baking pan or something with raised edges... small parts like to fly away into the unknown from time to time.

 

[PaulB]

Oh ya, epoxy... Well, since we are on the OH&S subject, epoxy is one of the few modelling chemicals I treat with extreme caution. It is a very nasty carcinogen, so don't even touch it. I use safety gloves (the surgery type) and only use it out doors. Epoxy is inert after it sets, but it is something you don't want to contact with your skin while it is still reactive (comes in two parts, both are nasty before they set).

The general rule is good ventilation and eye protection.

I had lab saftey training as part of my degree, so I have a habit of thinking everyone knows about this stuff. The epoxy glues and resins are particularly nasty so treat with caution.




I thought I'd add some pics of a foreign prototype kit I built a few years ago. It was a polyurethane based kit.

The tricky bit was that the castings were of low precision and I had to file joints into shape and falten warping in components before being able to assemble the model. Some details had to be built from scratch and I made my own arrangements for fastening the body to underframe. The whitemetal bogies (trucks) were assembled from components. I had to modify the body to fit kadees.

This is what I'd call a tricky kit. But with patient and time, (and rewriting the instructions) anyone could build it. This type of kit might be similar to Funaro & Camerlengo kits of Westerfield kits. For those unusually prototypes, these kits are a lot easier than scratch building.