Magilla’s first layout build.

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You’re doing a bang up job on the layout , I’m super impressed with your trees. Planting the trunks may be a bit of a task depending how you go abouts it.
Seeing the cookie cutter bench work brings back memories, works well when you’re working off a solid bench top.
 
I plan on planting them in plaster Or clay.
You may consider an epoxy like JB weld. I use that to plant things on my layout if they are irregular. I will put down a glob and before it hardens get my object straight. "JB quick" is the specific product I have moved to since it starts to get hard in a minute or so and within 5 minutes I can take away any support (usually). If it trees I am putting in, I will apply some glue product and sprinkle ground cover on top and I have never been disappointed.
 


Going for a cottonwood with this one. 5C4B1B49-FCA6-4FFF-AF5F-15700A56D507.jpeg
 
You may consider an epoxy like JB weld. I use that to plant things on my layout if they are irregular. I will put down a glob and before it hardens get my object straight. "JB quick" is the specific product I have moved to since it starts to get hard in a minute or so and within 5 minutes I can take away any support (usually). If it trees I am putting in, I will apply some glue product and sprinkle ground cover on top and I have never been disappointed.
I’ll glue them down with something. I plan on glueing the track to the bridges, so I’ll have some, clear silicone maybe.
 


Those tree look amazing! I really enjoyed twisting up trees using wire. They look like mature trees you would see in a park, or along an old boulevard style road with huge Victorian style homes.

For water, be sure to do your research. Most product doesn't do well with a deep pour. Most product will only do well if you pour about 1/8" or less at a time.

I researched and researched, and ended up using Acrylic Gloss Medium and added a little burnt umber to add silt to my river. I poured right about 1/8" thick, and ended up with a lot of cracking/fissures, as the surface formed a "skin" as it dried a little faster than than the, still liquid, pool beneath it. This stuff shrinks a bit as it dries... If the surface dries too quickly, it will crack, and teh crack will continue to get larger as the product continues to cure.
 


Here is some information I found in regards to Acrylic Gloss Medium. I have no idea if Mod Podge resin is the same or not...

Acrylic Gloss medium is just like acrylic paint, but it has no pigment. It comes a milky white liquid, but dries hard and crystal clear. It shrinks a bit as it dries, so it contains polymer binders that try to keep it from cracking (called glazing) as it dries. If the pour is too deep, the skin dries too quickly compared to the pool beneath it, it will overcome the strength of the binders, and a crack will form. As the product cures, the crack gets bigger until it all has fully cured. The deeper the pour, the wider the fissure.

Thinning the product can also cause cracking, as it also thins out the binders.

Also... using heat or moving air to speed up the drying is not advices either... Basically... It's not meant to be used too thick.

Here is a picture of a pour I did that was right about 1/8" think. This was 2 quarts of Envirotex Acrylic Gloss Medium, with a little bit of raw umber color, poured over a blue/green painted river bed. The fissures are deep and wide. You can see where I added some more product into the fissures to try to obscure them a bit. The stuff I added is still milky white.
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