Kriegsloks building shops

[TheXModelRailroader]

Keep up the good work. Your skills inspire me.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

Looking great! You're very patient and talented to put all of that plumbing on the engine and to go through that many prime, paint, and bake cycles. I'm not so sure that I could have done all of that. Well done!

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Looking great! You're very patient and talented to put all of that plumbing on the engine and to go through that many prime, paint, and bake cycles. I'm not so sure that I could have done all of that. Well done!

I'm actually being somewhat lazy here. Instead of mixing 1:1 model paint and thinner like real modelers would do and using an airbrush, i just use automotive spray. Both primer and black are in cans. The only model paint was the brushed grimy black on the smokebox. Quick clear at the end was also automotive spray. If i can ease the process a little, i do exactly that. Cleaning airbrush after even one cycle is a PITA. While the parts were in the oven, i was able to tackle the issues with the valve gear.

 

[TheXModelRailroader]

I'm actually being somewhat lazy here. Instead of mixing 1:1 model paint and thinner like real modelers would do and using an airbrush, i just use automotive spray. Both primer and black are in cans. The only model paint was the brushed grimy black on the smokebox. Quick clear at the end was also automotive spray. If i can ease the process a little, i do exactly that. Cleaning airbrush after even one cycle is a PITA. While the parts were in the oven, i was able to tackle the issues with the valve gear.

That's nothing. I just use plain jane acrylic paint (for my blacks anyway). It works pretty well.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

That's nothing. I just use plain jane acrylic paint (for my blacks anyway). It works pretty well.

Everyone has a dirty little secret on this forum.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

A little progress has been made on the electric side of the decapod

First i came up with the basic wire for pickup tabs to be soldered onto. Then additions were soldered into main back plate, these are to hold the wire in place:

The bend in the wire is actually isolated, both ends of the wire run into the common insulation piece but are not touching inside the insulation. Tabs were soldered in to hold the wire in place:

I might have to solder in another cross tab in the rear to hold those sticking out ends for extra protection in case of a derailment. So the pickup tabs will be soldered to the main wire and then i'll have to run vertical wires into the motor cradle to actually be able to connect them to the motor.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I'm curious to know what soldering iron you use. My soldering "skills" range from bad to worse. I'm inclined to think that my cheap soldering iron might be part of the problem. But then again, maybe not...

 

[TheXModelRailroader]

I'm curious to know what soldering iron you use. My soldering "skills" range from bad to worse. I'm inclined to think that my cheap soldering iron might be part of the problem. But then again, maybe not...

Yeah, I second this. I have only used my iron for wires. How do you solder metal. High end soldering iron?

 

[KriegslokBR52]

I'm curious to know what soldering iron you use. My soldering "skills" range from bad to worse. I'm inclined to think that my cheap soldering iron might be part of the problem. But then again, maybe not...

I have three ways i solder:

This pistol grip Weller has been serving me for probably around 20 years. My first one blew up. Not everything can be soldered with it, but if i build a soldering jig, pieces can be added to the work.
The resistor soldering station i purchased at the beginning of this decapod project, mostly because all the masters in the trade use it. Resistor soldering is great for detail work if you don't want to heat too much around the immediate area. It shoots a high heat in a tiny area so that detail can be added, it's pedal operated and i'm amazed that i didn't follow the advice of the experienced modelers by not getting it sooner:

This one i've got straight from a Micromark representative at one of the large Greenberg train shows in New Jersey, but you can order it directly from Micromark. The most recommended of the resistance soldering stations is the so called "American Beauty" and it's more expensive than the one i have (i paid $180 for mine). Last, is the great for thick work mini torch:

This Bernzomatic is available in any home improvement stores, like Lowes or Home Depot. It's the best when heavy thick brass pieces, like the main frame of the steam locomotive needs to be put together. I have also had to resort to it when adding small pieces to large thick brass, because the resistor station just wouldn't heat the main part enough. I use a lot of jigs made in place for my soldering and various sizes of alligator clips to hold work in place:

This double clip steel piece i received from the Micromark guy as a bonus:

It's very useful when using mini torch for preventing heat buildup around other areas. The piece of white wood i have used since highschool when i first started my journey with soldering:

Rail nails sometimes with the heads cut off, hold the work in place and can be easily added or removed as needed with a good set of needlenose pliers. The wood piece is great if you use normal soldering iron and need more spread heat than what the resistor station can provide. And keep the work clean, dirt buildup can really make everything harder.

 

[Marlin338MX]

Thank you the informative reply, much appreciated!

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Work on the brakes continued:

Of course i've had to simplify the brakes to fit everything in and not to cause any binding. Things are still very tight in there and i still have to solder in the pickup tabs for electrical pickup.

Several insulation pieces had to be fitted in.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

With just about every part painted, i'm slowly putting everything together:

The bottom plate still needs pickup tabs soldered on, but the main wires are in already (see those two sticking up). Quick assembly but some valve gear parts are still in the oven:

 

[KriegslokBR52]

It's been a while since i last worked on the F-1, but today being a day off and wet outside, i've sat down to do some more work on it. It was time to take the locomotive apart and solder electric pickup tabs into the pick up wires for the main drivers. Do to space being very tight in the bottom plate i only managed to solder three tabs on each side (six pickup points in total). That means i'll have to make pickup tabs on one of the tender trucks for more effective electrical pick up.

The pickup tabs are some bronze tabs form junk Piko BR11 which i've had for a long time:

There's also painted reverse lincage ready to be put back on.

Last the bottom plate with the actual pick up tabs, just after washing in gasoline and soapy brush with hot water.

I'll give it about an hour or two to dry completely, after that, gray primer and basic black automotive spray. There are still number decals to be put on sides of cab and tiny numbers on the sandbox as per Lehigh and New England practice.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Boiler and cab assembly fresh out of the oven:

Once again i've had to deal with old decals which tended to break when moved around too much; the sandbox decals especially proved to be difficult. Sprayed some clear laquer over the decals and to the oven it went:

I'm happy though that i even managed to put on tiny number on the number board below the headlight:

I was not going to try the side numbers on the headlight itself though.

Factory new #404 for comparison, shot by some one at Baldwin many decades ago:

I did not put in all the reverse lincage in at this point.
I still have to shave off a little more material from the brake shoes, since they are rubbing against the main driver tires. After that i'll mount the motor, stick in the gear box and hook up the wires into the motor. Almost there, tbc...

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

Boiler and cab assembly fresh out of the oven:View attachment 222105View attachment 222104Once again i've had to deal with old decals which tended to break when moved around too much; the sandbox decals especially proved to be difficult. Sprayed some clear laquer over the decals and to the oven it went:View attachment 222103
I'm happy though that i even managed to put on tiny number on the number board below the headlight:View attachment 222099
I was not going to try the side numbers on the headlight itself though.View attachment 222100Factory new #404 for comparison, shot by some one at Baldwin many decades ago:View attachment 222106View attachment 222101View attachment 222102
I did not put in all the reverse lincage in at this point.
I still have to shave off a little more material from the brake shoes, since they are rubbing against the main driver tires. After that i'll mount the motor, stick in the gear box and hook up the wires into the motor. Almost there, tbc...

Looks great! How big is that compared to a Pennsylvania I1s?

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Looks great! How big is that compared to a Pennsylvania I1s?

The F-1, as well as almost identical I-2 build at the same time for Western Maryland were larger and heavier than Pennsy I1 "Hippos". They (F-1 and I-2) had larger boiler and firebox which rivaled that of some articulateds from that time. They were taller by a foot, but length wise almost identical, not counting the tenders. Here is my comparison, the Pennsy I1 is a Bowser , so not completely accurate:
You can see the height difference on the first two shots.

The boiler on the Pennsy I1 is a proper size Cary boiler which i found on a train show. There are some comparisons on "Steam Locomotive.com" website available including pulling capacity. The Pennsy is right up there with the biggest and most powerful. What separated the Lehigh and New England machines from Pennsy and Western Maryland was the ability of the tender booster to add well over 10000 pounds in tractive effort beating the Pennsy and Western Maryland.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

The F-1, as well as almost identical I-2 build at the same time for Western Maryland were larger and heavier than Pennsy I1 "Hippos". They (F-1 and I-2) had larger boiler and firebox which rivaled that of some articulateds from that time. They were taller by a foot, but length wise almost identical, not counting the tenders. Here is my comparison, the Pennsy I1 is a Bowser , so not completely accurate:
You can see the height difference on the first two shots.View attachment 222190View attachment 222189View attachment 222188
View attachment 222191View attachment 222192View attachment 222193
The boiler on the Pennsy I1 is a proper size Cary boiler which i found on a train show. There are some comparisons on "Steam Locomotive.com" website available including pulling capacity. The Pennsy is right up there with the biggest and most powerful. What separated the Lehigh and New England machines from Pennsy and Western Maryland was the ability of the tender booster to add well over 10000 pounds in tractive effort beating the Pennsy and Western Maryland.

That's pretty interesting, thanks! I just acquired a Sunset Pennsy I1, so I was curious as to how close the PRR I1 and the L&NE F1 were in size, also because I might want to try building one myself some day. But, that would probably be a long time from now. This my I1. These are the seller's photos, since I'm in the process of detailing it right now, (crew, coal, etc.) I haven't taken any photos of my own yet.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

That's pretty interesting, thanks! I just acquired a Sunset Pennsy I1, so I was curious as to how close the PRR I1 and the L&NE F1 were in size, also because I might want to try building one myself some day. But, that would probably be a long time from now. This my I1. These are the seller's photos, since I'm in the process of detailing it right now, (crew, coal, etc.) I haven't taken any photos of my own yet.View attachment 222294View attachment 222295

Nice, Sunset from what I've read is the premium of the brass models. I was considering the Pennsy I1 as a starting point for the F-1. Now I'm glad i didn't go that route considering all the effort i put into building it. The F-1 has an offset #5 driver and it's pretty visible even on an H0 model. Interestingly the Pennsy I1 does have differences in its main drivers spaces, but those are minimal.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

Nice, Sunset from what I've read is the premium of the brass models. I was considering the Pennsy I1 as a starting point for the F-1. Now I'm glad i didn't go that route considering all the effort i put into building it. The F-1 has an offset #5 driver and it's pretty visible even on an H0 model. Interestingly the Pennsy I1 does have differences in its main drivers spaces, but those are minimal.

Thank you! I got a pretty good deal on it, too! It really is a very nice model, it even has a nice, big Mashima can motor in it. I haven't had it on the layout yet, but it runs really well on the test track on my workbench. That's why it makes it kind of surprising that it sat for a fairly long time on ebay, even the seller mentioned that when I first inquired about it. My best guess is that the listing somehow got buried amongst the other listings. I guess I was meant to get it.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Thank you! I got a pretty good deal on it, too! It really is a very nice model, it even has a nice, big Mashima can motor in it. I haven't had it on the layout yet, but it runs really well on the test track on my workbench. That's why it makes it kind of surprising that it sat for a fairly long time on ebay, even the seller mentioned that when I first inquired about it. My best guess is that the listing somehow got buried amongst the other listings. I guess I was meant to get it.

Everyone seems to have the Broadway Limited craze, that's probably why yours was sitting for a while. The Mashima can motor makes it so much better and i'd take that over any Broadway Limited stuff, at least you know it to be a dependable runner.