Kriegsloks building shops

[KriegslokBR52]

Little more progress on that gearbox, first i finished tapping the other two holes on the main body:

Today i just finished the bottom plate which had to have a crescent shaped bottom portion to clear the axle gear;

Since i still have plenty of time today, maybe i'll be able to do the worm gear mounts. Next weekend there's a train show in Hamburg, Pennsylvania centering on anthracite railroads and i was asked to bring the F-1 to the show. I'm hoping to make it run by the show, so a quick brunch now and back to work. All the screws on my gearbox are size 00-90, fillister heads on bottom plate and flat head on main gearbox body. They are still larger than what the NWSL had.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Ok, a major milestone has been achieved and basically the gearbox is done. I still have to find a few shims to put on both idler gears and basically wear the mechanism in a little bit before painting.

TBC...

 

[Kusojiji]

So that cover piece is hollow and the axle gear will be captured inside? This thing is built like a tank! Awesome!

 

[KriegslokBR52]

So that cover piece is hollow and the axle gear will be captured inside? This thing is built like a tank! Awesome!

Yes, the bottom side is where the gearbox goes over the axle gear and plate on the bottom protects the axle gear from trash getting in.

 

[Kusojiji]

Awesome! And your reservoir of grease?

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Awesome! And your reservoir of grease?

No, there will be no grease there. I use Labelle oil for the gears.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Part 11:

Decapod F-1 L&NE is running. It was a long tedious project just getting the gearbox right in this thing. The short film is with another NWSL gearbox, much older than the one that took a crap. This one eventually heated up to the point of creating a gap large enough between the worm gear and the top idler; stripping the idler. I got back at my own brass gearbox and was able to source another idler from my past unfinished project, this one is brass. I stucked the brass idler in my brass gearbox and screwed everything together. The locomotive is running fine, but will need to be taken apart one more time after break in period; cleaned, re-lubricated and put back together again...Now i'll have to tackle the tender, this gem is making short circuits with both trucks.

 

[Kusojiji]

Awesome work! Very impressive! She runs and sounds good.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

Part 11:

Decapod F-1 L&NE is running. It was a long tedious project just getting the gearbox right in this thing. The short film is with another NWSL gearbox, much older than the one that took a crap. This one eventually heated up to the point of creating a gap large enough between the worm gear and the top idler; stripping the idler. I got back at my own brass gearbox and was able to source another idler from my past unfinished project, this one is brass. I stucked the brass idler in my brass gearbox and screwed everything together. The locomotive is running fine, but will need to be taken apart one more time after break in period; cleaned, re-lubricated and put back together again...Now i'll have to tackle the tender, this gem is making short circuits with both trucks.View attachment 239681View attachment 239682View attachment 239683View attachment 239684

Excellent! Glad it's up and running. I've had that problem with tender trucks before, usually it's the flanges hitting the underside.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Excellent! Glad it's up and running. I've had that problem with tender trucks before, usually it's the flanges hitting the underside.

Thanks for the hint, looks like another project.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

Thanks for the hint, looks like another project.

Happy to help! Something that helps insulate an area that may be causing a short is clear nail polish. It works very well in areas where there is an intermittent short that cannot be adjusted.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

More progress on the F-1 and i was able to locate trouble spots on the tender itself:

I have actually pulled a freight train with it earlier, but the locomotive definitely needs lead weight added. My home built gearbox also seems to be working fine.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

More progress on the F-1 and i was able to locate trouble spots on the tender itself:

I have actually pulled a freight train with it earlier, but the locomotive definitely needs lead weight added. My home built gearbox also seems to be working fine.

Glad to see that you got it up and running, looks and sounds great!

 

[Kusojiji]

Well done! I never seen a booster on a tender before. Neat!

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Well done! I never seen a booster on a tender before. Neat!

Yes, this and the fact that it is a 2-10-0 (my possibly favorite wheel arrangement) were among others, my reasons for building this monster. Normally tender boosters were seen on yard engines to help them move heavy consist in switching. But some railroads like L&NE and i think Lehigh Valley used them on road power to help get heavy trains over severe grades.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Not much going on the building front. There's a large train show coming up this weekend in Timonium, Maryland and i'm planning to be there. Got to find a quality airbrush to continue painting and the F-1 needs a light weathering. Decided to see why my 2-6-2 prairie would not run. I took the thing apart and it was probably bad allingnment of the worm gear to main axle gear. While at it i also cleaned the cylinders and the main frame for painting, as the old paint was chipping from decades of handling;

I might do some touch up on the locomotive body itself and have to get rid of that 45 on the cab sides. Tender will also need to be repainted and the locomotive will get proper Santa Fe decals, since it very closely resembles class 1000 on Santa Fe.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Just a little more done to that 2-6-2 today; shot the main frame and cylinder block with rattle can automotive black in the morning just before stepping out for work. Right now i just finished drilling four holes with a mini drill bit in preparation for working suspension on #1 and 3 driving axles:

That 00-90 fillister head screw is also a new addition after drilling out and tapping the hole for it.

There just was no other way to mount the future springs for the #1 axle since the valve gear rack on this thing is cast white metal.

Going to sleep. Tomorrow a two hour ride in the morning to Timonium train show.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Cleaning the numbers and paint off with acetone from the cab. New injector valve on the engineer side since that was missing. Masking:

And painting:

I'll let it cure until tomorrow before placing decals on.

 

[KriegslokBR52]

Work is continuing on the 2-6-2 since the morning. I have installed spring suspension on #1 and 3 axles:

On the rear axle the spring is just visible between the motor and the wheel flange. I might have to redo the #1 axle spring since the vertical piece s came out just a little too short for good spring action, but i'll run this thing first to see if it actually needs improvement. Right now work is continuing on the tender, the thing is so basic, it doesn't even have a main reflector.

For some of the detail i'm using drawings from January 1986 issue of Model Railroader:

This is a later model from 1050 class, but they were very similar.

 

[Kusojiji]

How's the suspension work? I seen the holes you punched near the axle ends. Are you just sending pins through with the spring on top?