Jerome's Switcher Roster

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No idea. The person who sighted it didn't know, he just saw it. The rest of the people on Loconotes are quite sure either but I think there are people looking into it.
 


OK, the start of a new project, 5 Bachmann 44 tonners.

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And the near completion of an old project, 3 RPP CF7's. Still need to replace one side handrail on #12 and then fit coupler pockets and install the glass to all of them.

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OK, so it's probably not a big deal to a lot of you, but to me, it was a big step forward!!!!

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This is the very first decoder that I have installed myself!! And the best part of it is, it worked the first time!!! I give Mark G. a lot of the credit for teaching me soldering and wiring etc. I have made the LED headlights for both ends, I just need to install them and then clean up all of that extra wiring.
 
good job!!

that extra wiring IS the tricky part... I had to re-do my first install because there was too much extra wire, and I could not keep it out of the drive train...
 
Well done Jerome!

Is the black insulation tape or heathshrink tubing you've not yet shrunk? I thoroughly recommend heatshrink tubing if you're not familiar with it.

Paul
 
I recently wired a Digitrax DH123 into an Athearn BB SW1000/1500 and the hard part is definitely getting the wires to stay out of the drive shafts and off the flywheels and have room for the decoder. Once you add the wiring for the lights you'll have some real fun fitting the shell on again.

I've also found that the wiring harness that the DH123AT, made specifically for Athearn BBs, has wires that are much too long for most diesels, so I prefer the DH123D and just solder it up myself after cutting the wires to the proper length.

Once you've wired up a few of these it becomes quite addictive. I'm still trying to come up with better ways to run the wiring to keep it as neat as possible. Let us know how it goes for you.
 
pantoine said:
Well done Jerome!

Is the black insulation tape or heathshrink tubing you've not yet shrunk? I thoroughly recommend heatshrink tubing if you're not familiar with it.

Paul
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Paul, it's heat shrink that I haven't shrunk yet. Waiting until everything is installed and working properly.
 


Lightstorm said:
I recently wired a Digitrax DH123 into an Athearn BB SW1000/1500 and the hard part is definitely getting the wires to stay out of the drive shafts and off the flywheels and have room for the decoder. Once you add the wiring for the lights you'll have some real fun fitting the shell on again.

I've also found that the wiring harness that the DH123AT, made specifically for Athearn BBs, has wires that are much too long for most diesels, so I prefer the DH123D and just solder it up myself after cutting the wires to the proper length.

Once you've wired up a few of these it becomes quite addictive. I'm still trying to come up with better ways to run the wiring to keep it as neat as possible. Let us know how it goes for you.
Click to expand...

Brian, this is the first Digitrax decoder for me. Mark installed all NCE on my other units. I'm using the ones he's done for me in the past as a guide. Sure helps to copy someone that knows what he's doing work.
 
Lightstorm said:
I recently wired a Digitrax DH123 into an Athearn BB SW1000/1500 and the hard part is definitely getting the wires to stay out of the drive shafts and off the flywheels and have room for the decoder. Once you add the wiring for the lights you'll have some real fun fitting the shell on again.

I've also found that the wiring harness that the DH123AT, made specifically for Athearn BBs, has wires that are much too long for most diesels, so I prefer the DH123D and just solder it up myself after cutting the wires to the proper length.

Once you've wired up a few of these it becomes quite addictive. I'm still trying to come up with better ways to run the wiring to keep it as neat as possible. Let us know how it goes for you.
Click to expand...

If you do it the right way, you can twist the wires slightly to bundle them up.

When I use the Athearn harness, I generally add small blobs of solder between the harness connections and the part being connected to so that if the parts corrode, the solder bridge will still carry the power. The solder bridge also helps to keep the connections secure.

Jerome, for the heat shrink tubing, it's a little tricky to shrink it. You can use the heat of the soldering iron to shrink it, but if your iron isn't hot enough to heat the air around it to heat the tubing, then it might not work (I've had an iron that did that). If you touch the tubing with your iron you might melt it.

Sometimes I use a hair dryer on high to shrink the tubing. It saves a lot of arm strain from holding the iron in one place for too long.
 
wheeler1963 said:
OK, finished up Carl's Canadian Pacific RTR SW1500 tonight. It's headed back to Iowa for service on his line.

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Jerome,

Just realized that I have the same engine. Saying how mines a BB and needs a few touchups, ill call mine the ugly twin sister to yours/Carls :D

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Do you mind explaining how you paint wheels rust color? More specifically, what colors and is it with a regular paint brush?

Thanks!
 
Littlefoot14 said:
Jerome,


Do you mind explaining how you paint wheels rust color? More specifically, what colors and is it with a regular paint brush?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

That's an easy one. Floquil's rail brown with a little black added to darken it a bit. If I'm only doing one set of wheels, I'll brush it on. If I have a bunch to do I airbrush it on. And always a coat of dull-coat afterwards.
 
Thanks Jerome, one more question. Is there any particular method to the brush stroke? I was thinking circular motion, or does it not matter because the truck sideframe will hide the brushstrokes?
 
I kinda lay it on thick, then hang the wheel set upright until the one side is dry. You'll never see brush strokes that way. Before you shake up the paint, pour off a bit of the thinner to make it thicker.
 
I paint it straight on. Never masked a wheel yet. anything that gets on the tread gets cleaned off with the KayDee wheel cleaner.
 
OK, with much patience, assistance and guidance from Mark G. (THANK YOU) I've got working headlights both front and back now in EJ&E unit #519.

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What next Jerome?

Sound??:confused:;)

Here's my current project, one of 3 Proto GP9's with chopped noses. Sound chassis #1 is done. I would have used micro Tsunamis, but I'm fearful of the heat related failures they have been accused of, so I did a little cutting on the weight, and installed a full sized Tsunami with a TTX 24mm oval speaker. It may be small, but it fits andsounds great!

Yeah, there is a bit more wiring, but thats the price you pay I guess!
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