Jerome's Switcher Roster

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Since I model Pan Am Railways, and Pan Am Railways is leasing New Brunswick Southern #3703 for use on the Woodland Branch up in Maine, maybe I should get one :D

http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1843117
http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1539684
(Yes, those are buckets covering the stacks :D)

It looks like the hood-mounted "handrail" (long grab) had been removed, but the brackets are still in place. The 2 windows to the long hood have been plated over. It also looks like the handrails were fabricated for the unit since the end handrails have an Alco-like look to them and the part that attaches to the cab has an odd angle to it. There are also grabs on the side of the hood (looks like something GE would do)

Other than that, the parts for it (horn, sinclair antenna, decals and paint) are pretty straightforward.

What do you think? :D
 
Those brackets are also the lift rings for the hood. The long "handrail" that would have been original on it would go through a small hole in the bottom of it. Making it would be an easy task but then there is the decals, decals, decals. Stops me from making 50% of engines I'd like too.
 


Jerome,

Do you have any suggestions for a beginner in the custom paint world? I bought an airbrush a couple nights ago and i think im going to start on a couple of my fantasy units.

Thanks
Matt
 
Littlefoot14 said:
Jerome,

Do you have any suggestions for a beginner in the custom paint world? I bought an airbrush a couple nights ago and i think im going to start on a couple of my fantasy units.

Thanks
Matt
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like anything start on flat sheets and practice. masking painting prep ext. keep the gun clean
 
Drew and Roy, thanks for the help, cant wait to try. One more question, what are the types of paint that dont go in an airbrush?

Thanks again
 
you can air brush anything just need to make sure you run the right cleaner threw it after. for you start with water based stuff makes clean up easy
 


Irongrave said:
you can air brush anything just need to make sure you run the right cleaner threw it after. for you start with water based stuff makes clean up easy
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After you have successfully airbrushed something, don't stand back and enjoy it too long!;) Clean the thing right away!!:eek:
Water based paint can be as tough as solvent based paint once they dry! :eek:
However, there is hope. When it happens to me (and it does) I usually shoot carb cleaner (OUTSIDE, NOT INDOORS!!) up the siphon tube of my airbrush and it clears it out very quickly. Berkible 2+2 is the brand I use, be careful though. Its the strongest stuff you can get, it will melt plastic, discolor siding, or kill any plant life it contacts. (Don't ask me how I know this :rolleyes:)
I usually clean my airbrush in the mulched area behind the garage. :)

Also while I think about it, go to a local drug store and get yourself a box of cheap latex gloves. 2 reasons. After prep and cleaning, you NEVER want to touch a model with your bare hands. Skin oil can ruin a paint job, and #2, you don't want paint on your hands, for obvious reasons.;)
 
Littlefoot14 said:
Jerome,

Do you have any suggestions for a beginner in the custom paint world? I bought an airbrush a couple nights ago and i think im going to start on a couple of my fantasy units.

Thanks
Matt
Click to expand...

Matt, you got some sound advice from everyone here. ;) Start on an old boxcar, test your paint, test your skills, test your thinner, test everything on something old first. Then once your comfortable, try it on one of your fantasy units.
 
wheeler1963 said:
OK, with much patience, assistance and guidance from Mark G. (THANK YOU) I've got working headlights both front and back now in EJ&E unit #519.

100_1576.jpg


100_1577.jpg
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Jerome I have been out of the loop for awhile and I have missed this thread but this is exactly what I am looking for. You got these LEDS off EBay, do you have a link. You said they are surface mount but they look like they fit right into the holes on the shell and are flush with the outside surface. I would really like to change my bulbs for LEDs also.
 
Thanks for the link Jerome; what value resistor are you using for these? And it seems like a square peg in a round hole. What did you fill the cylindrical hole with that the bulb uses to occupy? Is that clear rod or something? It looks great by the way.

View attachment 25169
 
wheeler1963 said:
Those are the stock Athearn lenses in the hole. Then I just glued the LED's in place with some clear glue. Once that was dried, painted over everything inside with some black paint.
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Ah... that was the part that was confusing me. On the RTR version there are no lenses and the bulb is what becomes flush with the outside edge of the shell. I could easily get the LED's on the inside of the shell but I would need some lenses to fill in the holes to make it look right on the outside.
 
hmm, maybe i can actually do a install myself someday. I too would have the issue of no headlight lenses. Could you use mv lenses in the holes?
 


Steve, the MV products lenses have a metal backing on them. I've heard of people drilling a hole in but, but I've never seen the outcome.
 
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