How do I ballast

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santafewillie

Same Ol' Buzzard
There have been some recent threads and a question in the Coffee Shop regarding ballasting of track. This is how I do HO scale ballasting. I'm not saying that this is the only way, or the best way; but it is what has worked well for me over the years. This should work for N scale as well. I use cork roadbed and Atlas code 100 flex track.
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After getting the track in place, I test it for 2-3 months before ballasting. I weather it by using a rattle can of a light earth color and paint everything in 2' swaths. I immediately wipe off the top of the rail with a paper towel, as that reduces the cleaning required later. I also use Woodland Scenics medium gray ballast, light gray for main lines and gray blend for passing sidings in keeping with ATSF practices. I know that medium actually scales out a bit large, but it looks better to me than small. Before ballasting, I paint random ties with various shades of gray and brown paint to represent tie replacement.
The first step is to trim the strip from the shoulder of the roadbed. I always glue the roadbed so this strip is toward the aisle, thus making trimming easier.
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I begin with pouring ballast from a small condiment cup (from take-out meals) down the center of the track.
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I then use a 3/4" brush to even it out.
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I don't mind if I leave a few stray pieces on top of a tie, as my field observation indicates that the real railroad is a bit messy as well.
Then I pour alongside the shoulder.
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Again using the paintbrush, I move it into position.
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When both sides are finished, I have something that looks like this.
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Then I mist it with "wet water", a mixture of 60% water and 40% isopropyl alcohol. I don't always get the proportions exact but it doesn't seem to matter unless you are way off. This should be a thorough soaking.
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At this point I dribble on the glue. I use an old Elmer's White Glue bottle with a mixture of 60% water, 40% White Glue and a few drops of Dawn dish detergent. It's important to use the stuff labeled White Glue and not the stuff labeled "School Glue" which is much more diluted.
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Again I give it a good soaking. If the glue mixture is puddling up, then you didn't soak it enough with the IPA/water mixture.
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The next step is to dab a dry paper towel on top of the ties to remove excess glue mixture.
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When done, it should look something like this.
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Of course, special care must be given to switches and any other complicated trackwork.
This takes some practice but overall it is easy, at least for me. I have ballasted over 1000' of rail on this layout, but I am not finished yet.
I think that I covered everything, but if I missed something, please ask.
Good luck.
 


Thank you Willie! I tried something similar, but it never looks as smooth. I'll keep practicing a bit before I start gluing.
 
Willie, your method looks great!

I do mine a little different, but am going to adopt the rattle can method for painting track. In the past, used the rusty rail pen by Woodland Scenics, it is very slow.

I also like to use a little bottle with a nozzle to apply ballast carefully to a wetted track bed.

Sometimes I will apply it to a dry bed as you did, using the brush. However, I like to use Scenic Cement and an eye dropper for adhesion.

I like to experiment and try different things.

Thanks for sharing your method!

Dave LASM
 
Got a better result on some of my re-ballasting and cleanup. It had always been the sides more than between the rails. I'll try to get some pictures, but I can see some improvement in the start of the redo portion.
 
Thanks Willie, that was really helpful. I admire your patience in laying track and holding off ballasting it for so long!

I got up this morning and discovered that patches of my ballast from yesterday had not adhered (WS light grey small, I'm in N gauge) so I had to redo it. This time I was really thorough about saturating the ballast. Next time I will try applying wet water first and see if that helps, although it certainly looked like the cement was soaking in.

I got a Bachmann ballast spreader and it takes care of between the tracks perfectly, but doesn't deposit enough on the shoulders so that has been supplemented by hand and a foam brush, which I found works really well, especially for shaping the shoulders. (I suspect it would work fine if somebody was not using cork or foam under their tracks.) I also like to sprinkle in some grass (blended green) to suggest neglect.

One thing that is vexing me is that the cement seems to cause the ballast to move a lot, messing up my nice neat shoulders and making little craters :-( I haven't found any way to prevent that, and it may just be inevitable with fine ballast.

I am still on the fence about weathering. I got a WS pen and it worked well enough for me, but I don't have a huge layout (32"x64"). I'm tempted to try with my new airbrush a little spray of earth brown, which will also darken the ballast. One challenge is that overspray annoys my tidy mind but I have to get over that. I can experiment in the area that is eventually going to become a tunnel (the black patch in the picture).

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Thanks Willie!
I use pretty much the same method as well, and yeah my water/glue mixtures are rarely exactly the same.

One thing I’ve added to my routine is to lay a small bead of straight glue along the corks bottom edge to help hold the rock on the slope from sliding outward on the layout base.
 
Great tutorial will try am new here just saying *HELLO* Haven't done ballast yet as am still converting 12X8 L shaped HO layout to DCC but in using WS foam track bed the one thing I've found is try the "N" scale foam under HO track?

Much lower/narrower track profile anticipate using much less ballast. Definitely still a work in progress . .
 

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