HO Car Derailments

[BNTorsney]

Possible to remove the tt pit and cut away 1/16-1/8 of the pit supporting outer wall?

The turn-table is lying flat on the plywood, not just its outer wall.

 

[Old Jedi]

I have used the Atlas turn-table on two difference layouts. On the first one I used "cork" roadbed; the hight of the roadbed and turntable was the same.
On my present layout I used the gray sponge roadbed. With this roadbed the Atlas turn-table sits approximate between 1/16 to 1/8 inch higher than the sponge road-bed.
I would be willing to purchase another turn-table if the height was less. Any ideas how to correct this problem, would be appreciated.

How about drawing around the turntable, and the routing out the area with a router about 1/8" deep?

 

[BNTorsney]

NEW Rail-Yard

How about drawing around the turntable, and the routing out the area with a router about 1/8" deep?

I had initially thought of that but there isn't enough room for the jig. What I decided to do is rip out the turn-table and make a working rail-yard out of that area. I was lucky, my original design is close to what I need, so there isn't too much to rip apart.
I want to develop a "Working Yard," one where I can make up trains, while the East/West double main lines are running. In the future, I will replace the turntable in another area of the layout, where I intend to build another yard for engine maintenance.

 

[BNTorsney]

Upgrading DCC

I am very happy with my 10 year old MRC Command 2000 DCC controller. One drawback is it can't control the sounds of my new Athearn Genesis F45 locomotive. Does anyone know if the amber light above the cab on this engine is suppose to work? The separate sound controller that came with the locomotive is only for DC tracks. When I called MRC, I was told it wouldn't work with my older DCC system.
Does anyone know of a controller just for the sounds; one that I could use with my present system?
If I have to upgrade to get this ability, I'm willing. I would like to know what most others are using and if "wireless" is a reliable as "wired?"

 

[UP2CSX]

You need one of these: http://qsisolutions.com/products/techinfo/revolution/q-revo_install_athearn_fp45.html. The QSI motor control/sound decoder should work with any DCC system. I'm a little confused as to what you have in the engine now. It sounds like this must be an older F45 with the DC sound controller before Athearn went with MRC for sound and DCC. Your MRC 2000 should have no problem controlling the sounds and lighting effects with the QSI decoder. If I remember correctly, the amber beacon was a dummy on some of these locomotives but later ones had a working beacon. You can use a flashing LED and core into the beacon from the bottom. You can then wire the beacon to the QSI detector and make it work.

 

[BNTorsney]

Brand New Locomotive

You need one of these: http://qsisolutions.com/products/techinfo/revolution/q-revo_install_athearn_fp45.html. The QSI motor control/sound decoder should work with any DCC system. I'm a little confused as to what you have in the engine now. It sounds like this must be an older F45 with the DC sound controller before Athearn went with MRC for sound and DCC. Your MRC 2000 should have no problem controlling the sounds and lighting effects with the QSI decoder. If I remember correctly, the amber beacon was a dummy on some of these locomotives but later ones had a working beacon. You can use a flashing LED and core into the beacon from the bottom. You can then wire the beacon to the QSI detector and make it work.

According to MRC, my Command 2000 can't control ANY sounds. The engine is the latest, it's only a week old. There are some issues with it that I haven't been able to correct with my new MRC Prodigy. Even installing the correct "data" in the "CV" didn't help. I'm returning the engine to the factory for repairs. Biased on my experience with this "GENESIS" line, all my older Kato and Atlas engines will be sold. Do you know any good Online sites for used model railroading equipment?
That Athearn SW1500 I sold on Ebay. The problem is Ebay and Paypal took a whopping 66% in fees and misc listing charges; I canceled both accounts!!

 

[BNTorsney]

Mrc

MRC is quickly going to the top of my "do not buy" list. After ordered their Prodigy, Squared Two new DCC system, I found more problems with it in one day than in the 10 years I've owned the Command 2000.
All loco's lights are ALWAYS going out and now I loose control of loco's and have to reset the system. MRC's trouble shooting says "dirty-tracks," well the same dirty tracks work perfectly with the Command 2000! It's gotten so bad, I've installed a switch that allows me to switch between the two systems.
I was wondering if the OLD "ADC310" decoders I installed MANY years ago could be the problem?

 

[AyTrane]

Are your tracks soldered? Are the switch frogs exposed? I had been having the same problem, but I covered the frogs with clear nail polish, and made sure all my solder joints were good; haven't had a problem since. A short in the system will cause it to reset. As for the light issue, not sure what the problem may be.

 

[BNTorsney]

Are your tracks soldered? Are the switch frogs exposed? I had been having the same problem, but I covered the frogs with clear nail polish, and made sure all my solder joints were good; haven't had a problem since. A short in the system will cause it to reset. As for the light issue, not sure what the problem may be.

My tracks are soldered yet, if it's necessary I will do it. My new Athearn Genesis is at the factory, when I get back if I have the same problems with it, I will start soldering. If not, then it might be the old style decoder. I have a new style decoder on order for a locomotive, when I install it, if that stops the problem I guess I'll have to replace the others.
I'm in the process of upgrading all my turn-outs to the Tortoise machine. In the process, I'm powering all the frogs. What does the clear nail polish on the frogs accomplish? My new system doesn't reset itself, when a locomotive stops responding, I reset it manually, it the only way to get it to run again.

 

[BNTorsney]

Proto 2000 gear problems

The gears on the front truck of my original Life-Like Proto 2000 GP18 are broken. From what I understand this is a common problem that can be repaired with Athearn gears; does anyone have the Athearn part number?

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

The gears( set of six for $2.25) can be ordered from Horizon Hobbies. Here's the item #. ATH60024

See them here: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH60024

 

[BNTorsney]

The gears( set of six for $2.25) can be ordered from Horizon Hobbies. Here's the item #. ATH60024

See them here: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH60024

Thank you, just what the doctor ordered.

 

[BNTorsney]

Track Cleaning Freight Car

I had asked previously about track cleaning products in this thread, without getting any hits on personal usage. With this, I tried the least expensive first, I ordered a track cleaning freight car offered by Walthers. The results with this one car were so good, I ordered another and two extra cleaning pads.
With my Atlas RS-11, two cars were too heavy for the RS-3, I pull both cars around the track every three or four days.
Prior to this track cleaning method, the loco's headlight running on my new Prodigy Advanced Squared 2 system, were always going out; in addition, every once and a while the Prodigy system would "forget" the address of one loco or another. Since I started cleaning the tracks with these two freight cars, I haven't had that problem once.

 

[BNTorsney]

Did Something Wrong

The gears on the front truck of my original Life-Like Proto 2000 GP18 are broken. From what I understand this is a common problem that can be repaired with Athearn gears; does anyone have the Athearn part number?

I finally received my replacement gears and installed them. I obviously put something back wrong, because now both truck's electrical pick-ups are going to the same rail?
Any advise on how to correct this would be appreciated.

 

[BNTorsney]

Answer My Own Question

I finally received my replacement gears and installed them. I obviously put something back wrong, because now both truck's electrical pick-ups are going to the same rail?
Any advise on how to correct this would be appreciated.

The error was mine for not noting the electrical connections on this engine before taking it apart. In the photo you see the two electrical connections for the wheel pick-ups (silver tabs), they both go to the same rail; the other track rail goes to the locomotive's frame. I had the DCC decoder input going to both tabs, rerouting one wire to the locomotive frame solved my problem. Now that I know this, before I put it all back together I will solder the two electrical pick-ups (silver tabs) together with a wire. In this way, 4 wheels will pick-up half of the electrical DCC signal instead of two; should make for a smoother running engine.

 

[Jon NFL]

Hi, BNT -
I'm not a DCC guru and my memory if fading :[ but I seem to remember threads talking about frames need to be isolated from pickups. Before you solder things back together, you might want to wait for a reply or two to confirm your actions. Replacing a blown decoder can sure mess up one's day.
good luck,
Jon

 

[BNTorsney]

Better Quality Usually Isolate the Frame

Hi, BNT -
I'm not a DCC guru and my memory if fading :[ but I seem to remember threads talking about frames need to be isolated from pickups. Before you solder things back together, you might want to wait for a reply or two to confirm your actions. Replacing a blown decoder can sure mess up one's day.
good luck,
Jon

According to my Digital Voltmeter the frame is hot, this is how I located the problem. When I put one of the DCC decoder's input to ground the engine runs with the decoder installed with no problems. Cheap locomotives do it this way, the better more expensive ones isolate the frame.
Of all the locomotives I've owned this Proto 2000 is the biggest disappointment. This combined with Walther's wanting me to send back the broken axle gears for warranty replacement, translates to no more Proto locotomotives for me; if I had done that the return postage would have been about 3 or four times the cost of the gears.
I also learned another valuable lesson, when you return merchandise to any store ALWAYS pay the extra for tracking information. Recently I had A LOT of merchandise to return and I didn't want to pay the extra money for the tracking numbers. Of all my returns, MyAtomic.com A N D Model Rectifier Corporation both mysteriously have no record of my package! Live and Learn!!
When is the last time anybody had a piece of mail disappear? I would bet my bottom dollar both of these companies are just dishonest.

 

[kbkchooch]

This combined with Walther's wanting me to send back the broken axle gears for warranty replacement, translates to no more Proto locotomotives for me; if I had done that the return postage would have been about 3 or four times the cost of the gears.

I don't even both with Walthers anymore. My LHS sells me a six pack of the Athearn gears for 2 bucks. 2 packages are enough to regear 3 geeps. Especially since P2K replacement gears are failing on me now. The Athearn gears fit perfectly, and I know I will never replace them again!

 

[BNTorsney]

"The Keyboard is Mightier Than The Sword!"

...........................are just dishonest.[/QUOTE]
This is an email I sent to one of the two companies that lost one of my 'Returns:"

Since I placed order #199785, I have not received my credit card REFUND for
the returned caboose (RMA1400); this FACT has cost you $180.21 in new orders
since order #199785. Both of these websites have NO problem meeting your
lower advertised price.
In addition, I get orders shipped from the states of Washington and
California, in less time that it takes you to get the product to the
shipper.
Sincerely,
BNTorsney


This is the reply I received today!:

We have completed our search for your return and are pleased to inform you
that it has been located. Our sincere apologies for the delay in
processing your refund. Please let us know if we can be of further
assistance.

Thank You!

Please visit our Web Store for all your hobby needs!

www.myatomic.com

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

The Athearn gears fit perfectly, and I know I will never replace them again!

Darn right! I have Athearn's that I bought over 20 years ago that are still running with the ORIGINAL gears. Can't say that for my P2K's. Most of them have been regeared with Athearn gears. Some of the most dependable locos I have are over 30 years old and one of those is a Bachmann. Go figure. Just goes to show that todays workmanship isn't what it was back then. BTW, two of my old timers are Atlas GP40's. Most of my forty-six locos are Athearn's if that tells you anything. The others are a scattering of P2K's, Atlas, Bachmann, Mehano, MDC and Kato.

My oldest Bachmann: