HO Car Derailments

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Uneven corner fix

The uneven corner was really a low spot on the outer track. It was the middle of three supports that was too low. The first two photos show how the plywood sprung UPWARD after removing the screws. I then installed two shims, one on the middle and third support. The approximate 1/8 inch on the third support, eliminated the derailing of the SD40 on the "Reverse Track" turnout. The 1/4 inch improvement on the middle support, relieved the derailing on the corner. In the forth photo, the SD40 is pulling the three freight cars, with the extra steel weight aboard each car, over the "previous" troubled corner. When I get the scale, I will know how much extra that steel weighs and adjust it, to give the car a combined weight of 3.75 ounces.
 
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on my layout I have a wood road bed used for the return loop from the upper mainline back to the lower mainline. It was working great untill the wood started to warp. I had to tweak the wood and shim the outer rails in a few spots to stop the 6 axel diesels from derailing.. It in the bacement so temp changes are seen from summer to winter.

Trent
 
Also keep in mind, you don't want to over weigh your cars as this can put too much strain on you locos with longer trains. When you get all your cars set up in a train, pull them by hand and see how much resistance there is.

It looks like you got a nice scale for yourself. Looks like it has a lid too!
 
More power!

AyTrane said:
Also keep in mind, you don't want to over weigh your cars as this can put too much strain on you locos with longer trains. When you get all your cars set up in a train, pull them by hand and see how much resistance there is.

It looks like you got a nice scale for yourself. Looks like it has a lid too!
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That is a PERFECT excuse, to convince my better half, that I need new, bigger and more powerful engines! In the attached photo, this was the reason for needing TWO GP35's!!
 
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Ho track cleaning cars

I've been looking at Model Railroader magazine for the first time in a long time. There are several "track cleaning car" products for HO gauge, does anyone have any experience with any? Can anyone recommend one that works?
 


Experience

UP2CSX said:
Here's a link to the CMC car: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/226-CMXHO. As you'll see, it's really quite expensive. There's a lot cheaper alternative that will attach to the bottom of any Athearn 40' box car at http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/326-3053. Also, do a search here for "gleam" for a method to clean tracks that only requires you to give them a quick going over a few times a year.
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Do you have any experience with this "GLEAM" product? I found this on Ebay, is it what you are talking about?


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gleam-Super-B...temQQimsxZ20090101?IMSfp=TL090101115001r13170

The price isn't the sticking point, whether it works or not is what I'm interested in.
 
GLEAM in the MR context is not a product but more of a process that involves the use of metal polish. First clean your track as you normally would. Now sand the track with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (moving in the direction of the rails, not across) then sand again with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Now you need a piece of stainless steel that is big enough to span both rails. Any piece of stainless steel will do. I use a piece I cut from the handle of a spoon. Others have used stainless steel washers. Press down on the stainless steel as you move it back and forth on the rails going in the direction of the rails (not across). This burnishes the rails and closes up any gouges and/or fissures where dirt could accumulate. Now come the metal polish. I use Blue Magic cream metal polish which can be found in any good auto parts store. Apply some to a piece of cork roadbed material or piece of bulletin board cork the use the cork to apply the polish to the railheads going in the direction of the rails (not across), Do all the track. Allow the polish to dry. Make sure you have plenty of cork on hand. Use a clean piece of cork to buff the polish off an 18" length of track until it shines. Now turn the cork over and do another 18" length then get a new piece of cork and repeat on the next 18" length. You will be amazed at how much black crud comes off of what you thought was clean track. Do this until all the track is done. Vacuum up any debris then wipe the track with a clean dry cloth.
 
Thank you!

............with a clean dry cloth.[/QUOTE]
Thank you, I now know EXACTLY what "gleam" means. All I have to say is that some people are more into this hobby than others!
If I can't find anyone that states, "I own this product and it works GREAT!" I will stick with my present track cleaning method.
 
Deja Vu

What I can't understand is why a train runs without derailing for a long time, then all of a sudden, starts all over again?
When my SD40 started derailing AGAIN at the "reverse track" turnout, I was shocked.
After some fact searching, I found the front axle, of the front truck, was derailed. It ran the entire layout without derailing off the track, UNTIL it came to that particular turnout.
With my previous experience leading the way, I found another TWO low spots; a shim and brace and we are back in business!
The last photo is of my train-yard. It shows all my GOOD (Kato & Atlas) engines ready to do battle with the grades on this layout.
The second from the rear, hard to see, is an Atlas RS-11, Burlington Northern, No. 7094 diesel. Christmas 1981, I told my wife I wanted a "GOOD" quality engine to run around the tree, I was tired of the cheap ones quitting. She gave me that engine, which started it all; it only took me TWENTY-SEVEN years to finally get the "bug" to finish what I started back then!!
 
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It seems as if there's always some little thing that needs adjusting, especially with a new layout. Everything needs to settle in place, get shimmed up, and then things will usually run well for a long time until the second cycle starts. :) At least you're dealing with all the problems before you have scenery down, which is a big help.
 
Turnout switch machine update

I now have the layout running without any derailment for NOW. The only time I suffer a derailment is attributed to "operator error," I forget to throw a turnout switch. This bring me to my next question, upgrading the Atlas standard electric switch machine, to something with more. I want to power the frog, have traffic lights at the turnout and panel indicators at the switch location. If no one has a better suggestion, I will probably go with Atlas's 150-66 under table deluxe switch machine. I want to get away from the switch controls in the photo.
 
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Your turnout control can be done with double pole double throw slide switches. The little black plastic nub that you slide the switch with can be drilled to accept hard wire that attaches to the turnout throw tie. the slide switch is installed in the surface of your layout right next to or close to the turn out. This provides you with power routing for the frog and signal control, plus its easy to move the turnout with just a stab of your finger instead of trying get your finger nail under the turnout throw. If you have DCC, you are following your train around the layout anyways and work the turnouts.
 


On another note. Weights can get expensive if you have a large fleet of rolling stock. I have used fishing lead weights. I have a piece of 1" X 4" pine with a slot down the middle made with a router. I melt the fishing weights down with a propane torch in the bottom part of a cut off Pepsi can. I pour the lead into the wood slot, let it cool and I have weights that I can cut with a wire cutter. I use Goop to install them in the rolling stock.
 
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