HELP!! Rolling stock problem caught on video

[csxgandn]

Well, between work and the snow storm in my area on Sat. I never got to the train store. However, for the time being, weight fixes the problem. I'm concerned that the weight added to keep the cars from coming off the rails may be forcing something somewhere and doing some kind of damage. Until I can confirm the cars are weighted accurately and/or replace couplers I will simply not put them directly behind that locomotive.

I had planned on changing all couplers on cars and locos to Kadee at some point anyway but if I start to do that now I am not sure which type I'll go with. I understand there are two very popular types that did not exist when I was a kid called "Wisker". One is more prototypical in size than the other if I'm not mistaken.

While realism is of importance to me I'm walking a line with things like curves and grades due to space limitations (doing the best I can). As for couplers...prototypical would be great but my railroad is being built for operations so reliable couplers are even more important.

I'm curious to know about all of your experiences with different types of Kadees.

Again, I very much appreciate the help you guys offer here and I'll let you know what new thing about the hobby I've learned when I am able to get to the bottom of it .

Thanks
Paul

 

[montanan]

The closer to scale would be the Kadee 158. It is a wicker coupler. I have been replacing any plastic couplers with them along with replacing the #5 Kadees if I have to do any maintenance on cars. I have no problems using them with the #5's. I do use magnets for uncoupling. If you want, I can post a photo showing the difference in the size.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

The core of the issue is the S curve ya have going there. Shorter cars and locos would negotiate it easier. If ya look at the mechanics of the couplers you will see that they are pressing hard against each other as the loco is still making a left turn while the car is going through the right turn.

 

[montanan]

Paul - Here is a photo of a #158, on the left and a #5 on the right. There is a slight difference in the height of the coupler.



In the next photo you can see the slightly smaller size of the coupler with the Kadee Covered Hopper on the right with the 158 coupler and the car on the left with a #5 coupler.



I haven't had any problems with them as I had stated before. My layout was built as a switching layout and I do use the Kadee magnets for uncoupling as some industrial spurs are a fairly long reach and I don't particularly like reaching over scenery. The most important thing is to have the couplers properly adjusted using the coupler height gauge. I am anal about that. One thing that I do before installing Kadee couplers id to take a fine file and file across the front face of the coupler as there can be a bit of flashing on the face. Many of my freight cars have been around for over 30 years and I have had almost no problems at all with them with the exception of a clip holding the coupler on on some of the old blue box kits. If that does happen, a 158 is installed.

 

[Greg@mnrr]

Switchman:

If additional weight solved the problem, consider the problem solved. A little extra weight will not damage any of the rolling stock. If anything, heavier rolling stock will reduce the number of cars a locomotive may be able to pull.

I have several cars that weigh well over the NMRA recommendations.

Thanks.

Greg

 

[csxgandn]

Thanks for the info and photos ,Chet. As I said, at some point I will change all of my couplers so that info is helpful.

Thanks to you too, Greg. At least for the time being i may just add some impermanent weight until I change the couplers and see if f I need the extra weight.

Working six six or seven days a week for a while so I don't know when I'll get to the train store but I'll have some extra money when I finally get there

 

[montanan]

I picked up a couple of bulk packs of the 158's. They are more or less a direct replacement for the #5's.

 

[trailrider]

If possible, try to replace the Snap Switch with a Mark IV (I think they make them in Code 85). The longer couplers on the engine should also help. Another thing to check is whether the screws holding the trucks are too tight. Loosening one a quarter turn or so might also help, as it may allow the body of the car to tip a bit.