Green Mountain Railroad Layout Build
- Thread starter Guilford Railman
- Start date
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I found it much easier, Cleaner, and more direct to buy aluminum screen door screen at the local hardware store. I shape the screen over wood or cardboard, staple down the edges, cover with damp paper towels, and trowels or spread hydrocal "frosting" over it. It sets up literally as hard as a cast, and strong, in about 20 minutes.
Once a person gets used to this method, I guarantee they will not buy another sheet of foam.
I know this not for everyone, but you asked...
Dave LASM
Since I have so much extra foam from this project, I’m inclined to use as much as I can given it was $40 per 4 ft x 8 ft sheet I purchased.
That’s what I was thinking too. My plan is to paint the riverbed black on the bottom to simulate depth and then use some kind of product (woodland scenics realistic water?) to do the water. With the foam being smooth, it should look good. (I hope!)
maybe you could add some rocks and stuff to break up the really straight canal style stream.
but thats just a oppinion.
cheers
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logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
You asked feedback on the foam hills.Not much progress this week unfortunately but I still made progress nonetheless
I applied some plaster on the first section of the layout where the foam board was not level. I’ve applied two coats so far and I may apply a third but we’ll see. It’s definitely an improvement over what it was before.
View attachment 214519
I also applied plaster to the backdrop panel joints and over the screw heads. Needs a few touch ups but it’s nearly there.
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As you can see, I also have begun experimenting with scrap foam boards to create some mountains/hills. I was thinking of using a few pieces to make the backdrop mountains in some areas using a vertical technique vs. layering the boards horizontal. I’m not sure about this idea and have never tried it. Any thoughts or feedback?
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The last thing I did was to finally get the last two screws and finish washers in place. As mentioned in a previous post, I made a boo boo and didn’t position the underlying cross member in a more favorable position leading to the screws not lining up. I managed to fix this by using some shorter screws and carefully re-drilling some holes.
View attachment 214523
I will fill in the old holes with plaster before painting the fascia panels.
I found it much easier, Cleaner, and more direct to buy aluminum screen door screen at the local hardware store. I shape the screen over wood or cardboard, staple down the edges, cover with damp paper towels, and trowels or spread hydrocal "frosting" over it. It sets up literally as hard as a cast, and strong, in about 20 minutes.
Once a person gets used to this method, I guarantee they will not buy another sheet of foam.
I know this not for everyone, but you asked...
Dave LASM
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I’ll play around with it more and see what I can come up with.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I plan to carve and shape it more. You are right tho, definitely too close to the tracks!
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Interesting idea! Definitely one to keep in mind for a future build
Since I have so much extra foam from this project, I’m inclined to use as much as I can given it was $40 per 4 ft x 8 ft sheet I purchased.
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
Thanks for keeping an open mind on this.
One of the old-time members, Montanan, described this method to me. He created his very large layout with this technique, it is a really old school way to do it. I purchase it in 50# quantities from Amazon (it is sold through art supply stores)
It took me a while to get the hang of mixing the hydrocal, but now I can mix batch after batch with total confidence. I usually mix about 8 ounces at a time with one heaping cup of the hydrocal powder and a scant about 1/2 cup of water. Getting the proportions right here is the key.
The greatest benefits are the 1)super quick setting, 2)sets up hard as a rock 3) can be drilled and the hole really holds its shape
One of the old-time members, Montanan, described this method to me. He created his very large layout with this technique, it is a really old school way to do it. I purchase it in 50# quantities from Amazon (it is sold through art supply stores)
It took me a while to get the hang of mixing the hydrocal, but now I can mix batch after batch with total confidence. I usually mix about 8 ounces at a time with one heaping cup of the hydrocal powder and a scant about 1/2 cup of water. Getting the proportions right here is the key.
The greatest benefits are the 1)super quick setting, 2)sets up hard as a rock 3) can be drilled and the hole really holds its shape
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! Sounds like a great technique. If I have the time, I may just need to create a mockup using this technique so I can see firsthand what it looks like
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Just a quick update for this week.
The only thing I managed to get done was some more shaping of the hills/mountains. Originally I had played around with the idea of using the scrap foam pieces in a vertical orientation but after some more thinking, I decided to use them in a horizontal position instead.
I used wood skewers to hold the sections together while carving and shaping the foam.
Still some more shaping to do but it’s coming along! My plan for this coming week is to touchup one more area on the backdrop and then go ahead and paint it. I wanted to get the backdrop and landscape formations completed before laying any track.
The only thing I managed to get done was some more shaping of the hills/mountains. Originally I had played around with the idea of using the scrap foam pieces in a vertical orientation but after some more thinking, I decided to use them in a horizontal position instead.
I used wood skewers to hold the sections together while carving and shaping the foam.
Still some more shaping to do but it’s coming along! My plan for this coming week is to touchup one more area on the backdrop and then go ahead and paint it. I wanted to get the backdrop and landscape formations completed before laying any track.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Not much physical progress this week either but after some thinking on my plans for the week of painting the backdrop, I’ve decided I’d like to go ahead and use printed images instead. I spent several hours over the weekend researching and looking at different websites and have finally settled on one I’ll use for the backdrop around the entire layout. More on that later
In addition to my time spent researching, I did manage a few smaller projects. The first is that I swapped out the hardware on the lift gate pins. The screws weren’t keeping the pins on very tight and were also snagging on the foam boards as the lift gate lowered so I needed to change out the screws to make it work better. I also cut some small grooves in the foam to improve it as well.
I also began working on another piece of terrain located next to the truss bridge. My plan is to have a road adjacent to the track that goes up a slight incline. In real life this street is Canal St in Bellows Falls and the road climbs up the hill along the tracks before crossing over utilizing a concrete bridge. I can’t fit the concrete bridge but the idea will be implied through the rest of the terrain.
Lastly, I took some time to install the NCE power cab panel and throttle pocket onto the fascia.
Not wired in yet of course but I wanted to install it and cross that step off my list. My plan is to install an additional panel and throttle pocket onto the fascia in the opposite corner of the layout. Despite the small size of the layout, the track plan was designed with up to two operators in mind so a second panel is necessary.
I’m hoping in the next week or two I can order the backdrops but it in the meantime, I can begin preparations for track work
In addition to my time spent researching, I did manage a few smaller projects. The first is that I swapped out the hardware on the lift gate pins. The screws weren’t keeping the pins on very tight and were also snagging on the foam boards as the lift gate lowered so I needed to change out the screws to make it work better. I also cut some small grooves in the foam to improve it as well.
I also began working on another piece of terrain located next to the truss bridge. My plan is to have a road adjacent to the track that goes up a slight incline. In real life this street is Canal St in Bellows Falls and the road climbs up the hill along the tracks before crossing over utilizing a concrete bridge. I can’t fit the concrete bridge but the idea will be implied through the rest of the terrain.
Lastly, I took some time to install the NCE power cab panel and throttle pocket onto the fascia.
Not wired in yet of course but I wanted to install it and cross that step off my list. My plan is to install an additional panel and throttle pocket onto the fascia in the opposite corner of the layout. Despite the small size of the layout, the track plan was designed with up to two operators in mind so a second panel is necessary.
I’m hoping in the next week or two I can order the backdrops but it in the meantime, I can begin preparations for track work
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Despite a busy week, I managed to make substantial progress on the layout.
About two weeks ago, I ordered the rest of the track needed for the build, as well as a 5 piece set of the new Walthers foam roadbed. Those items arrived this week.
I have always used cork roadbed for my builds but I wanted to give this product a try. I plan to do a review video soon on my thoughts about it.
The road bed will only be used for the portion of single track mainline that runs between Bellows Falls Yard and Chester, as well as the interchange track connected to the diamond.
However, I needed a way to change between the raised mainline track and the rest of the track. Here is what I’ve come up with:
I’ve carved slight drops in the foam at each end of the mainline portion where each portion connects to the corresponding turnouts. The roadbed will be placed into these areas and allow the trains to “climb” to the raised roadbed.
I also needed to have the raised roadbed to allow the truss bridge to be slightly higher off the riverbed. In order to determine the correct height for this, I had to go ahead and assemble the bridge. Here’s the final result:
Below is a photo of the bridge I’m modeling and the look I’m trying to achieve.
I will most likely need to lower the riverbed a little more but other than that, it should be ready for scenery when the time comes.
As mentioned in my last post, I planned to order the photo backdrop. I have gone ahead and done this. I provided custom measurements to the supplier to allow the addition of certain elements into the images such as roads, rivers, and terrain changes. Not sure when those will be completed but hopefully soon!
My goal for this coming week is to get the roadbed installed and begin track work if possible.
About two weeks ago, I ordered the rest of the track needed for the build, as well as a 5 piece set of the new Walthers foam roadbed. Those items arrived this week.
I have always used cork roadbed for my builds but I wanted to give this product a try. I plan to do a review video soon on my thoughts about it.
The road bed will only be used for the portion of single track mainline that runs between Bellows Falls Yard and Chester, as well as the interchange track connected to the diamond.
However, I needed a way to change between the raised mainline track and the rest of the track. Here is what I’ve come up with:
I’ve carved slight drops in the foam at each end of the mainline portion where each portion connects to the corresponding turnouts. The roadbed will be placed into these areas and allow the trains to “climb” to the raised roadbed.
I also needed to have the raised roadbed to allow the truss bridge to be slightly higher off the riverbed. In order to determine the correct height for this, I had to go ahead and assemble the bridge. Here’s the final result:
Below is a photo of the bridge I’m modeling and the look I’m trying to achieve.
I will most likely need to lower the riverbed a little more but other than that, it should be ready for scenery when the time comes.
As mentioned in my last post, I planned to order the photo backdrop. I have gone ahead and done this. I provided custom measurements to the supplier to allow the addition of certain elements into the images such as roads, rivers, and terrain changes. Not sure when those will be completed but hopefully soon!
My goal for this coming week is to get the roadbed installed and begin track work if possible.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Layout update time!!!
Well as I mentioned in my last post, I planned on starting track work. I changed my mind about this and decided I wanted to have the backdrop completed before doing so. I figured that with using a spray adhesive to secure the photo backdrop, it’s better to wait and install the track afterwards just in case I dripped adhesive on the foam. (Spoiler alert, I did
)
Here is what the layout looks like:
If you look at the image above, you’ll notice that the interchange track goes directly into the trees. This was something I overlooked, oops lol. Anyone have any suggestions to hide the tracks and make it seem like they continue into the distance?
I’m thinking I may model the tunnel portal for the short tunnel through Bellows Falls but I’m not sure.
Having never used a photo backdrop before, let me just say I may have let a few dozen cuss words fly while getting it attached to the hardboard lol. It was particularly tricky joining each image together.
In addition to this, some areas of the foam where slightly higher than others so getting the backdrops applied and aligned properly took some time. I did end up having to overlap some of the images slightly due to the uneven foam. However, with these issues it still turned out better than I expected.
Another task I completed was adhering the Walthers foam track bed to the mainline section of the layout. In the images below, you can see the slight grade that allows the trains to “climb” from yard to mainline and back.
Having adhered the roadbed to the lift gate, I was able to test it with two pieces of flex track. Happy to say that with a slight gap between the rails, the rails clear each other just enough to allow the lift gate to rise up.
Since all this work is completed, I can finally begin track work now without worries of dripping glue or adhesive on the track. I just need to fill in a few tiny holes with plaster first lol.
The last thing I’d like to mention is the river scene with the truss bridge.
I originally wanted to line the entire river with plaster to simulate a smooth concrete surface since the portion I’m modeling is a canal that runs through downtown Bellows Falls and connects to the rest of the river on the other side. However, I did manage to sand the river/canal surface to be VERY smooth. With it smooth, would it be better to just paint the river bed onto the foam or should I continue with my plans to use plaster?
Well as I mentioned in my last post, I planned on starting track work. I changed my mind about this and decided I wanted to have the backdrop completed before doing so. I figured that with using a spray adhesive to secure the photo backdrop, it’s better to wait and install the track afterwards just in case I dripped adhesive on the foam. (Spoiler alert, I did
)Here is what the layout looks like:
If you look at the image above, you’ll notice that the interchange track goes directly into the trees. This was something I overlooked, oops lol. Anyone have any suggestions to hide the tracks and make it seem like they continue into the distance?
I’m thinking I may model the tunnel portal for the short tunnel through Bellows Falls but I’m not sure.
Having never used a photo backdrop before, let me just say I may have let a few dozen cuss words fly while getting it attached to the hardboard lol. It was particularly tricky joining each image together.
In addition to this, some areas of the foam where slightly higher than others so getting the backdrops applied and aligned properly took some time. I did end up having to overlap some of the images slightly due to the uneven foam. However, with these issues it still turned out better than I expected.
Another task I completed was adhering the Walthers foam track bed to the mainline section of the layout. In the images below, you can see the slight grade that allows the trains to “climb” from yard to mainline and back.
Having adhered the roadbed to the lift gate, I was able to test it with two pieces of flex track. Happy to say that with a slight gap between the rails, the rails clear each other just enough to allow the lift gate to rise up.
Since all this work is completed, I can finally begin track work now without worries of dripping glue or adhesive on the track. I just need to fill in a few tiny holes with plaster first lol.
The last thing I’d like to mention is the river scene with the truss bridge.
I originally wanted to line the entire river with plaster to simulate a smooth concrete surface since the portion I’m modeling is a canal that runs through downtown Bellows Falls and connects to the rest of the river on the other side. However, I did manage to sand the river/canal surface to be VERY smooth. With it smooth, would it be better to just paint the river bed onto the foam or should I continue with my plans to use plaster?
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
It was extremely helpful! Thanks for the suggestion.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
He definitely does!Backdrop came out great! Joey makes a nice product.
As for the bridge, you've got the riverbed pretty smooth, I think I would just go with that if it's going to be a canal.
That’s what I was thinking too. My plan is to paint the riverbed black on the bottom to simulate depth and then use some kind of product (woodland scenics realistic water?) to do the water. With the foam being smooth, it should look good. (I hope!)
traiNscale
Well-Known Member
it will look good, but if you see the stream in the backdrop and then look at your streamlined almost perfect straight canal, you maybe think hmmm, this does not match.
maybe you could add some rocks and stuff to break up the really straight canal style stream.
but thats just a oppinion.
cheers
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I forgot to mention that in my post but I do plan on adding rocks towards the end closest to the backdrop
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Uh oh! Problems on the GMRC!!!
So…I overlooked something when working with James Hilton on the layout design and that is the length of the ties around each side of the throw bars on Peco turnouts.
They extend a little too far out and block the planned path of some of the other tracks.
The top photo shows that I have to move the turnout further ahead and add a small section of track in between so the throw bars can fit.
The bottom photo shows one of the compromised track paths. Can these ties be cut and glued to the other side without compromising the turnout?
So…I overlooked something when working with James Hilton on the layout design and that is the length of the ties around each side of the throw bars on Peco turnouts.
They extend a little too far out and block the planned path of some of the other tracks.
The top photo shows that I have to move the turnout further ahead and add a small section of track in between so the throw bars can fit.
The bottom photo shows one of the compromised track paths. Can these ties be cut and glued to the other side without compromising the turnout?
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