Green Mountain Railroad Layout Build
- Thread starter Guilford Railman
- Start date
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Or, use a hole saw.
I spent some time reading more on the topic of hole saws and they seem to be a better fit for what I’m trying to do. I would like a cleaner edge on these cuts so I may purchase a hole saw and cut around the 1” cuts with a 1.5” hole saw.
If you plan on making things, I was pleasantly surprised by how clean my cuts were with the hole saw.
I bought 3 sizes from 7/8 inches to 1 1/2" and they made clean cuts in 1x4 and 2x4 pine lumber. They are even hefty enough to make a 1 1/2" hole in the shipping container, fairly heavy-duty, strong steel.
I only have a few tools, a drill, jig saw, circular saw, angle grinder, and belt sander, but I can make short work of pretty intense projects, I would put the hole saw down as a very handy accessory.
I’ve decided I’m not going to clean up the holes in the cross members with a hole saw but I think I’ll purchase both a hole saw and forstner bit sometime in the near future and get practice using them.
Probably all pretty much moot as GilfordRailman has decided not to care about the splintering as it is not going to be seen.
I have learned over the years to use my drill press for any of the above 3, if possible. Remember to clamp the material to the plate! I have a Bosch 1/2" drive 6 amp gear reduction thing that I was using on framing to cut holes for romax with a hole saw. Ya, standing on my head to do so in places and the thing would jam in the hole on occasion. When that happened, seems that I would press the button to 'keep it running'. You would go for a ride until you had the presents of mind to let go, then it would wind up cord until it un-plugged itself.
It's all fun...right?
I have thought about a drill press! I’ve watched videos and I love the results they produce vs. a typical drill. Might have to invest in one sometime in the near future.
Later
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migalyto
Well-Known Member
Another great tip I didn't know about.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
What does the masking tape do, prevent splinters of wood from coming up?
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I did try that as well and the results improved slightly but there was still some splintering.
migalyto
Well-Known Member
That's what I have heard from woodworkers.
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
Put a scrap 2×4 under the board you are drilling and that will help. When you drill through the 1x3, the board underneath will alleviate the splintering .
Or, use a hole saw.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I was just about to reply to the thread with that same statement. I am thinking of purchasing a hole saw as it seems to be the better choice for this application, at least from some things I’ve read online so far.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I didn’t have a scrap 2 x 4, just another 1 x 3 but it did help alleviate some of the splintering.
I spent some time reading more on the topic of hole saws and they seem to be a better fit for what I’m trying to do. I would like a cleaner edge on these cuts so I may purchase a hole saw and cut around the 1” cuts with a 1.5” hole saw.
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Ya might try a Forstner bit. They do pretty good for small holes. Hole saw bits are getting pretty $$$, needed a couple - 1.5 and 2". For the price paid I think they were gold plated.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I was talking to a colleague who does woodworking and he said next time I want to drill holes, definitely use these!
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Well I made a little progress so far this week! Most of the time was spent measuring, measuring again, drawing and marking lines on the wood, measuring again, and then making a few cuts here and there lol.
It doesn’t help that I’m not that great at math and I’m new to many of the tools I’m working with
Slow and steady is the name of the game here.
It doesn’t help that I’m not that great at math and I’m new to many of the tools I’m working with
Slow and steady is the name of the game here.
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
I've never seen a forstner bit but they look spendy to me.
If you plan on making things, I was pleasantly surprised by how clean my cuts were with the hole saw.
I bought 3 sizes from 7/8 inches to 1 1/2" and they made clean cuts in 1x4 and 2x4 pine lumber. They are even hefty enough to make a 1 1/2" hole in the shipping container, fairly heavy-duty, strong steel.
I only have a few tools, a drill, jig saw, circular saw, angle grinder, and belt sander, but I can make short work of pretty intense projects, I would put the hole saw down as a very handy accessory.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I’ve read about both and they each seem to have pros and cons.
I’ve decided I’m not going to clean up the holes in the cross members with a hole saw but I think I’ll purchase both a hole saw and forstner bit sometime in the near future and get practice using them.
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Dave: Most of the time a forstner bit is used to sink a hole part way through your material. Leaves a flat space with dimple in the center. Those are a tad more expensive. The set I showed was $10, 6 paddle bits $8, as is 6 hole saws. What I have found if you use paddle or hole saw in a hand drill vs drill press you take the chance that you are not holding it at 90 degrees to the material and when you get to where you are about to bust through on the other side, they will either jam in the hole, or catch and splinter the surrounding wood which make the hole look pretty crappy, while the forstner for some reason seems to keep to 90 degrees. The with the hole saw, getting the material out of the thing can be another story, especially if you are cutting something thicker than 1/2". Because forstner's clean out the hole as bigger shavings and force them to the top it is easier to get through the bottom without splintering. Ya, you can screw up with those too, but a little harder. And then the hole saw is a real PITA to sharpen, where as paddle and forstner are much easier. Ya, I know .. for $10 who would bother? There are times when you are in the middle of things and need a sharper bit; it is early in the AM or late at night and you can not run down the local HW store or you don't want to quit in the middle of things. You don't run to the HW store for a new saw chain do you? Just my experience, YMMV.
Probably all pretty much moot as GilfordRailman has decided not to care about the splintering as it is not going to be seen.
I have learned over the years to use my drill press for any of the above 3, if possible. Remember to clamp the material to the plate! I have a Bosch 1/2" drive 6 amp gear reduction thing that I was using on framing to cut holes for romax with a hole saw. Ya, standing on my head to do so in places and the thing would jam in the hole on occasion. When that happened, seems that I would press the button to 'keep it running'. You would go for a ride until you had the presents of mind to let go, then it would wind up cord until it un-plugged itself.
It's all fun...right?
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I figured it wasn’t worth it for an area that will hardly be looked at anyways. It will be hard to see any of the slight damage when wires are filling those spaces too. I’m a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to projects but I’m letting this go lol. (For now, it’s an ongoing battle).
I have thought about a drill press! I’ve watched videos and I love the results they produce vs. a typical drill. Might have to invest in one sometime in the near future.
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
I had a 'floor' model for awhile. Sold that and found a 'bench' model on Craigslist for $20. Needed a new belt so am into it $29. New is/used to be $49 so they are not that bad. If you have a Harbor Freight near, check them out as they are not used in a production line in our case.
Later
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
I have a harbor freight about 15 minutes away. I’ll stop by there one of these days and check it out.
Guilford Railman
Well-Known Member
Made a lot of progress over the course of the past week!
The L-girder sections are screwed together but not glued yet. I wanted to make sure all the modules fit together well before I secured them fully with both glue and screws.
I used clamps to hold each module section together while I verified everything fit. Had to make a few adjustments and shave a bit off here and there but it’s looking great!
The cross members with the holes drilled through are not attached yet as I’m experimenting with the positioning of each piece before finally securing them onto the L-girders.
I still need to build the lift-out section.
I have some ideas on how I’d like to construct it but I’m still working on a design. The benchwork book I purchased a while back also has some good ideas on how to build one.
My goal for the coming week is to disassemble the modules and glue them together before putting the screws back in. Hoping to get the legs constructed too if time allows.
The L-girder sections are screwed together but not glued yet. I wanted to make sure all the modules fit together well before I secured them fully with both glue and screws.
I used clamps to hold each module section together while I verified everything fit. Had to make a few adjustments and shave a bit off here and there but it’s looking great!
The cross members with the holes drilled through are not attached yet as I’m experimenting with the positioning of each piece before finally securing them onto the L-girders.
I still need to build the lift-out section.
I have some ideas on how I’d like to construct it but I’m still working on a design. The benchwork book I purchased a while back also has some good ideas on how to build one.
My goal for the coming week is to disassemble the modules and glue them together before putting the screws back in. Hoping to get the legs constructed too if time allows.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
It looks like you're building a sauna.
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