Cracked axle gears on Proto 2000

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Espeefan said:
Wojo said:
Ridiculous! :rolleyes: They gave away more wheelsets (wheels included, not just the gears) than it would take to re-gear every loco they made, and only over the last year or so started charging for them.

The best fix for these is the OEM gears. Athearn's are slightly different, and are cast, where P2K's are cut. Better quality and the proper gear geometry.
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Alan
Several of my FA's have replacement Proto wheel sets, yes, gotten for free. Guess what, they cracked too!:eek: So far, NONE of the ones with Athearn gears have failed. I don't see or hear anything different in the performance,so why go OEM?
Yes, the Athearn gears are different, most noticably in thickness where the wheels press into them. Thats where the Proto failure begins, out at the wheel, then splits through to the gear!
Click to expand...
 
kbkchooch said:
Espeefan said:
Alan
Several of my FA's have replacement Proto wheel sets, yes, gotten for free. Guess what, they cracked too!:eek: So far, NONE of the ones with Athearn gears have failed. I don't see or hear anything different in the performance,so why go OEM?
Yes, the Athearn gears are different, most noticably in thickness where the wheels press into them. Thats where the Proto failure begins, out at the wheel, then splits through to the gear!
Click to expand...

The original cause for this was an incorrect bore size in the gear. This has long since been taken care of. My own P2K roster consists of SW-9's, SD-9's E-8's, and PA-1's. None have ever had this problem, so I guess that makes me lucky.

The Proto gear geometry is different from the Athearn gears. Oh you can drop them in and they'll work, but you may experience some more than normal noise, and they will wear out sooner. The differences are very small, but they're there.

Proper gear geometry (they are the correct part) and you don't have to use those sintered wheels. That's two good reasons. :D
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Alan
You just reminded me, by E8's still have the original gears,,,,,,guess I was too focused on the 4 axle units. BTW, how do the PA's run? I've been considering trying to search out a pair of D&H units, but so far, no luck. Every one I've found either they want a kings ransom for it or it looks like one of the protortypes,,,,ya know,,,rolled over in a ditch!:eek:
 


I have an ABBA set of SP units, an ABBA set of Warbonnets, and an AB set of UPs. They all run great. I also forgot about the set of E-6s i have. Lettered for the COSF. Not a cracked gear in the lot! The D&H livery was scarce. Good luck finding those for a deal!
 
Espeefan said:
I have an ABBA set of SP units, an ABBA set of Warbonnets, and an AB set of UPs. They all run great. I also forgot about the set of E-6s i have. Lettered for the COSF. Not a cracked gear in the lot! The D&H livery was scarce. Good luck finding those for a deal!
Click to expand...

Just checked fleabay , nary a Proto PA in sight. But I did find a book. A wonderfully non-PC book, thinking about getting it and mailing it to my congressman. :eek:;):D http://cgi.ebay.com/American-Start-...484?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item483e42a5a4 :D:D:D
 
Do the Proto 2000 E-7's also have the cracked gear problem?

I have 2 of these as well.

From what I have read, the bad gear is p/n 584408.

My E-7 manual doesn't list this one gear but rather the assy of wheels and bearings.

The types with bad gears were the BL's, E-8's (not E-7's?), FA 1's and 2's, GP 7's, 9's,
18's, 20's, 30's, and 60's if my info is correct.
 
Espeefan said:
kbkchooch said:
The original cause for this was an incorrect bore size in the gear. This has long since been taken care of. My own P2K roster consists of SW-9's, SD-9's E-8's, and PA-1's. None have ever had this problem, so I guess that makes me lucky.

The Proto gear geometry is different from the Athearn gears. Oh you can drop them in and they'll work, but you may experience some more than normal noise, and they will wear out sooner. The differences are very small, but they're there.

Proper gear geometry (they are the correct part) and you don't have to use those sintered wheels. That's two good reasons. :D
Click to expand...

Do you know if one still get the OEM part for FA-2s? Do they come with the wheels, axles, and gears assembled?
Click to expand...
 


kbkchooch said:
zoegraf said:
Don't forget to check the gage begore you drop them in, the last batch I got were ok, but 2 axles were too wide. A simple twist and push got them to the correct width in a jiffy!
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanks. Did you call them? I haven't been able to find the part on their website. Do you know the part number?

I got a driver-gear-wheel puller from NWSL. The best tool I ever got. I highly recommend it. Here is the part number if your are interested; #55-4 Tool.
I adjusted many wheels with it; mostly on expensive newer locos out of the box!
Click to expand...
 
Do the gear problems also extend to the "newish" Proto 2000 Heritage steam engines? I just bought 3 "new, old stock" ones.
 
The P2Ks with the gold colored boxes are almost guaranteed to crack. The ones in the blue colored boxes not so much. The ones in the gray colored boxes don't have the problem.
 
Huh ????

diburning said:
The P2Ks with the gold colored boxes are almost guaranteed to crack. The ones in the blue colored boxes not so much. The ones in the gray colored boxes don't have the problem.
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????? ... my boxes are all shiny red boxes w/ gold lettering and grey/black foam inside.:confused:
 
AFAIK, Proto 2000 steam didn't have the problem so you should be good.

Life-Like didn't start producing steam for their P2K line until the very end of Like-Like (when Walthers took over). They had fixed the axle gear problem by then.
 
Athearn gears

Well I finally got the Athearn gears. Here is a shot of one to the right of the Proto gear.

I put them on the wheels last week. Diesel works great and runs smoother and slower than ever though has a dry sound to it. I'm wondering if I should grease the gears?
 
You can try, but the noise is likely the result of the different tooth profile of the Athearn gear. Lube will help, but when gears mesh incorrectly, the two most noticeable side effects are:

Noise

Accelerated wear.

The OEM gears are what you should really put in there. Once the other gears in the truck start to wear, you'll have a bigger problem.

Good Luck.
 
I've been using the Athearn gears for years, well before Proto had a good replacement with no problems. May of these locos have lots of time on them, but no mater who's gears you use, lube them with a plastic compatable oil. Labelle makes some fine products for plastic gears. Also lube the outer bearings with a light oil.
Doug
 


It could be as simple as the axle ends were pressed too tightly on the gesrs when assembled. Will the square bearing blocks spin freely, or do they feel tight? If they are tight, loosen up that wheel until the bearings all will move freely. Then reassemble and run the engine again.
 
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