Con-Car Pass. Cars, converting couplers.

[frog]

One thing, the coupler on the E7 front end would have to be long enough for the trip pin to clear the pilot.

Presently a horn hook is on it without the horn.

I'll get in touch with Kaydee this week and try to learn the specifics.

I might elect to go with the McHenry on the cars. They appear to be a simple swap out.

 

[trailrider]

Quote Frog: "One thing, the coupler on the E7 front end would have to be long enough for the trip pin to clear the pilot."

This would be true of virtually all of the Kaydee-style couplers. There are a few ways around the problem: One would be to cut off the trip pin. Of course, this would leave you unable to uncouple cars automatically, but you may not want to do so anyway.

Another way would be to cut away the bottom of the pilot enough so the couple can swing full width. If you get ahold of some photos of E7's you will not that many of them were operated with the coupler doors closed...especially when on the front end of the train, and the front couple tipped up and back (You'd just leave the front couple off, and cement on coupler doors over the operning. OTOH, some whether on the front end, or as a booster (follower), the coupler doors were left open, and the part of the pilot below the closed doors was rotated back so it is virtually invisible from any sort of distance. You'd need to obtain some coupler doors for an E7, and cement them in the open position on either side of the front of the pilot.

So far as Con-Cor passenger cars are concerned, I operate them with the Kaydee couplers mounted on the trucks. That way they will operate around 18" radius curves without any problems...so long as you are pulling the cars. Backing passenger cars with truck-mounted couplers isn't the most reliable thing. You need to be certain the diaphragms between the ends of the cars do NOT touch, especially on the curves. I prefer to use Walthers' with the paper expansion parts and the smooth plastic endplates, which can be gently bent or curved to prevent them from catching on each other. I cement the endplates to the expansion parts and the expansion part to the end of the car with Walther's Goo. Also, it may be necessary to cut off part of the paper expansion part and to compress what's left with a needlenose pliars before cementing. You will still need to back your passenger trains slowly, and it wouldn't hurt at all to add more weight...at least a couple of ounces to each car. Also, I would go with Con-Cor's 72 ft. or Athearn's 72 ft. cars for best results on 18-inch radius track. Eighty-five foot cars will work on 18-in. radius, but if you run them (say a Great Dome), I'd run a shorter car on each end of the longer ones.

 

[diburning]

Instead of clipping off the trip pin, you can use a longer shanked coupler. (#146)

 

[frog]

All my cars are 72 foot or less due to my 18 rad curves. I am happy with the truck mounted couplers as well for the same reason. When I first got the ConCor cars they derailed constantly. I found in half of them the weights were installed too much towards the center of the car instead of over the trucks, so I re-positioned them and also added another weight in between those two. They run great now, no derailing.

As for the E7's if the trip pin extends beyond the pilot I could live with that. I don't want to have to modify the pilot if I can get away from it or clip the trip pin. I'll check on the #146 couplers for the fronts. I don't back my passenger trains at all so no problem there.

 

[trailrider]

All my cars are 72 foot or less due to my 18 rad curves. I am happy with the truck mounted couplers as well for the same reason. When I first got the ConCor cars they derailed constantly. I found in half of them the weights were installed too much towards the center of the car instead of over the trucks, so I re-positioned them and also added another weight in between those two. They run great now, no derailing.

As for the E7's if the trip pin extends beyond the pilot I could live with that. I don't want to have to modify the pilot if I can get away from it or clip the trip pin. I'll check on the #146 couplers for the fronts. I don't back my passenger trains at all so no problem there.

I should have said that using the long-shank coupler you won't have to trim the trip pin on an E7.

What will be interesting to see is whether I'll have to make any adjustments on the Proto2000 E6 to make it into a Burlington E5. Have to add corregated panels to the sides of the shell and slope the headlight back a bit. Haven't looked at the E6 body enough to determine what I will do. I may not get it down to the absolutely correct E5, but I can rationalize it by numbering the beast above the last "Q" E5 and assigning it to my fictious subsidiary, the G.G.& W. That'll be down the road a ways, however, when I get more time.

 

[martin1943]

I'm a complete newbie, hoping that someone will offer an opinion about the Con-Cor 65 ft " branchline, commuter & suburban" cars. Typical stock number is 0001-094212 for a CN coach at $60. Are these a worthwhile product or would I be buying something I'd regret. Help much appreciated, John

 

[trailrider]

I'm a complete newbie, hoping that someone will offer an opinion about the Con-Cor 65 ft " branchline, commuter & suburban" cars. Typical stock number is 0001-094212 for a CN coach at $60. Are these a worthwhile product or would I be buying something I'd regret. Help much appreciated, John

According to the Walthers catalog, these are highly detailed and include interior lighting that works on either DC or DCC. I haven't ordered one yet as I'm debating whether to get an unlettered combine or one lettered for the C.B.& Q, which I model. The reason for ordering the unlettered is to add antennae to represent the presidential communications car that travelled with both FDR and later Harry Truman on the 1948 campaign special. These were unmarked for security reasons.

So far as Con-Cor products are concerned, I've primarily run their 72 ft. shorty streamlined passenger cars, and the Pioneer Zephyr with the 4th car. I regard them as excellent, though for the difference in cost, I could do without the interior lighting. I have no doubt that you will NOT regret the purchase.

 

[Wojo]

I'm a complete newbie, hoping that someone will offer an opinion about the Con-Cor 65 ft " branchline, commuter & suburban" cars. Typical stock number is 0001-094212 for a CN coach at $60. Are these a worthwhile product or would I be buying something I'd regret. Help much appreciated, John

While I do not have the branchline/suburban cars I have six of the ConCor PRR MP54 cars, which are detailed dead on prototypes of the PRR's basic commuter/branchline basic passenger cars. The models are very detailed and run well.

From what I can tell from the ConCor descriptions, the ones you are interested in are similar to the PRR cars, except not built to prototype fidelity.
The observation is far fetched, but unless you are committed to true prototype fidelity, it's no big deal. After all, if you are limited to curves in the 18" - 22" radius range and want passenger trains this is the way to go.

 

[martin1943]

Thank you very much for your comments - greatly appreciated. I do, actually, want to try for a reasonable amount of prototype accuracy. The Con-Cor passenger cars were the only thing I could find from the heavy-weight pre-war era in CN or CP colors. Not sure if I'll confirm my order or not; sure wish I could find something "realistic".

I'm also about to order what I hope will be very accurate cars from Rapido, "The Canadian" 1954 era selection. Then, I'd like to find the pre-war cars I've mentioned and some 1880-1900 passenger cars as well.

I guy could sure spend a lot of time and a lot of money in this hobby!
John

 

[Wojo]

Thank you very much for your comments - greatly appreciated. I do, actually, want to try for a reasonable amount of prototype accuracy. The Con-Cor passenger cars were the only thing I could find from the heavy-weight pre-war era in CN or CP colors. Not sure if I'll confirm my order or not; sure wish I could find something "realistic".

I'm also about to order what I hope will be very accurate cars from Rapido, "The Canadian" 1954 era selection. Then, I'd like to find the pre-war cars I've mentioned and some 1880-1900 passenger cars as well.

I guy could sure spend a lot of time and a lot of money in this hobby!
John

The Rapido Canadien will be completely accurate - and if you are into CP or VIA - worth the cost. I do not believe the cars will be able to run on curves less than 24" - 26" though.