ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I'll bounce another thought here, If you were to bring the face of the pinnacle out so it's base rises from the lake you could really give this peak some emphasis. You could also have the top track siding going into a tunnel (save moving it). It would just mean that the bottom track tunnel entrance may need to be brought forward.
Toot, All good ideas for sure and trust me I ran this scenario through before as well. To do transfering of ore cars, including the loco, I couldn't shorten the upper left track. I have a Climax that stays on the upper level more or less permanently. My Heisler's does the heavy work on the 5 degree grade and leaves and picks up ore cars on the upper left end of the track. Since I have to uncouple by hand/tool I need full access to the upper track, no tunnels.
Also, I will want to use new and different camera angles and shots from my dest area. A bulging rock cliff would interfere with the long shot down the upper track, which is the longest straight run on that side of the layout. Photography is the primary concern in my building, thus I always give priority to land forms allowing important photo opportunities.
Thanks for your input. It will be valuable to those who read all this. Too bad you don't live here in San Diego. Jim
Jim, I have thoroughly enjoyed all 67 pages of this thread as well as the commentary.
What is the elevation change from the pond to the upper track with hopper?
What is the elevation change from upper track to top of mountain above.
The reason I ask is it looks steep but very realistic.
Thanks
Drew
Drew, Thanks for stopping by. Pond to upper track is 6.5 inches. Upper track to top of the cliff is 13 inches. By building logging and mining layouts in small spaces allowing one to have enough track for operations and running can be done by switchbacks. I decided running was important to me thus this redo allowing a loop. Jim
One of the problems with using 'water' products on our layouts is that when you pour them they find the unsealed spots and drip out on to the floor. They all do it and here is the cure.
I use clear silicone sealant around my pond/lake edges. Assuming you use plywood for the bottom of your lake/pond then if you apply clear silicone around the edges you build a barrier to keep the 'water' from creeping. Try it you will like it. The water products blend in with the silicone. Jim
I'm looking at the tube of silicone and see nothing about acids. Coming from the boating world I've used silicone all my life and never heard of acid issues. I use GE waterproof silicone, (kitchen/bath/plumbing). It is ready to go in 3 hours and mold free.
There is no interaction between and of the many 'water' products and this silicone. Once dried and cured (over night) it blends in very nicely with 'water' products. This is much easier way to seal ponds, lakes, streams and river banks. The best thing is it contains the 'creep' common to all 'water' products. Jim
The reason I asked is because there are 2 types of silicones available, the Acetic acid cure and neutral (non-acid) cure. The latter is the one used where there could be a chance of interaction with the product being sealed and is the safest if there is any chance of such occuring. The one you are using, being for use on plumbing etc, would be the neutral cure type.
Wow Jim, i'm on my third cup of tea and second handful of biscuits reading your thread, great reading and very intuitive.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Cheers
Darren
Pom and Toot, Thank you. Good to see our friends from Downunder participating.
Now as promised: A better way to do ponds/lakes?
I think so. First, paint your pond/lake bottom blue. No art stuff here just paint it. Let dry overnight. Second, spray the bottom with spray glue. Move the glue to the sides with your finger.
Third, add fine ground foams to the bottom. Darker first, to show depth, the lighter colors out to the sides. I used brown for the shallows near the shore. You can do this anyway you want. Be sure to blend/overlap your shakes.
Best part is you don't have to be an artist. Darker to lighter, it doesn't get easier, or more realistic when the 'water' is added than this method. Elapsed time from first photo to last 4 minutes. Jim
RRunner, No problem. Ground foams are a generic term for the wall of ground covering foam bits for coloring your terrain at your LHS. Looking at the name of these items I guess I should have used the word 'turfs.' Jim
I'm mentally trying to figure out how to build a small pond that will accompany the retaining wall for the water wheel on my mill. I think I see where this lesson fits- it will add depth to the murkiness of the pond.
The scenic cement Jim, is that a "white" glue (PVA) of the type that can be thinned with water, as I note you say to move it to the sides with your finger, not something you could do with a contact cement.
Reason for asking is because I can't say I've seen a spray variety here (although easy enough to thin a bit if it's that type and put into a pump spray bottle) apart fom the rubber contact variety.
RR130, I figured you had it. The great thing about turfs is that you can blend them for many color combinations. No fuss, no muss. For murky ponds brown and burnt grass colors are best. Jim
Toot, I don't see PVA listed on the WS Spray Glue. I have only used this product since I started model railroading. An alternative I've heard about is diluting Elmer's white glue about 50/50 with water. It is a cheaper alternative. I'm not sure if it clogs sprayers any more than WS Spray Glue does. I think the important part here is that you need a white glue that is water soluable and dries clear. There must be more than one brand in Oz. Jim
Here's the first pour of Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. I will probably do three pours. When this is all dry it will look great. I don't like the Magic Water and other two-part 'waters' because they are crystal clear. Realistic Water has some opaque quality that I find more appealing. Jim
Here is an update/progress photo I took yesterday. I love small streams and creeks. Here a photo of the outflow from the lake in the middle background without water in it. This photo is not complete yet either. Just thought I would take this photo. Jim
