Benchwork dilemma

[dgrafix]

One other thing I forgot to mention -

Bow schmoo -

Who needs sub road bed ...............

Eeeek I think I would soil myself every time my train looped

 

[wombat457]

Fortunately, it wont be staying that way BUT, this does go to show what GOOD track will withstand because very little else comes into play here

 

[bnsf971]

I'll go along with suggesting 3/8" ply. It's thin enough to be flexible-ish, but strong enough to hold any trains O gauge and under. I'll add "when properly supported" after viewing that video...

 

[wombat457]

I'll add "when properly supported" after viewing that video...

What - no sense of humour Terry

What that video is suppose to do is a couple of things:

1. To establish the solidity of the trackwork joins,
2. To establish electrical conductivity between each length of flex track and turnouts, and
3. To demonstrate how little is needed to support "good track".

 

[Smudge617]

What - no sense of humour Terry

What that video is suppose to do is a couple of things:

1. To establish the solidity of the trackwork joins,
2. To establish electrical conductivity between each length of flex track and turnouts, and
3. To demonstrate how little is needed to support "good track".

You also forgot to mention how fearless (nuts) the operator is.

But seriously, I wish I had the confidence in my track work that you have, seems I have another skill I need to learn, I've never had much success when it comes to soldering track together myself.

 

[Lynnb]

have you considered using open grid benchwork? Basicly make your grids using 1x4 spruce kind of like building a studded wall but with wider spanded interior studs, make legs also out of 1x4 in an L shape, mount Against wall and support with legs , get a sheet of plywood ( doesn’t have to be 3/4” ) lay it on top of grid and trace out your trck roadbed , jig out the roadbed and whats left over can be used for area support. This would be typical for an around the wall setup.

 

[wombat457]

Lynn - if your talking to me, all of my layouts (permeant type) are built on Open Grid and Cookie Cutter bench work. This little thing started life as a simple oval test track for my engines - mainly to find out which engines I had that were DC and which were DCC, it ate too much and subsequently grew a little

Now it looks as though it will be incorporated into my "proper layout" which is being put together a section at a time

 

[Lynnb]

Lynn - if your talking to me, all of my layouts (permeant type) are built on Open Grid and Cookie Cutter bench work. This little thing started life as a simple oval test track for my engines - mainly to find out which engines I had that were DC and which were DCC, it ate too much and subsequently grew a little

Now it looks as though it will be incorporated into my "proper layout" which is being put together a section at a time

No Tomy i was directing my comments to the Op , I’ve already got you messed up enough.

 

[wombat457]

You also forgot to mention how fearless (nuts) the operator is.

But seriously, I wish I had the confidence in my track work that you have, seems I have another skill I need to learn, I've never had much success when it comes to soldering track together myself.

I have come to learn that soldering is a fairly important part of the hobby and was terrified of it at first. BUT, once I started and figured it out, it was easy and VERY beneficial. I can give you some pointers if you want that might help a little to get you up and running ?

 

[wombat457]

No Tomy i was directing my comments to the Op , I’ve already got you messed up enough.

Yep - to BOTH points

 

[Dim....]

I am planning my benchwork, and was shocked at the price and availability of wood at Home Depot and Lowes in Sacramento, Ca. Lowe's had no 3/4" plywood. HD had birch 3/4", but only in 5 ply, for $85. No pine at either store, but HD had whitewood which looked like cheap pine.
I have a 10' x 12' room, HO, min 24" curves, around the room 30" deep, with a 2nd level of 12" - 18" deep shelf.
My benchwork frame was going to be L girder tables, with the 3/4" plywood on top. I will need 6 benches, frame work approximately 24" x 5' - 6' long, about 41" tall.
Is there anything better than wood for a frame? Maybe 1" steel square tube or aluminum?
The price for the wood would put me over $1000, seems quite expensive.

Ok, thank you for all the replies. 3/4" is out now, thinking of 1/2", maybe even 3/8", but putting 1" foam on top, then the 1/4" roadbed. But... that adds up to 1 3/4" total thickness. The regular pl 1001 and pl 10e's only have a 1" length for the turnout control. Do I have to use something else for the few turnouts that need them? Maybe I should just use 1/2" ply with the roadbed and no foam. But then there would be no foam for the scenery..... So frustrating just trying to get started.

 

[PMW]

PL 10-E is the same thing but gives you an extended pin. Not sure how long it is but maybe it will suit you

 

[PMW]

Sorry I misunderstood. I have a min of 3" of foam and 5" in one place. I use the regular pl10. I just cut a hole for it right through everything.

 

[TLOC]

I am planning my benchwork, and was shocked at the price and availability of wood at Home Depot and Lowes in Sacramento, Ca. Lowe's had no 3/4" plywood. HD had birch 3/4", but only in 5 ply, for $85. No pine at either store, but HD had whitewood which looked like cheap pine.
I have a 10' x 12' room, HO, min 24" curves, around the room 30" deep, with a 2nd level of 12" - 18" deep shelf.
My benchwork frame was going to be L girder tables, with the 3/4" plywood on top. I will need 6 benches, frame work approximately 24" x 5' - 6' long, about 41" tall.
Is there anything better than wood for a frame? Maybe 1" steel square tube or aluminum?
The price for the wood would put me over $1000, seems quite expensive.

There is a very Easy solution to your dilemma about the framework for YOUR layout. Build with what you are comfortable working with. You can use 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 or 3/4” plywood. You can use 1x4, 1x3 2xx2 for framework. You are not walking on the layout and legend has it that model railroaders tend to over build framework. They all are able to be used with good and proper support. Buy what YOU and YOUR skills can handle.

What I did in 2014 and in builds (including commission work) since is 1x3’s cut from 1/2” 5 ply plywood 4’x8’ sanded one side (not needed). I now build open frame but I have built with L-girder and it was fine but it seemed to be more work and not as sturdy IMO. For the base I use 2” pink foam, with cork road bed.

No need to over spend or over build BUT the frame is the base of a good layout. Have fun and let us know how it goes

 

[Dim....]

Sorry I misunderstood. I have a min of 3" of foam and 5" in one place. I use the regular pl10. I just cut a hole for it right through everything.

So the pl 10 just hooks straight to the turnout? That's a big hole then, but easy through the foam.

 

[PMW]

So the pl 10 just hooks straight to the turnout? That's a big hole then, but easy through the foam.

Yes the pl 10 can be attached directly to the turnout. it's a big hole in the roadbed but with foam putty and other scenery I think it will be alright. You can check out my build thread, there maybe some pics of turnouts that will give you a better idea (link is in the signature)