Benchwork dilemma

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


D

Dim....

New Member
I am planning my benchwork, and was shocked at the price and availability of wood at Home Depot and Lowes in Sacramento, Ca. Lowe's had no 3/4" plywood. HD had birch 3/4", but only in 5 ply, for $85. No pine at either store, but HD had whitewood which looked like cheap pine.
I have a 10' x 12' room, HO, min 24" curves, around the room 30" deep, with a 2nd level of 12" - 18" deep shelf.
My benchwork frame was going to be L girder tables, with the 3/4" plywood on top. I will need 6 benches, frame work approximately 24" x 5' - 6' long, about 41" tall.
Is there anything better than wood for a frame? Maybe 1" steel square tube or aluminum?
The price for the wood would put me over $1000, seems quite expensive.
 


Sorry BUT, I think you need to rethink your strategy, a lot.

Your going to go the L Girder route right? In that case, your bench wok surface is only essentially going to be supporting your track work and trust me, your track work (road bed and track) doesn't probably need anything more than 1/4" ply to support it. As such, 1/2" ply would be plenty strong enough for your needs. And that, is going to be a darn sight cheaper than steel.

I would suggest you use 1" X 3" Pine for your framing using 16" centers with the 1/2" ply on top of it. If you want to save money on something, find something else to save it on as your benchwork is what will support everything else so that ISN'T the place to take short cuts or skimp.
 
I'm with @wombat457 1/2" or 1/4" ply would suffice, unless your intending to put lots of very heavy structures I'd go with 1/4".

I went with 3/4", and regret that decision, next time it's 1/4" for me.
 
Found some other folks that use 1/4" ply and 1" blue board in a sandwich. Probably what I am going to do also with the plywood on top to handle spikes. They state that they can stand on it with 16" centers - hmmm, don't know about that but suspect 12" centers would allow standing. Besides, how much weight do you really need to handle with MRR's? 12" center only adds 2 boards per 8 foot so that is not a big deal. They are also using 1x2's for the top plates and bracing with 2x2's for the legs where needed. Makes for a pretty light weight and inexpensive bench as compared to the 1KLb pallet holders some people come up with. To each their own!

Later
 


Dim.... said:
I am planning my benchwork, and was shocked at the price and availability of wood at Home Depot and Lowes in Sacramento, Ca. Lowe's had no 3/4" plywood. HD had birch 3/4", but only in 5 ply, for $85. No pine at either store, but HD had whitewood which looked like cheap pine.
I have a 10' x 12' room, HO, min 24" curves, around the room 30" deep, with a 2nd level of 12" - 18" deep shelf.
My benchwork frame was going to be L girder tables, with the 3/4" plywood on top. I will need 6 benches, frame work approximately 24" x 5' - 6' long, about 41" tall.
Is there anything better than wood for a frame? Maybe 1" steel square tube or aluminum?
The price for the wood would put me over $1000, seems quite expensive.
Click to expand...
Have you considered chipboard. Its usually half the price of ply. MDF would likely work too, but is soooo heavy.
I just bought 1cm thick chipboard to glue my foam bed to for my shelf layout (much cheaper than actual shelves) but i am doing N scale so dont need it to be thick (probably overboard at that), if well framed i imagine 1cm (a third-ish of an inch) would be ample.
 
wombat457 said:
Probably should have qualified that by saying - I add a layer of foam, 1 or 2" to it for the scenery.
Click to expand...
Disregard that - I forgot you were doing an L Girder bench work. IF you are worried about warping then 1/2" ply will work with no issues, anything thicker than that will cause you issues IF you intend having grades. By that I mean, the 3/4" wont bend as well to create the grade.
 
I used 1/4 in OSB with 1/2" homasote on top all on 16" center 1 x 4 Even used some homasote by itself on 1 x 2
Made two helix same way no problems
never had a sag anywhere was up for may years
So unless you are going to be climbing on it 3/4" is way overkill
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0576.JPG
    DSC_0576.JPG
    338.1 KB · Views: 206
  • DSC_0577.JPG
    DSC_0577.JPG
    238.5 KB · Views: 198
  • DSC_0578.JPG
    DSC_0578.JPG
    234.3 KB · Views: 187
  • DSC_0579.JPG
    DSC_0579.JPG
    331.7 KB · Views: 203
As @MikeGTW has said, 3/4 ply (or anything) is way way over kill. There will be nothing you will put on your layout that needs THAT much support, unless it is you :)

I stand by what I and others have said - 1/2" ply with 16" centers is your BEST option for your bench work in L Girder or Open Grid which is what my bench work is.
 
Sounds like some folks might be demanding that you do your benchwork their way.
I would recommend you do some benchwork with a few of the recommendations then see for yourself what is practical and what doesn't work in your application.
Myself, I used 3/4" plywood for the whole roadbed. It bends where I want it to bend. Transitions are realistic and gradual because 3/4" doesn't bend that sharply.
 
I didn’t use 1/4” or 1/2” ply, I went with 3/8”.
Its plenty strong and has enough give for an incline should you need.
Sounds like you’re doing your homework before diving in, gold star for you!
 


You must log in or register to reply here.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top